I was wondring if you guys could help me decode my engine casting number, So far I got is:

D303 = April 30 1993
14093638 = 87- 95 350 1 pc rear seal roller cam block
V 0510 UKA = Flint, Michigan May 10 but what does the suffix code UKA mean? I know it has to do with what car or truck and trans cobination.
Please help.

 

I don't know what the UKA means but when GM cast blocks it's not sure what model or even year the block is going in.
The stamped numbers in the serial number area will tell you the rest of the story. Have fun decoding those. It can be done.

 

does it really matter what vehical it came out of? i mean are you hoping it came out of a corvette or something?

 

No it dosnt really matter. Im just curious about the block I have. Im building it into a 383.

 

It's a 350. A block. Doesn't matter what it came out of, because all of what made it specific to some application, will be GONE. Heads, cam, pistons, intake, exhaust, GONE. Even the crank and probably the rods. All that matters now, is that it's a 350 block, with the various late-model provisions.

But you can figure it out easy enough, if you'll just rub a couple of neurons together.

It's a 93. What vehicles came with 350s that year? Make a list if you have to.

It's not a LT1 (is it?), so it didn't come out of a Camaro, Firebird, or Corvette.

Its suffix code doesn't start with "T", so it's probably not a truck. Furthermore, if it's 2-bolt main, it's almost certainly not from a truck.

What's left?

Caprice and Roadmaster.

But fortunately for you, the block will retain no memory of the sheet metal that it was wrapped in for its early years. Wouldn't even remember it if it had been fiberglass.

Which means you're lucky; your speed won't be as ugly as those cars were.

 

Yeah I was kinda figuring that it was from a roadmaster or a caprice. Its not an LT1 and it is a 4 bolt main. Thanks for the input.

 

If it's a 4-bolt, it came from some kind or other of a truck; maybe a van. Or, it was a service replacement engine. Doesn't matter, regardless; based on its condition, not its original identity, you'll have to do the exact same things to it, it'll cost exactly the same, work exactly the same, look exactly the same, last exactly the same length of time, and so on, no matter what its original application was. Pursuit of that info is not a worthwhile use of mental energy. Like I'm someone who can talk with any authority about anything "mental".

 

It's a 4-bolt main, one-piece rear main seal 350; you're making it into a 383. That's about all you need to know.

FWIW, mine started life as a ZZ3 crate engine. Same casting #. Happened to have pink rods, in '93 I believe they were going to PM. Are you going to keep the rods, or go new with the stroker kit?

 

I already had the block machined and had installed a forged eagle crank, forged rods and forged pistons.