Torquing Over
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From: Detroit, MI
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: LT1 350
Transmission: T56 6 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LSD
Torquing Over
Can someone explain to me what the term "Torquing Over" means?
I heard it come up in a few conversations before and I am curious to know what the affects of torquing over are?
Thanks,
Jay
I heard it come up in a few conversations before and I am curious to know what the affects of torquing over are?
Thanks,
Jay
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: May 2005
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From: Detroit, MI
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: LT1 350
Transmission: T56 6 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LSD
I was reading an article a few days ago that had a list of tips to keep your car performing at its best. I believe the tip said something like " To keep your engine from torquing over buy a turnbuckle and attach one side to the driver side of the engine and the other to frame or motor mount".
Jay
Jay
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Clearwater, FL
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Ehh, they are meaning the motor moving while being revved.
Rev your motor from underhood, watch as it 'rocks' back and forth, thats the motor torqueing.
Rev your motor from underhood, watch as it 'rocks' back and forth, thats the motor torqueing.
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Arab, Alabama
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 4BBL
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Here's a more in depth answer: As the motor tries to turn the driveshaft clockwise, it tries to move in the opposite direction. Since the torque of the crank is multiplied by the torque converter (2:1) and multiplied by the transmission's first gear (3:1), the torque that is trying to move the engine in the opposite direction can be enormous. The "normal" 300HP engine will produce 300 ft-lbs of torque, the torque converter multiplies this to 600 and the transmission multiplies this to 1800 ft-lbs of torque. This is enough to pull the drivers side motor mount in two as the engine/transmission tries to rotate in the opposite direction. This happens when the engine is reved up and dropped in gear or the clutch is dumped with good tires that don't spin. The turnbuckle gives the engine something besides the motor mount to pull against when it tries to "torque over".
Now do the math on a "souped-up" engine... neat huh?
Now do the math on a "souped-up" engine... neat huh?
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Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: May 2005
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From: Detroit, MI
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: LT1 350
Transmission: T56 6 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LSD
Thanks for the info. I think I'll go and buy that turnbuckle since I will be shooting for over 300hp.
Jay
Jay
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From: Dallas/Fort-Worth
Car: 1988 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI (L98)
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.45
You won't need a turnbuckle for a long while. Maybe when you are making 600ft/lbs at the crank. The stock system with rubber or polyurethane has held up for more HP than that. Check out the cars running turbos, blowers, or superchargers to see what they are running. You will notice that most are not using anything but the factory setup and poly mounts.
The thing I would be most worried about with 400+ ft/lbs of torque is the frame system. Make sure that you are running sub-frame connectors and strut tower braces when possible. The third gen frame system isn't the best for race cars, especially verts.
The thing I would be most worried about with 400+ ft/lbs of torque is the frame system. Make sure that you are running sub-frame connectors and strut tower braces when possible. The third gen frame system isn't the best for race cars, especially verts.
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