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Polyurethane bushing installations

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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 06:41 PM
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steve's Z28's Avatar
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Polyurethane bushing installations

Hey Guys, I've got a '91 Camaro Z28 with a 700R4 automatic transmission. I have done some searches on this site about replacing the transmission mount and torque arm bushings, but haven't seen how to do them with a floorjack. My first question is: How do I replace the transmission mount bushing with a floor jack? Where would I lift the the transmission, at the pan or some other place?
Second: Do I have to buy the secondary transmission mount bushings from Energy Suspension part number 3.1109G? I have the transmission mount part number 3.1108G and the torque arm bushings. Will this transmission mount fit? I read another thread that a person had to drill out bigger holes on the trans mount crossmember to accomodate Energy Suspension to prevent the threads on the mount from getting stripped. Do I have to make any modifications?
Third: Replacing the bushings on the torque arm. Do I have to take down the whole torque arm, or can I just separate it from the transmission end without undoing it at the rear end and remove it that way?

I plan on installing these parts on Tuesday, any ideas and advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 07:06 PM
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Sonix's Avatar
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
I can't help ya all the way, but here's what i've got:

jack up the car and put stands under the rear end and front a-arms, get it up nice and high to make things easy.

There are 2 13mm or 15mm head bolts holding the torque arm clamshell together. Remove that, and maybe even remove the torque arm to tranny, mount. I had to do that, then drill out some rivets to remove the stock rubber mount. No big deal. Then just use the supplied lube to grease up the end of the torque arm, and slide the new mount over the end of the torque arm. Then put the torque arm clamshell back together, and slide the poly mount to the right distance back, and bolt it all back together. Once you unbolt the torque arm, you'll be fighting the force of the rear coil springs. You've got so much mechanical advantage though (4' of torque arm vs 3" for the springs), that it isn't exactly a difficult fight.

So that's pretty easy.

Tranny mount- with the rest of that stuff reconnected, put a floor jack under the tranny tailshaft, and unbolt the single 15mm nut connecting the mount to the cross member, then the 13mm or 15mm head bolts holding the cross member up. The tranny is held to the motor, so you just have to hold up the tailshaft to keep the motor and trans from tipping backwards. You don't have to worry about balancing it on the floor jack or anything. Once the cross member is out of the way, the stock mount should be bolted to the tranny via 2 13mm head bolts I think. With lock washers IIRC. Remove those, put on the new mount. Then bolt the cross member to the mount, then the cross member to the frame rails.

Notes:
-clamping the torque arm clamshell over the mount was kinda tricky, you gotta hold it clamped and get the bolts started. I used a c-clamp to help.
-you'll probably have to play with the amount of lift you put on the tailshaft, not a big deal.
-the tranny crossmember bolts are notroious for being crap. Thing is, these M8 (I think) bolts, thread into a very soft metal insert in the frame rails. You'll probably have no threads left when you do yours here, so maybe you'll get lucky, but I wasn't. I tried drilling out larger, but there wasn't enough meat left unless I went VERY large. I just got some 3/8"-16 1"long socket capscrews, and used a telescoping magnet to drop the bolts through from the top, so the threads hung out of the holes. Then used some gr8 flange nuts to hold the x-member up.

I don't know about the part #'s for your app.

Hope that helps.
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