Ive been struggling with this code 32 for sometime now. the EGR seems to work fine when warmed up. i know this because i have warmed the car up then disconnected the battery to clear the codes, then checked that there are no codes once reconnecting the battery. it drives fine with no sign of the SES light.

BUT when i start the car when cold, BANG - on goes that bastard SES light saying code 32. also, when i pull the codes with the paperclip when the engine is cold, there is a strange whirling type of noise coming from the engine bay. kind of hard to pinpoint but i think its coming from the EGR valve or that area.

i had the egr and relay checked by a mechanic about 2 months ago and they didnt seem to think anything was wrong with it and all vacuum lines are supposedly fine.

so would this be the relay thats buggered? or maybe the valve jammed on either open or closed? could this also cause a code 44 that occasionally rears its ugly head?

 

im not trying to be cold or anything..

but could be as simple as buy the egr valve,
replace it, check to see if it works.
if not go return it, if its solved keep the parts
and pay the money

 

that WOULD be a good idea but its not like i can get one at a local auto store cos they dont carry american car parts. i have to order them so i want to get it right first time.

 

Check the EGR vacuum solenoid. You should be ablew to read 35-50 ohms resistance. Also check the EGR diagnostic sensor (on the base of the EGR). If it is low resistance on a cold startup, the ECM can interpret that as a system malfunction. AFAIK, that's about the only way an EGR code can be set when cold.

 

My IAC is pretty noisy.Not sure if it is supposed to be that way.
Probably not,since the idle is pretty jumpy with ac on.

 

i would have to look in a book to be certain, but i believe your car has an EGR valve temp sensor on it.
if you do have it & the EGR temp sensor is telling the ECM the EGR valve is open then it would set the code.
thats the only thing i can think of that would kick a EGR code on a cold motor.

 

thanks denn shah. if you get a chance to check that it would be great and if you could let me know where to find the sensor (if it has one) that would be even better.

 

No need to check that. He just told you the same thing that I told you two posts earlier. Your diagnostic sensor is mounted to the base of the EGR valve:



If you want the complete rundown, you can follow this procedure:

 

Oh. I forget that you're in Perth. Your's may look more like this -

 

i guess i should have read what everyone else had said before i posted,

go through the test that Vader posted & you'll have your fix

 

thanks guys. sorry vader, i wasnt sure what the diagnostic sensor was and temp sensor sounded so much easier

and ha ha @ the upside down pic. hmmmm, everything here appears to be the right way up.... or maybe im just upside down too? my cars got a mirror conversion to RHD so pics are always a good thing

 

The first thing to check would be to see if the solenoid is sending vacuum to the valve when cold. Then when warm is it sending vacuum. It should only get vacuum when warm, in drive, while powerbraking. You shouldn't have to give it much gas. Check to see if you have vacuum to the solenoid. And if you have a high impedence test light, check to see if the solenoid is getting the ground signal from the computer and the power signal. Put manifold vacuum to the valve and see if the engine stumbles or dies. It sounds like a solenoid related problem.