OK, I seek some input from fellow sojourners.

Has anyone pulled the gas tank without removing the diff.?
If so, how far down do you have to drop the diff.?
I had the back elevated enough so that it was hanging on the shocks,
and tires were 5" off the floor. Couldn't get the tank clear, so I went
ahead & completely removed the diff. (Not that big a deal, since the
new one is sitting in the garage. Just didn't plan on doing things in this
sequence.)

Removing the tank was necessary since
(a) fuel pump upgrade is called for
(b) car hasn't moved of its own power in 3+ years, so tank needs
thorough cleaning.

After removing the pump/gauge sender assembly, and looking at
2 - 3 feet of double angled structure, I began to ponder the usefullness
of f-p access panels, as discussed in other threads. To remove my
assembly would require a panel half the size of the rear seat. What am
I missing here?

And now that I have the pump assembly in hand, I see that where once
was a short length of tubing connecting the pump and the outlet pipe,
there is now two unconnected lumps of tar-like goo. What is normally
used, that will withstand submersion in gasoline?

And speaking of the connecting tube, the outlet pipe has no barbs or
any normal structure for the tube to seal with a squeeze clamp. Due to
the physical structure, it wouldn't go anywhere, but it seems likely that
there would be some pressure loss of blow-by. Especially considering that
all the rest of the fuel line is assembled with o-ring-&-shoulder fittings.
Again, am i missing something here?

And finally, fuel pump replacement.
Cost considerations aside, Walbro enjoys a good reputation. So the
possibilities are 255 or 155. For a street 355, expecting 300+ hp, is
the 255 overkill, or will the 155 adequately support this engine, the
few times it might see the drag-strip?

I look forward the input, from this the greatest collection of gearhead
expertise, and occasional gas-bag, the automotive performance community
has ever known.

 

bump...

 

Disconnecting the shocks, panhard bar, and rear brace and letting it hang as far down as it will go without straining the brake line is how far you need to drop it in order to pull the tank without removing the diff. Long enough sentence?

J30R10 is the hose you'd be looking for. It's gasoline submersion resistant hose.

I've changed 2 pumps so far. Both times dropping the tank. I have no desire to cut up the rear of my cars.

Which pump? Do it once, do it right. It's better to have too much than not enough. Either one should work fine in your application. However, i vote for the 255.

 

viprklr -- much good info.



Which is the underlying reason for the post.

Perhaps you can shed a bit more light on the pump difference.
I've had buddies with really high capacity pumps, i.e.
enough capacity to support the hi-rpm turbo-charging, get into
an undesirable situation during street cruising. At that point,
there is so much return flow, that fuel is getting hot enough
to be on the ragged edge of vapor-lock. I can't swear about
particulars, but these were knowledgable guys, and the problem
description is certainly feasible.

Now I doubt that a 255 will put my vehicle into that operational
regime, and cost savings is definitely not a concern. If the 155
will provide adequate flow/pressure for my engine (highly mod street
350, that will see track-time only enough to get everything dialed in...)
what's the up side to the 255 -- other than macho-ness?

 

Currently unforseen future go-fast goodies.

I did all sorts of mods to my car with no intention of nitrous. I'm now thinking about doing it. I just so happen to have built everything to support a 200+ shot if I so desire.

See my point?