i've got a compxe268 and the same crane lifters. If that's what you were asking?


I honed it out.... how long should that take? I seemed to get a nice crosshatch rather quickly... it's kinda tricky pouring your lubricant with one hand, slowly, while holding the trigger on the drill at *just* the right speed, above stall, but not going super fast, then pushing the drill in and pulling it out, all at the same time....Kinda like the pat your head rub your belly sorta deal...
I think I got 'er done though.
I'm going to scrub the block clean tommorow, if it'll warm up, it was rainy and cool, so I didn't think it'd dry nicely.
I cleaned off the tops of the pistons, wire wheels and scotchbrite, then parts cleaner to wash it off. I'm going to use a felt bob and some metal polish and my dremel too... Probably sand it with 400 grit first to get rid of the cut marks on the top of the piston (machining marks, not my wire wheel marks...)


here's another q though, is it normal to have scuffing wear on the skirts of the pistons? I figured it was pretty early for that kinda wear.

 

Scuffs on the piston skirts are normal, don't worry about them, and don't get too carried away with polishing the piston tops. Clean off the carbon and call it good. Oh, and if I were you I'd install a magnetic oil pan plug just to gather up the small stuff. You'd probably be surprised with how much metal "fuzz" it will have on it after the first 1000 miles or so.

 

Yea, i think i'll also toss some of these incredibly strong "super rare earth magnets" in too. Maybe put one in the lifter valley, and one in a corner of the pan.

 

I'd think twice about putting a magnet in the lifter valley. There's a lot of vibration in an engine, so it may just migrate to some place that you don't want it to be....

If you feel that the drain plug magnet is not going to be enough, then just put an extra magnet on the outside of the oil pan near the drain plug. I think that it's best to be able to see, and then remove any metal that ends up in the pan.

You could always remove the external magnet after the initial break-in.

 

A rare earth magnet won't be going anywhere with vibration, they're hard enough to pry off with your fingers. It could be epoxied in place either way. A drain plug magnet should be fine though.

 

I was cleaning out the oil pan last night, and was cleaning a lot of gunk out of it... I know a bunch of it was metallic sludge, some was like moly lube, and some was chunks... Little pieces of metal maybe? Some felt like hard plastic though...? Anyway yea, these magnets are incredibly strong, but i'll epoxy it in place anyway, in my lifter valley, and one on the underside of my oil pan.

 

All that metal would have gone through your oil pump too. Might want to pull the cover off and have a quick check inside there.

 

ok. I'll post a pic, as I probably won't know good from bad looking at it.. Unless it's TOTALLY gibbled.

 

Not much to check really, check the clearance between the lobes on the rotors and between the rotors and the case, make sure there's no scoring, etc.

 

Even then, a new oil pump isn't that expensive. If you're concerned with it, just get a new one.

 

double post.

 

shoot, forgot to do this today, i'll get that (the oil pump) tommmorow.

scrubbed the block clean, and dried it in the sun, while wiping it down with paper towel... That was dumb, got paper towel hair everywhere...
Tried coffee filters... i'll be damned, thanks sofakingdom!

-Realized my outer starter bolt mounting hole, had a crack in it before, and I tried to weld it, guess I didn't do a good enough job, its more pronounced now. I'm going to grind the crack to a "V", and reweld it.

-I'm also going to re-paint the block, using some spray primer, then brush on tremclad "international red" farm equipment paint.

-I don't think I honed it long enough, it's just kinda scratched, but still pretty smooth and not cross hatched enough. I'm going to give it a few more passes per cylinder. **How long should it take per cylinder? 20 seconds? 3 minutes? 5 passes up and down?**

oh, and I gotta fight one of my freeze plugs still, and try and get that sucker out... I drove it in, and mangled it, now it's hard to wiggle out...

anyway, if anyone thinks of any tips or other things I should do, nows the time, i've got a long weekend and no parts to put on it so...

thanks

 

Sure wish you had got a pic of that for all of the people who think an engine with a new cam with rounded lobes just needs another new cam ...
Can you see now why it would be "small-block suicide"?

 

Be careful with the cylinder hone..... 10 - 15 seconds per hole should be enough. Move with a full length stroke in and out two or three times per hole. The idea is just to break the glaze and be left with a cross-hatch pattern. Use a light oil on the stones and surfaces, and then wipe the surfaces clean.

 

damn! oops, shoulda gotten a pic of that....

hmm, then I should be done with honing, that's what I did before.. hmm, maybe i'll just run that much again...

 

I agree with this. If you are not using chrome rings all you need is a bore that is not a mirror finish. I've done many re-ring jobs (with iron and moly rings) that all I did was use some 400 paper & oil with my hand to scuff used bores so they weren't shiny. All had no blowby and excellent oil control. Most "break-in problem" stories are from people who didn't check the ring gap or the actual bore size on a rebuild.

 

Sonix what did you use to weld the cracked boss? MIG or did you use a "stick" welder?

If you're using a stick-type, you can make your life a whole lot easier by using some stainless rod, like a 6010 or 6013.


I just got mine back from the machine shop, I should post pics for the cyl. hone.

 

I used a stick, with some cast iron rods. They're mostly nickel I think.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...hlight=cracked
that's the post I made before, vader gave me some tips on that. I'm gonna start on that today, then paint the block when i'm all done.