Engine/Cam Break-in Question
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Hebron, KY
Car: 1992 RS Heritage
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: TCI 700r4
Engine/Cam Break-in Question
Hi all, I have an engine break in question. I tried a search but can't find anything specific, so here goes:
I rebuilt an engine for my brother's 'Vette. He dropped a valve and junked the block. Anyway, I found him a replacement core on eBay for cheap. The guy I bought it from said he had been running it in a '69 Chevy pickup, and the guy he bought the truck from had just rebuilt the engine. He had sold the truck "a couple years ago" but kept the engine. I never put a whole lot of trust into eBay sellers, so the first thing I did when I got it home was tear it down.
Turned out he must have been telling the truth. It turned out to be .030 over, had an Edelbrock Performer cam, and all the internals looked brand new and checked out well within spec. I had it tanked and re-honed and put it back together with new rings/bearings/timing set/freeze plugs. I reused the cam and lifters... yes I bagged and tagged them as I removed them and made sure to put them back exactly where they came from.
Here's the question, do I need to do anything special as far as cam break in? Since this cam and lifter set should already be worn into each other, I'm thinking I shouldn't have to do another cam break in. Thanks for the help, should be starting this egine for the first time this weekend or next.
Dave
I rebuilt an engine for my brother's 'Vette. He dropped a valve and junked the block. Anyway, I found him a replacement core on eBay for cheap. The guy I bought it from said he had been running it in a '69 Chevy pickup, and the guy he bought the truck from had just rebuilt the engine. He had sold the truck "a couple years ago" but kept the engine. I never put a whole lot of trust into eBay sellers, so the first thing I did when I got it home was tear it down.
Turned out he must have been telling the truth. It turned out to be .030 over, had an Edelbrock Performer cam, and all the internals looked brand new and checked out well within spec. I had it tanked and re-honed and put it back together with new rings/bearings/timing set/freeze plugs. I reused the cam and lifters... yes I bagged and tagged them as I removed them and made sure to put them back exactly where they came from.
Here's the question, do I need to do anything special as far as cam break in? Since this cam and lifter set should already be worn into each other, I'm thinking I shouldn't have to do another cam break in. Thanks for the help, should be starting this egine for the first time this weekend or next.
Dave
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Gulfport MS
Car: 83 Camaro
Engine: 383
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 10 bolt 3:42 POSI
Re: Engine/Cam Break-in Question
I agree you shouldnt have to do the cam break in but it wouldnt hurt it and it would only cost you an extra oil and filter change. If you used moly lube on the install it would be a good idea to do anyway as it clogs up the filter. Then change it again at 1000 mi off normal driving before you get on it. I am sure you will get at least 5 different opinions on this as everyone has thier own break in methods or lack of.
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,091
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From: West Central Ohio
Car: 86 vette
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.07
Re: Engine/Cam Break-in Question
If you can get some cam lube to drown the cam and lifters. It would not hurt. 30w and STP is an other choice.
The new engines come with syn for the short break-in, than change to reg oil the seat the rings. Keep the the rpms under 2500 for the first 500 miles or so. 55 mph won't hurt.
The first start run for about 10 min. Let it start to get to operating temp. Then shut it off and let it cool to dead cold. Anything thats tight or hot will be looser and colder on restart.
There are lots of different ways to break in engines. This has worked for me.
The new engines come with syn for the short break-in, than change to reg oil the seat the rings. Keep the the rpms under 2500 for the first 500 miles or so. 55 mph won't hurt.
The first start run for about 10 min. Let it start to get to operating temp. Then shut it off and let it cool to dead cold. Anything thats tight or hot will be looser and colder on restart.
There are lots of different ways to break in engines. This has worked for me.
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