I have a 92 RS 305 tbi that hasn't run in 4 or so years. After a few hurdles, I finally got it to crank, but it cranks slow, and it doesn't fire. I'm fairly certain that it's cranking slow because it's either "partially seized"(according to the dumb Haynes manual) or simply not lubricated. I replaced the oil, and tried to spray WD-40 through the spark plug holes, but couldn't fit the can close enough to do more than two cylinders. Is there a way to lubricate the cylinders like this?

I know that the fuel pump isn't working, as I can't hear it when I turn the key, or when I bridge the wires in the FPR, and the (I think it's called C313) connector above the differential looks good, but I blew it out with an air chuck anyway.( odd note: there's no wire or metal clip connected to the "G" port on the under-the-dash diagnostic port, so I can't put 12 volt power to that) So I'm fairly certain I have to replace that. Is there anything else I can do to test for the fuel pump?

As far as getting spark, I don't think I'm getting any. I hooked up a multimeter to the plug wire to see if there was any voltage going through, cause I didn't see and spark on the plug itself, and it read at zero. With the engine cranking so slow, could that be the reason there's no spark?

 

Waking the dead are we?
Work on one thing at a time.
Take out the sparkplugs and lube the cylinders with engine oil using one of THESE and some vacuum tubing. About 5 squirts per hole, and spin it over with the plugs out. It will blow out what it doesn't need. While doing this check for spark with the engine spinning over fast. If you still don't have spark you might not have to change the fuel pump.'
If you do have spark, screw in some new plugs and with the help of an assistant start the engine with starting fluid. Use caution or it may cost you your eyebrows. Run it enough to check the oil pressure and get the engine freed up.
Then work on getting the fuel pump to work.

 

You rock. Awesome find, and there's a Harbor Freight around here, too.

Any tips on removing the two spark plugs closest to the firewall? I'm sure I can do it, but squeezing my arm between hard lines doesn't sound pleasing...

 

Try jacking the car up and going at the back spark plugs from underneath. I find this a little easier. Changing plugs on these cars is no walk in the park no matter how you do it.

Dave

 

Cool, I'll be trying that tomorrow, thanks for the advice. And yeah, not an easy task getting to the blasted plugs. Makes me nostalgic for my 4 cylinder Honda. Well, just a little.
... Nah.