I wired them CLOCKWISE, #1 is 2 spaces left of where the wire connectors are, #8 is the one to the left of that one. I havent changed the wires since the pictures. I am not sure which ones were not firing, I am just going to replace all the plugs.

 

Leave the wires where you have them, just rotate your dizzy. It won't change your firing order, just your timing

 

If you have a multi-meter, check the resistance of your wires with the OHMS setting.
Excerpt from a site explains what I wanted to say..

Silicones have a resistivity of 10^9 to 10^11 ohms per meter (between 1 and 100M ohms per mm). Given a core diameter of 2mm and insulation diameter of 7mm that's only 2.5mm of insulation from the core to the outside world and most wires actually leak a considerable amount of energy to their outer shell.

So basically, if you have 1 or more bad wires, the resistance of said bad wire/s will be much higher than that a good one of a similar length.

That's why I asked you about your wire age.

I think my shortest new wires had about 6 or 7 OHMS and the longest were somewhere around 10 or maybe 12 OHMS, but don't quote me, it's just a guess. Been awhile since I did it.

 

If you'd like, I could PM you a pic of my dizzy with the aircleaner off

 

What I was talking about when I said "rotate dizzy, etc..." was in regards to someone saying to line up the distributor with the 1 and 8 wires to the sides of the distributor. A rotation of that degree, would place the striker nowhere near where it is supposed to be.

I am not too sure what your talking about with the plug wires? I have a multimeter, but I am not sure what that would have to do with it? I know the wires are good enough to run an engine, but I will get new ones when I can.

A pic would be cool.

 

Yes my engine really needs a bath



That wet crap is just water

See how my 1 and 8 straddle the center line of the carb?

 

Yeah that was the way I wanted it originally, but the way it is turned should have no effect on the timing, as long as it is timed correctly....?

 

Umm, when you turn it, you are affecting timing. You turn the Whole Assy to get your timing where you want it.
Having it installed either correct or 180 Degrees out is not what I am getting at.
The way you have it wired, #1 and #8 after the block, like mine, is good.
Turn it counter-clockwise like mine and try to run it.
When you turn the Dizzy Cap clockwise, it follows the direction of the Rotor, which in turn causes Retardation.
The more you turn it counter-clockwise, the more advance you get.
Your timing is probably out by 10 or more degrees Retarded with the pot turned past the end of your valve cover.
That's why, when I saw your pics, I said it's Way out.
Just try to turn it like my Pic and start it. It won't hurt anymore than what you have already done @ WOT.

 

Oh, and by the way, I was so embarrassed with the Pic I posted last night, I pulled it into the shop today and washed the motor.

 

I understand what you are saying, by turning the distributor to advance/retard timing. I am going to mess with it some more tomorrow, I put in new spark plugs tonight, and made sure all of the wires were nice and tight. Its too late to mess with it right now, so I will try to fire her up tomorrow. I still cant figure out why the damn pressure regulator wont REGULATE THE PRESSURE. For $100, for a small piece of cast aluminum, I think that it should work the way it is intended to.

Update will be posted tomorrow.

Thanks again.

 

The second thing I was talking about, the OHMS, has to do with bad wires.
The more resistance a wire has, the more leakage or arcing you get.
Would you like to know how to test them?

 

Sorry I didn't read all your posts.

This, IMHO, tells me the spark has nowhere to go?
I would think this means the 'circuit' is not complete?
Spark not leaving Cap because of bad wires?
Probably just another Red Herring and sorry if it's creating More confusion.
Maybe ignore this if you test your wires and set your timing.

 

Afterthought........
Has this dizzy ever run before?

As you said earlier, you have done this kind of thing in the past.
Besides the timing and the fuel, could this new dizzy be bad?
Do you have the stock one around?

 

I have been thinking that I got a defective dizzy (I hope not) I do have a stock (computer controlled) dizzy laying around, though. I am going to fiddle with it tomorrow, and try to find out the REAL problem here, Its so simple, I just know it!!

 

You can use the CC dizzy to test it and see if your vacuum one is the culprit. It just won't advance itself correctly, which is fine in your case.

 

Hey bradley i jus got my motor in two days ago we we initially go everything in had the same symptoms the guy helping me with the motor instantly knew he pulled the cap of marked where the rotor was pointing pulled out the distributor turned it 180 degrees put distributor back in cap on and she fired up instantly and purred like a kitten.. when u mentioned the backfiring the only symptoms that come to me are incorrect firing order which you already said you checked plenty of times which leads me to 180 off..



(always start with the basics suck bang blow.)

