Distributor Cap issues and questions
Distributor Cap issues and questions
I have an 84 z28 305 that I have swithced off of the Computer. Edelbrock intake and carb with a vacuum advance distributor.
With a new Cap the car runs like a top but after 4-5 days it seems the cap is toast. I checked the coil with a meter and it checks out fine. I next wanted to test, for the heck of it, continuity from the spark plug wire point on the top of the cap to the inside part of the cap. Where the rotor is hitting has no continuity. This seems to be the problem, because with a new cap installed she fires first crank.
Why do you think its burning up caps so frequently? They are the cheapies from Autozone, would an Accel cap and rotor stand up better?
Thanks
With a new Cap the car runs like a top but after 4-5 days it seems the cap is toast. I checked the coil with a meter and it checks out fine. I next wanted to test, for the heck of it, continuity from the spark plug wire point on the top of the cap to the inside part of the cap. Where the rotor is hitting has no continuity. This seems to be the problem, because with a new cap installed she fires first crank.
Why do you think its burning up caps so frequently? They are the cheapies from Autozone, would an Accel cap and rotor stand up better?
Thanks
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Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: Distributor Cap issues and questions
Are you using a stock type in-cap coil? You're measuring from the plug wire terminal on the outside of the cap to that termina's corresponding contact on the underside of the cap?
Re: Distributor Cap issues and questions
Yes, its just a stock coil in cap set-up. The way you described is how I am checking the cap. When I run the probe on the worn part of the contact on the inside I get no continuity but everywhere else is fine.
Here is what led me here. I checked for voltage in and that is fine. Next I took of the coil/cap and checked the coil with a multimeter and that also came up fine. So lastely I checked the cap itself and remember having this problem a time or two before.
I didn't use dielectric grease on the last change, could that be the culprit of the fried cap??
Here is what led me here. I checked for voltage in and that is fine. Next I took of the coil/cap and checked the coil with a multimeter and that also came up fine. So lastely I checked the cap itself and remember having this problem a time or two before.
I didn't use dielectric grease on the last change, could that be the culprit of the fried cap??
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