"SECURITY" light?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 594
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From: Dallas, TX
Car: '89 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: B&W 2.77 Posi
"SECURITY" light?
I know this dash light is directly related to the VATS system in my '89 IROC, but I'm not sure what exactly it indicates. If it's on when I have the key in and turned to "run", does that mean that VATS is happy? Currently, it stays on indefinitely when the key is turned to "run" and turns off when I attempt to start.
The reason I ask is because my car decided to stop starting just out-of-the-blue. I turn the key, the gauges all move, but I don't hear any clicks at all. I know it's not the started because I just replaced that. So I'm trying to figure out what between the battery and the starter isn't working.
The reason I ask is because my car decided to stop starting just out-of-the-blue. I turn the key, the gauges all move, but I don't hear any clicks at all. I know it's not the started because I just replaced that. So I'm trying to figure out what between the battery and the starter isn't working.
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,974
Likes: 0
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 vortec
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: not the best not the worst
Re: "SECURITY" light?
when you turn the key to on the vats light should come on and go off if it doesnt then vats is very unhappy that would be you problem
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 594
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
Car: '89 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: B&W 2.77 Posi
Re: "SECURITY" light?
In that case, I'll troubleshoot the VATS system.
As I understand it, there is an orange wire which contains two, smaller white wires that comes from the steering column. This connects to another connector once it exits the steering column. Do the two white wires go directly to the key socket? If so, I should read the same resistance across that connector that I would if I were checking the resistance at the key, right?
Currently, my multimeter reads an open circuit whether or not the key is in across those two white wires.
As I understand it, there is an orange wire which contains two, smaller white wires that comes from the steering column. This connects to another connector once it exits the steering column. Do the two white wires go directly to the key socket? If so, I should read the same resistance across that connector that I would if I were checking the resistance at the key, right?
Currently, my multimeter reads an open circuit whether or not the key is in across those two white wires.
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,499
Likes: 31
From: Macon, GA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec headed 355, xe262
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.70
Re: "SECURITY" light?
Yeah this is sounding very much like a VATS problem.
Unless it's the key thats worn out, you've got 2 options:
1. New ignition switch (and key, and so forth)
2. Bypass the VATS
Option 2 is what I did, and it's cheap, and it's easy.
Check it:
https://www.thirdgen.org/vats
Paraphrased:
1. Find out what resistance that key is
2. Get some resistors to match that.
3. Take the plastic panel above your shins off.
4. Find the VATS wires that go to the ignition switch.
5. cut the wires, and splice in the resistors in on the side of the VATS module and leave the wires from the ignition switch hanging, they're now worthless.
Very simple!
Unless it's the key thats worn out, you've got 2 options:
1. New ignition switch (and key, and so forth)
2. Bypass the VATS
Option 2 is what I did, and it's cheap, and it's easy.
Check it:
https://www.thirdgen.org/vats
Paraphrased:
1. Find out what resistance that key is
2. Get some resistors to match that.
3. Take the plastic panel above your shins off.
4. Find the VATS wires that go to the ignition switch.
5. cut the wires, and splice in the resistors in on the side of the VATS module and leave the wires from the ignition switch hanging, they're now worthless.
Very simple!
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