 

My husband is dealing with the exact same thing. He is having me look up online if I can find anything that might work. He has re-timed it numerous times, bought a new distributor today, that didn't work either. He is stumped at why it doesn't want to start. Let us know if you get it running and what you did.. I will do the same if he figures it out.

Just a background he dropped the engine in and when you try to start it, it backfires like crazy and just wont start.

 

Ill try to help, I believe I am getting closer to having this beast up and running.

I lucked out today, I had someone coming over to buy some parts, and casual conversation led to him to say that he had actually built dragster motors for a living. Of course I then offered to just give him the parts if he wouldnt mind helping me figure this thing out. We worked on it, maybe 20 minutes or so, and basically what he said was:

-Timing was spot on. (we pulled #1 plug, he showed me a trick with wadded up toilet paper in the plug hole, kick it over a bit, paper flys out and makes a loud pop, theres your compression stroke)

-Valves were 'somewhat' wrong, hard to tell because it felt like some of the lifters werent pumped with oil, making it really hard to adjust them, they should be adjusted well enough to run the engine for now.

-FPR is hooked up correctly, it is getting tuel to the inlet of FPR, that fuel is getting to the carburetor, but the reason that the pressure wont drop down, is because the return line is bent, kinked, or clogged, not allowing any (or very little) fuel through, therefor it cannot bypass adequately. We hooked up the return line to some extra hose, and put the end in a gas tank, turned the pump on, boom 6psi, and return was pumping right through.

Now I just have to find that blockage in the return line, I REALLY hope it isnt clogged up INSIDE the fuel tank.

Thanks!!

 

Allright, I hate this car right now. I jacked it up, crawled under it, inspected all the fuel lines from the front of the car, down to where they clamp to rubber, there are no kinks, bends, or anything that I can see. I even tried to hook up the return line to the evap line, and the pressure still builds, and doesnt drop. I am sure that this problem is a direct result of some moron letting this car sit by a lake for 11 years, without any attention. I really dont want to drop the fuel tank, I just put exhaust, and new rearend in not even a week ago, and I would hate to have to take all that back out.

Is there anything that I can do, to NOT have to drop the fuel tank????

 

I have decided to just bite the bullet and drop the tank on wednesday. Wish me luck.

 

sorry i haven't been reading everything but have you tried blowing through the line? with that much length it may just need to be a bigger size.

 

I hooked a small air compressor to the line and got it up to 90-100psi before giving up. I guess it isnt going to let anything through.

 

He got it to run.. This is what he did.

# 1 piston TDC
align the cam sprout with the mark pointing at 12:00 instead of 6:00 this should have the #3 intake valve open.
Both # 1 valves are closed.

Put the #1 spark plug wire to wherever the rotor is pointing and start the sequence from wherever the rotor is pointing.

Not sure if this is exactly what the problem you are having is. but after 3 weeks of dinking around with timing he finally got it started. All we were getting was backfiring.
Here is the video of it finally starting.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m1dk4rVE-GY

He was going by what book said which it said to have the cam sprocket down but he asked a mechanic and the mechanic said to point both up and that worked.

 

The crank rotates twice for every one revolution of the cam. Lining up the dots at the top or bottom of the cam gear maeks no difference. Most people just line em up next to each other because it's easier to see.

 

That maybe true.. I was just going off what he did different last night compared to the past couple of week of not starting. He is by no means a mechanic, this is his first time rebuilding an engine.

 

It Runs!

Dropped the tank, turns out that the return line, by the base of where the fuel pump pickup is, was totally rusted shut. FULL of rust, so bad it didnt even let air through. I cut the line a little higher, ran rubber hose down to where it dumps originally, put everything back together, adjusted the fuel pressure to 5psi, and guess what? Cranked FIRST try, other than valve chatter, a little smoke, and nothing being tuned, she runs!!!

Thanks for your help everyone!

 

And now, It DOESNT run.

I am at my wits end with this damn engine. It was running, not well, but runnning today, hooked up the timing light, and the timing light wouldnt blink with the engine running, and everything hooked up right (New light, used on a buddies camaro, and works fine) I moved the wire that went to the plug wire (on the timing light) and the engine just shut off, that fast. Now it wont start at all.

It seems the more time and money I throw at this car, all it does is shovel crap right back in my face. I dont want to have to sell it, I love this car and wouldnt trade it for anything, I just really need help with it.

The only ideas I have:

-Defective distributor
-Arcing plug wires (a few are burned)
-Its cursed (lol)

 

You may as well try the dizzy you've tried everything else...

 

Im just going to put the old CC dizzy in there and see what happens, I need new plug wires anyway.

