Ok here is the wiring problem, car sat for three months, starter started to go bad so I replaced and after that the fuel pump wouldn't kick in but put out power when the car is running. Put a new relay and a better connector on, checked the fuses and going to check the ground out back by the tank and still doesn't kick in. When the key is on and cranked for a few seconds one of the relays are buzzing like the power is trying to get to the pump to prime it for next start, now when I can get the car running the idle is at 500rpm with me keepin it running and its throwing a code but drops if the rpms fall under 900rpm. Took the maf off and car still runs. Any help? I jumped the pump with a wire and the pump works but doesn't kick in when the key is on???

 

Did you jump or boost the battery to try to start the engine? Some boost/chargers will impart a lot of AC voltage on the system in boost mode, and this can wreak havoc with the ECM.

 

No I had the charger on it but took it off when I would start the car, what I mean by jumped the pump is there's a way of testing the fuel pump by way of the obd 2 socket. Is it possible by letting it sit for a few months that the connections went bad? The car ran beautiful when I last drove it in december.

 

Once the ECM provide power to the FP relay the FP relay switches from the jumper terminal to battery power so if you've lost connection between the FP relay and the inline fuse, the engine won't start until oil pressure closes the fuel pump switch assuming it hasn't lost connection to the fuse, if the oil pressure falls below specification the FP switch will open and the pump stops. IF the ECM is losing the Distributor reference pulses it will stop the pump by pulling power to the fuel pump Relay coil.
FYI, the:

• ECM
• MAF
• Fuel Pump
• FP oil pressure switch
• and associated relays

are powered by one inline fuse at the battery, well at least that's how mine is wired.