Ignition Control Module problem
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Ignition Control Module problem
I have a 92' Camaro. About a month ago my car wouldn't start in the morning. It would turn over but wouldn't crank(if thats the way to say it...made noise like it was cranking but never started). We replaced the spark plug coil and the ignition control module. This worked fine, for about a week. One morning it took maybe 10 seconds to crank..i figured it was because it hadn't been run in a week(spring break). The car cranked and it drove for maybe about 10 seconds before turning off in the middle of the road. We replaced the ignition controle module, thinking that was the problem again. The first replacement part, compared to that one, was shakey..so we thought it was just a bad part. That one worked fine for about 2 weeks or so. Today as i was trying to drive home from school it wouldn't crank..so my question is does anyone know why the Ignition Controle modules keep breaking? Is it just bad luck that the two new ones we bought were bad or would something else cause them to burn out?
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"Turn over" and "Crank" mean the same thing. If the starter will engage and spin the engine, it is "turning over" or "cranking." The term "crank" has its basis in early automotive dialect, back when many engines were started (turned over) by inserting a crank handle in the front of the crankshaft and manually spinning the engine to start it. That was before electric starters were common, and back when broken thumbs and sprained wrists were more common. I still have one tractor like that.
"Firing" is intermittent or constant ignition of the fuel mixture, which may or may not cause the engine to run. Sometimes "firing" leads to backfire or afterfire without running the engine.
By your description, the engine would crank, and fire, but not run.
You mentioned that "We replaced the ignition controle module, thinking that was the problem again. The first replacement part, compared to that one, was shakey..so we thought it was just a bad part." How did you determine the part was "shakey?" If you suspected the ignition amplifier/switch module, you could have tested it. Since the replacement "solved" the problem, it may not be the reason that the engine will not start now. Some diagnosis needs to occur before you can conclude that the switching module has failed.
Is there spark to the plugs when cranking the engine?
Is the fuel pump running? Producing pressure?
"Turn over" and "Crank" mean the same thing. If the starter will engage and spin the engine, it is "turning over" or "cranking." The term "crank" has its basis in early automotive dialect, back when many engines were started (turned over) by inserting a crank handle in the front of the crankshaft and manually spinning the engine to start it. That was before electric starters were common, and back when broken thumbs and sprained wrists were more common. I still have one tractor like that.
"Firing" is intermittent or constant ignition of the fuel mixture, which may or may not cause the engine to run. Sometimes "firing" leads to backfire or afterfire without running the engine.
By your description, the engine would crank, and fire, but not run.
You mentioned that "We replaced the ignition controle module, thinking that was the problem again. The first replacement part, compared to that one, was shakey..so we thought it was just a bad part." How did you determine the part was "shakey?" If you suspected the ignition amplifier/switch module, you could have tested it. Since the replacement "solved" the problem, it may not be the reason that the engine will not start now. Some diagnosis needs to occur before you can conclude that the switching module has failed.
Is there spark to the plugs when cranking the engine?
Is the fuel pump running? Producing pressure?
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From: E.B.F. TN
Car: Tree Huggers
Engine: Do Not
Transmission: Appreciate Me.
IF that is the problem again... I'd ask how you installed it and with what...
OTOH, a long crank like that before a start sometimes means the fuel pump relay is toast and your oil pressure switch is waiting for the requisite oil pressure before powering the fuel pump. IOW, it could just be coincidental to your problems. Start by getting your current ignition module tested, then put it, or it's replacement in correctly and if you still have problems thenceforth, start the troubleshooting procedure. It does help to have a haynes and chilton manual as they can help get you going so you can come back here with the pertinent info we need to help out a little better.
hth.
Originally Posted by Red Devil
I've found that most of the modules are comparable.
Since we are on this discussion, I always feel the need to add this in as I constantly see people doing this.
Do NOT use dielectric grease under the module, use the right stuff, thermal heatsink compound. Many of the box store ones come with the dielectric crap. What you want is the white or silver colored stuff.
Wells part # SL-203. And make sure the parts boys give you both tubes in the box, lately I've had the parts boys pulling out one tube from the box and trying to charge me the full price. It should be two tubes in the Wells box, IIRC blue and white box.
Since we are on this discussion, I always feel the need to add this in as I constantly see people doing this.
Do NOT use dielectric grease under the module, use the right stuff, thermal heatsink compound. Many of the box store ones come with the dielectric crap. What you want is the white or silver colored stuff.
Wells part # SL-203. And make sure the parts boys give you both tubes in the box, lately I've had the parts boys pulling out one tube from the box and trying to charge me the full price. It should be two tubes in the Wells box, IIRC blue and white box.
hth.
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