1992 Camaro
5.7L 350 V8
B4C edition

Lately when I punch the gas on my car, it revs up and starts to accelerate but it quickly loses power and won't have power again until it shifts to the next gear. It is hard to explain in writing, but it feels like the engine isn't receiving enough fuel to maintain the power... I am just guessing. I replaced the fuel pump about 3 months ago but this just started happening about a month ago. I did not replace the fuel filter though. Last, the check engine light comes on sometimes too, mainly of the freeway, but now i see it around town also.
I don't want to kill my car by driving it if it is in a bad situation.

Any ideas suggestions or tips would be great.

 

First pull the stored error codes from the computer by using a paper clip to bridge the A and B terminals on your ALDL. You will have to count the number of flushes of your SES light and that is what will tell you what code it is throwing. Start there. By the way, it is always a good idea to change your fuel filter every 10-12K miles, but that may not be your issue. Things could range from a bad sensor or faulty injectors to a plugged up catalytic converter. You may want to get a service and repair manual for your car to help you with the diagnostic. It will list all of the codes and how to decode them using the paper clip method. Good luck, and don't drive the car until you know what's going on, otherwise you may cause more damage.

 

okay, thanks for the help.
The catalytic convertors were both jsut replaced about two years ago, so i wouldnt think they would be messed up yet... but I have no idea. I will try the error code thing and see what It comes up with

 

so i did the diagnositc self test.
it came up as a code 32
according to my Haynes manual, it says the probably cause is "EGR System; Restricted vacuum hoseto EGR solenoid or valve; poor electrical connection, open or short circuit; defective EGR sloenoid; defective EGR valve; defective ECM"

so in laymans terms, what does that mean?
any suggestions??

thanks

 

The EGR is your exhaust gas recirculation system. It pumps a little bit of exhaust gasses into your intake manifold in order to reduce pollution. It is operated by an ECM controlled solenoid, which controls the vacuum to the EGR. When the solenoid is grownded by the ECM, vacuum is blocked from the EGR and the valve is closed. When the solenoid is not grounded by the ECM, bacuum is allowed to go to the EGR and opens the valve. Too much exhaust gas flow into the manifold causes weak combustion, resulting in rough engine running and stalling. Too little exhaust gas flow can cause the exhaust temperatures to get too hot under load, potentially causing overheating and detonation.
The EGR is located at the back of the intake manifold on the passenger side near the distributor and ignition coil. It should have too black, hard vacuum lines coming out of it. Make sure that those are not broken and leaking vacuum. That is the easiest thing to do. You can also test whether or not the solenoid holds vacuum but for that I think you will need an external vacuum source to apply vacuum to the intake manifold side of the solenoid while it is grounded. It should be able to hold the vacuum. I hope this helps.

 

thanks so much for your help. Ill look in the mornong when i have some light.
ill report my findings.
thanks so much

 

did you ever find the cause? fuel pressure? EGR? EGRs are nasty buggers. One time i plugd the egr solenoid and it would run great. but when i would let go of the gas, the rpms wouldnt come down. I almost lost control because rubber stablizer bushing crackd off, no control of the rear. i bought a new solenoid, ran great. after getting a vacuum pump.

 

i think it might be the catylitic convertors... when i took my car to napa to get the parts, he said it didnt sound like either of those two parts, the solenoid or valve, and it sound to him like the exaust has a back flow issue... so im thinkin its the catylic converters... my buddy's car had the same problem last month and he replaced the cat and now its fine. mine were replaced back in 02 so i guess its plausible it could be that.
does that sound right to you?

 

hey i dont think the cat would sound a 32. IN 2006 I used to get 32 all day working on my car. check this...i Took a vacuum pump to the egr Solenoid, and it wasnt doing its job, i took off the plastic out shell, nasty grounded out "Piece of s." next i went to check if the diaphragm in the egr was moving freely, it was, and it was holding vacuum. so , i replaced the egr solenoid, from ROCKAUTO.com because i couldnt find the part anywhere. GRR> it fixed my problem, but i also replaced all the hard line vacuum hosing. and bought a vacuum tester(very very usefull) THeres also EXHaust check valves on your emissions tubing that would set a 32. even the diverter might set it off, if you read my past posts, about the four solenoids youd see my drama back in the day. with the vacuum tester, i also found that regular vacuum check valves were bad. craziness../ but i hope yo find the cause. if you pick up a haynes manual, it has resistance listings and every way to check the sensors and solenoids. very helpful book. I dont like chiltons. very poor quality

 

okay thanks for all your help. I have a haynes book already. i guess ill start with the vacuum line then and hope thats the problem. how much do u think it would cost if i brought it into a mechanic, i dont know all tha much about cars, and I live on campus at school, so I dont have all the tools or space to work...

 

Mechanics???? if you got the doe, sure y not. Today driving about 2 hours, i had a 32 code pop up on me going 65 mph only once. I put it neutral going 50 miles per hour and turned off the car, then started it up, put it into drive. it went away but i hate it when it does that, its funny i was working on the egr vacuum lines today. I was replacing the t-stat, and had to reconnect the lines. Hey you might wanna just take it in, but it going to cost big bucks, dont sign anything! theyll rack up the diagnosing labor wage, to 560 bucks, at 85 bucks an hour. then charge you about another 250 -500 bucks to fix it, and another 200-500 bucks replacing parts at retail cost .. thats easily a potential 1500 bucks to get it fix. but heres the catch...theyll usual do something to make you come back again and again. They tried charging me 560 bucks and i said NO!, i only agreed to 85 bucks, then because you didnt sign anything, theyll have to settle for the verbal contract. HEHEHe. but after they tell you whats wrong, they usual give you a list of 6 things that are wrong, it could be one thing is affecting 5 other parts but they wont tell you that. And when i got out of the shop, my TV CABLE, TRANS VALVE.(affects the shifting points in an auto tranny) was hella not adjusted, i took it back said to fix the the cable, they said they needed to replace the whole tranny to fix that. I was pIS$ED. and they left one cylinder injector harness unplugged so it would miss on purpose. THe damage i would have caused if i didnt adjust the perfectly fine tranny and it cable, and the harness to injector it would have costed me a new engine and tranny prolly, theyre jerks. they even tried stealing my old injectors and the new ones, saying it never came in. (so they would ship another box and they would get free injectors while i wait and yell at summit racing customer service and UPS. I found out they did receive the injectors in the mail, because dumba$s gave his last name to UPS DUDE>HA CAUGHT HIM. But instead of harassing him, because he is alone in the car at the mechanic shop, i didnt want him to key or break my car because i caught him stealing and lying. so i told him whatever and said just fix my car.. that was in 07'. ill never go back never. too much $$$ and ill never pay that cause im broke as it is.

 

I wouldn't replace the cats.
What your describing and the code you are throwing match.
When the computer commands the EGR to come on, it adjusts the fuel, etc... accordingly. It has no way of knowing that the EGR is not functioning, and will cause your exact issues.

You are better off doing as Saculia advised and check the electrical and vacuum connections.

You can check for vacuum leaks in that circuit by spraying WD-40 on the hoses. (its combustible, so if you hit a leak, the engine will speed up all by itself)

When I got my 84, I had to replace my EGR because it was full of carbon.

My Cat is 25 years old and working fine. I doubt yours are bad in just 7 years.

Good luck whatever you decide.

 

Read this and you'll see why we believe its the EGR.

https://www.thirdgen.org/egrdiagnose