just bought a motor this one to be exact http://www.blueprintengines.com/popu...specs&pc_id=67 and wanted to see what i could add for nitrous and or a procharger. need help thanks

 

Personally, Id say no, Look into the Probe forged, they are affordable, and ill hold up alot better than a hyper piston of any brand, for NA hypers are great, but i would feel comfortable running anything other than a small 50-100 shot, and very very very small amounts of boost, like under 5 psi. Forged is the way to go.

 

it just sucks cause thats what the motor comes with and everywhere i read said it would be ok. thanks for your input

 

Friend of mine ran a 125 shot on those same pistons and never had a problem. They looked great when the engine was torn down after 5 years of running.

 

you can run nitrous with those if the rings are gapped properly. A friend of mine bought the same engine from blueprint and broke some pistons. I tore it apart and found that the top ring end gaps with touching each other. big no no of a hyperutectic piston. They need to be gapped more on the top ring then a forged pistons does.

 

They'll last forever IF you don't encounter detonation. That's the killer with the KBs or any cast/hyper piston.

 

i dnt really like that engine... seems to be a miss matched motor. chevy heavy beam rods? lol not sure what that means, and 150,000psi bolts are basically stock grade 8 bolts. the engine prob would have made more power with a roller cam and less duration, in the 218-220 range... basically that cam has to much duration for a head that wont flow enough in the upper RPM ranges that the 383 requires. aka miss matched parts.

ive heard alot of confilicting stories about the KB pistons and there ring gaps... mostly that they require HUGE clearances due to there expansion, more than lets say speed pro etc, i believe KB pistons have a higher silica content then other brands. and nitrous will only INCREASE that ring gap more, but will also decrease compression bc of more leak down due to larger ring gap. i ran .018" top ring gap and .020" or it might have been .020" and .022" on my SRP forged pistons, and this was set for mild nitrous/forced induction. make sure u call KB and ask them what they recomend for a nitrous ring gap for your pistons. ive heard of them being in the .030-.050" range. Also some people like to run larger gaps on the top ring and smaller on the second but some do the opposite.

i would stay to stay away from anything higher than a 100hp shot. hypers dont like power adders and not to mention with a 100hp shot u would be pushing 500hp which i believe is at the safe MAX hp of a hyper piston. as damon stated... stay away from detonation, a 50hp shot could destroy ur pistons if detonation is occuring.

 

General Clearance Guidelines For (KB) HYPEREUTECTIC Series Pistons

Pics, with a closer pic of what is relevant to you

 

thanks for everyones help i have sold that engine back to where i got it from and am building a motor now. have a 4 bolt block 350 and building a 355 now that im putting stealth ram on here are the parts im buying let me know if i need anything else or any suggestions.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-1-91015BIE/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-K315-465-450/

 

edit:double post

 

first the rotating assembly has file fit rings... these have to be gapped properly... u will need a ring filer. the kit doesnt state what pistons are being used, it just says forged, also the pistons are flat top. u need to check piston to valve clearance, esp if the block has been decked and depending on the cams lift etc.

the trickflow kit is not bad but there are lots of things to consider... it doesnt come with lifters, bearings for the cam, pushrods and no intake. u will have to properly figure out pushrod length. usually dual springs on the heads requires a longer valve stem which would change pushrod length. u will need an adjustable pushrod length checker.

the cam is not bad... close to my comp cams XFI 280 cam... 230/236 .571/.569 lift with 113 lobe. Your gona run into some tuning issues with the lobe seperation of your cam which is 110. the closer lobe will make tuning a pain and EFI like a wider lobe like 113 to 114 to idle smoothly. anything lower than 112 tends to pi$$-off the ECM.

your heads are 72cc which are alittle large, have u figured out comp ratio with the flat top pistons in the kit? wat head gasket are u planing to run (thickness), and what is the quench of the piston to head? things to consider would be keeping the block stock (not decking it) to give u alittle more clearance with the piston to valves, but u will have to figure this all out bc decking the block will usually give u a good quench area but it depends on the setup. u need to figure out the comp ratio with all that ive stated, or u might be to low or too high and performance will suffer. comp ratio is also important bc u need to figure out what pump gas u plan to run. a 8.5:1 engine will be a dog but it can run off 87 octane regular gas with ease. bump it up to 9.5:1 comp and u will have to run 89 octane of higher. get up to like 10-11:1 and u can only run premium 93 octane. so set up your motor to the type of gas u will HAVE to use and can afford. mine is setup for 9.8:1 with a .015" head gasket shim compressed thickness and i run 93octane. i can swap the head gaskets out for .039-.042" compressed thickness and drop compression to 9.3:1.

heads also dont state there max lift. if the cam has .539" lift then the springs have to handle that plus .060" MINIMUM! the heads/springs must take at least .6" lift with no issues... alittle more would be better. Alot goes into setting up an engine correctly and matching the parts. doing so correctly will make u very happy in the end and will budget/make your money go alittle further.

 

ok well im not sure what rotating kit i want i have done alot of searching and what not im looking for my motor to be either a 355 or 383. forged pistons and what not for nitrous and/or procharger. here is as far as i got
http://www.summitracing.com/search/M...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc

someone want to help me out.

 

i want to be able to run on 93 octane i dont pay for gas so its whatever. but i also want the motor to last as it will be an everyday driver. for the most part.

 

first pick a brand u want to use... eagle is not bad from what i hear but i hear that scat is better... there hardening process is much "deeper". this only referres to there cast products like cranks. if your gona be less than 550hp then stick with a cast crank, i recomend the scat 9000 series cast crank, this crank will handle 550hp if u keep it spinning below 6000rpms.

the easiest thing to build would be a 355. basically just bore the block .030 and throw in a kit. this will give u a easy going setup that wont require all the radical clearancing u will need if u go 383. 355's are also alittle easier on the cylinder walls (383 strokers tend to push more on the cylinder walls since the stroke as been increased, this also depends on whether u use 5.7 or 6" rods) on a 383 u have alot to worry about, clearance for the rods to block clearance is 1. 2 would be the crank to piston skirt clearance (it gets awfully close believe it or not). 3 would be the rod to cam clearance! i can vouch that this is a PITA! scat rods will hit a regular base circle cam no questions... it hit mine big time. I had to grind all the rods/rodbolts to clear. is is a tedious time consuming thing that u cant mess up or the engine will just destroy itself.

so choose 355 or 383. then pick a brand. as long as ur below the 10:1 compression range u wont have issues with pump gas 93.

if u plan on running more than 550hp then u will have to run a forged crank and ur rotating kits will easily be 2000$ vs the 1000$ u would pay for a cast crank. also a 383 will suck alot more air than a 355 so better heads and BIGGER injectors will be needed for fuel requirements. most 450hp 355 can get away with a 24lb injector. a 450hp 383 will prob require a larger 30lb.

if you want a engine that will Revvvvv to way 6000-6500 easily then a 355 is for u. a 383 is not a revvv kinda engine (it still can) but its increased stroke adds low end tq.

 

no nitrous on kb pistons they cannot take even a small shot you would be better off with stock pistons for nos, but spend money on forged if you have any intent on running nos its cheap insurance