i drive my car for a few minutes if that and i get the engine light. code 44 meanign im running lean.

fuel pump
fuel pressure regulator
vacuum leak

what else could be my problem or what is most likely because besides slight hesitation in 1st and reverse car drives fine

its a 1986 trans am v8 5.0 automatic with AC TPI Fuel injected

 

seriously 14 people and no one has anything to say or suggest?

 

some other things that can cause a lean code are dirty injectors, MAF sensor problems, an air leak between the MAF sensor & throttle body.

 

ok great thanks i'll look there too

 

still having major lean problems any other suggestions?

 

How long has this been going on? Did you do any air delivery mods just prior to it starting? Have you checked the voltage on the injectors or visually seen them deliver fuel? One thing you could do is change the plugs and monitor them (remove daily) to try to determine if it's engine wide or narrow it down to certain cylinders. I had a WS6 lean out a piston on me.

 

going on for like 2months. barely get to drive the project car always so busy. and car is either parked or in a few pieces tryign to make modifications.

not car runs like real crap worse than before.

im takign it to a shop if i can drive it that far.

i heard two plastic pops and i put it back.

still takes a lil while to keep it running on a cold start. it will finally idle buy itself and warm up and be ok in park.

but now i try to drive it and feels like im driving a v2 not a v8

has tons of new things.

but i tested teh resistance on teh injectors i could easly access.

16 ohms every time.

how the heck can i visual see tehm squirt fuel?

im jsut gona let the shop tell me im soooo frustrated with this thing.

i wanted to fix up the body and interior. i have no interest rebuilding an engine soooo not worth it

 

Have you looked at the EGR Valve? Does it feel like it's out of time? If you haven't checked it, pull it out and replace it if it's full of carbon and the valve appears damaged. The problem sounds like emissions, I had an EGR stump me for a month a while back. After you replace one you have to do a full tune up to get it right. When they are bad they foul out everything and make the car feel like it has no power (fuel delivery) and runing out of time. It gets progressively worse until eventually you will find yourself doing 25 mph down a hill with your foot to the floor. The part should'nt be over 60 bucks, get a gasket with a screen.

 

replaced the egr a few months ago with the egr solenoid. passed emmisons beauitfully back in oct. since then i jsut repalced the breather filter under the canister, put on a new IAC, set my tps to .54, new cold air induction kit with k&n filter. new throttle body, coolent bypasss kit for the throttle body. oil flush/filter, new exhaust system from y-pipe to tail pipes including cat for the emissions. new radiator/thermostate, fresh battery. new cap/rotor/igniton module/wires/plugs/new o2 sensor

so yyou can see my frustration with all this work and not much improvement why im like ahhhhhh!

my valve gaskets are leaking. and pcv system on the passenger side looks oily near the grommet. i'm willing to bet the knock sensor is covered in old oil too from being dripped down on fron the side valve gaskets. jsut soooo much to remove out of the way to get them off. thats my next project besides removign the plenum and runers givign them a good polish and cleaning.

goign to install an adjustable fuel pressure regulator with new stock diaphram/spring.


and might as well poilish my fuel rails and replace my injectors since i'm almsot positive they are playing a role in my misfiring/backfiring(poppig noise) and lean/ poor power condition.

what do you think?
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also jsut installed a new cold start switch and coolent temp sensor

 

any other suggestions?

 

I has exact same problem. Turned out to be a faulty O2 sensor lying to the computer saying it was lean so ecm kept addig fuel. Check your plugs. If they are black there is too much fuel and you actually have a bad o2 sensor.

 

he already tried that

 

i unplugged the maf sensor, car started right up like the soul of the car has re-entered the engine. liek the car is off life support.


im currently replacing the maf relays and wiring connectors since they had exposing wire. they didnt throw a code until i disconnected the maf itself.

so im just going throguh the steps and hoping replacing the relays will fix my problem. but if i have to i'll replace the maf itself.

i'll let you guys know how that goes.

thanks for the tips

 

My Bad

 

so what happened after you replaced the maf relays?

 

no change after new relays, put a new rebuilt maf sensor and car runs better. also replaced injectors with a ford kind and runs great now.

so it was the stupid maf sensor