Please Help
Please Help
Just yesterday I turned my 1991 firebird off for 3 min to get the mail and when I attemped to restart my car nothing happened. I have tested the electricity all the way to the starter and everything is good to go. I have strong suspicions that this is my starter bc I am able to push start my car. Unfortunately when I got the car started it kept backfiring and dying. It would not run for more than a few moments. The only thing that I did differently before this happened was when I put my gas I added some of that gas station octane booster. Can anyone please help me? I would greatly appreciate it.
Re: Please Help
After you get it push started.Check to see that your getting at least 13 volts to the battery .If not change the alternater fuel injection wont run correctly unless it getting at least 13 volts.
Re: Please Help
Ok will do and thank you so much for your help. I have also been told that it might be my cat do you think that that is plausible because I now have a lot of exhaust smoke coming up around the transmission.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 569
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
Car: 98 Camaro Z28
Engine: 346 LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3:43
Re: Please Help
My younger bro had a 92 camaro rs and we put a 355 sbc in it and it would do the same thing every now and then. The only thing we could think of was the ignition switch or the key itself not reading. So if it gets to the point where she wont start at all i would deff check those things other then that it shouldnt effect the way it runs if so get it checked out to stop and accuring problems
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 992
Likes: 1
From: Sacramento, California
Car: 92 RS
Engine: a slow one
Transmission: a crunchy one
Axle/Gears: a whiny one
Re: Please Help
If it was the catalytic converter it would still turn over. That can definitely lead to hesitation and stumbling along with dying if it's plugged. But it would still turn over. Unless your car smokes alot anyways, exhaust smoke from around the trans area is probably trans fluid getting onto your exhaust and burning off. Check for ATF leaks. It won't start smoking just from leaking exhaust. You'll hear it before anything else.
It's probably a common problem we have like
A. Starter solenoid or fusible links. I've had both go on my car. Check them. Visual for the fusible links (it can be hard to tell cause they don't always melt all the way) and audible for the solenoid. Bang that sucker with something hard while someone is trying to start it repeatedly.
B. V.A.T.S. key. Alot of the time the little prong on the key wears down. Another common one is the wire that connects the ignition to the VATS module breaks off the contact in the column. If you try to push start it like this the electric's will not fire injectors or fuel pump, so it will just turn over alot, sputter and die, giving you the impression it's running for a couple seconds (happened to me before also). Make sure the fuel pump comes on when you turn the key. If it's the key you can get a new one made with your vin or just solder more material on there and file it down neatly. If it's the wire you'll have to pull the column apart. Search around the board and find a way to check it.
C. Neutral Safety Switch/Clutch Switch. If it's in drive or your clutch (you said push start so I assume you have a stick) is not depressed all the way (and the car can't tell if it is if the clutch switch is bad) it will not start. I've commonly seen the sheet metal nut fall off or get mangled and let it work loose enough to not work even though it's still mounted. Make sure it is mounted flush and securely.
It's probably a common problem we have like
A. Starter solenoid or fusible links. I've had both go on my car. Check them. Visual for the fusible links (it can be hard to tell cause they don't always melt all the way) and audible for the solenoid. Bang that sucker with something hard while someone is trying to start it repeatedly.
B. V.A.T.S. key. Alot of the time the little prong on the key wears down. Another common one is the wire that connects the ignition to the VATS module breaks off the contact in the column. If you try to push start it like this the electric's will not fire injectors or fuel pump, so it will just turn over alot, sputter and die, giving you the impression it's running for a couple seconds (happened to me before also). Make sure the fuel pump comes on when you turn the key. If it's the key you can get a new one made with your vin or just solder more material on there and file it down neatly. If it's the wire you'll have to pull the column apart. Search around the board and find a way to check it.
C. Neutral Safety Switch/Clutch Switch. If it's in drive or your clutch (you said push start so I assume you have a stick) is not depressed all the way (and the car can't tell if it is if the clutch switch is bad) it will not start. I've commonly seen the sheet metal nut fall off or get mangled and let it work loose enough to not work even though it's still mounted. Make sure it is mounted flush and securely.