 

Replaced plug wires today, same results.

Pulled #1 plug to check on timing, wadded up tissue in there, and when the tissue came out, so did quite a bit of fuel. It seems that the carb is shooting a little bit of gas out of the carb now as well.

Is there anyone local who can come and help me? I can give you a bit of money, or some 3rd gen parts, or whatever, this thing is mind boggling.

 

Could you describe in more detail what wire you touched when the engine died?

Excess fuel issue....return line plugged again? Did the fuel in the tank smell a bit rank? You say this thing sat a long time.

I'm north of Seattle, or I'd come help

 

you said u have 15psi of fuel going to ur carb. you only need 5-8 psi or ur going to blow ur cars. get some brake clean or starter fluid and spray the carb and have some one start the car and seee if u can keep it running with you carb cleanner or brake clean. if soo then its you fuel psi.
if your car back fires then you 180off
i would check fuel 1st if i dont have any backfires
most of the time i see ppl with hight psi to the carbs or 180 off when they come to my shop where i work

 

what city in florida are you in? i'm available.

 

I fixed the fuel pressure issue, It holds steady at 5psi.

The wire I moved was the wire from the timing gun, the one that clamps the #1 spark plug so it can read the timing. I believe this to be un-related, but I could be wrong.

I have had the tank dropped before, fuel was awful, atleast 5-6 years old. Its been a daily driver since thn though, without issue.

I KNOW that the distributor is NOT 180* off, I have set / checked it 7 times.

Ide hate to have you come from georgia to help me, I wouldnt feel right having you come all the way down here, just to find out it was a stupid problem, and me not having much to give in return. I am trying to get my father to help me out, I will see what he says about it, hopefully, together we can get her up and running.

My plans for tomorrow:
-Check all vacuum lines and wire connections
-Check TDC and the correlation to the distributor striker
-(If need-be) Remove the Distributor, and replace with an old CC one, just to see if the new one is defective.

 

You HAVE to clean out that fuel tank if it smells rank
Take it to a Rad Shop or Replace it
Clean out All your lines and then try to get it running
Varnished Fuel can be a nasty thing to fight

 

I obviously removed all old gas, and it has been re-filled so many times since than, it didnt smell bad. Only the fuel in the return smelled a bit funny, but not very much fuel was in there and i ran carb spray through it.

 

I had to ask as many guys skip the cleaning of the fuel tank
The old gas could have tainted the tank enough that some still get crap plugging filters and pickups, so I always have to bring it up
You wouldn't believe the tanks that I see @ our Shop
" You tried to run your car with this ? "

 

When I pulled my sending unit out, I couldnt believe the car drove at all. The fuel didnt even seem flammable anymore, TONS of rust, fuel filter weighed a good 2 pounds, and I couldnt blow through it, BROWN fluid coming out of it, it was bad. If I ever have to drop the tank again, I am going to buy a brand new one, and get a new sending unit as well.

Ill update tomorrow with what happens, as always, I am hoping for the best.

 

What you experienced, and I hope you remember the foul smell, was Varnished Gas
That is what kills most fuel system when guys try to start something that has sat
It all gets sucked up into the fuel system and cloggs up everything
Glad to hear you cleaned it all out first before you tried to start it

In extreme situations, I have started cars with a fuel line from a Gerry Can, just to avoid the fuel system contamination

 

have you replaced the spark plugs since this started? black or wet spark plugs dont fire well. i fixed i guys truck one time, his old carb was flooding so he replaced it. he spends days and days trying to get it to run. he calls me over there, i pull a spark plug, it was black. i put in a set of plugs, set the timing an i was on my way. he said it never ran so good before. anyway what part of FL? i go through FL several times a year anyway.

 

Tampa, I replaced the plugs not long ago, but when I pulled the #1 plug, it was wet, considering fuel poured out of the hole.

 

you should replace all the plugs even though they are new. or at least remove them all and clean thoroughly. but plugs are so cheap anyway. ive replaced several sets at a time before getting a car to run right.

 

How did you hook up your new distributor? Is it a stock replacement? The CC distributor runs off a resistor wire. I would recommend hooking a constant 12v straight off your battery to your new distributor and see where that gets you. Is it backfiring thru the carb or out the exhaust or neither?

No need to buy new plugs make sure they are gaped to .035" and dry then put them back in.

Have you set for float bowl levels? If gas is leaking out of your spark plug then check your oil, does it smell like gas? If it does then your leaking gas from your carb.

once you verified everything above have someone sit inside the car and crank while you rotate your distributor slowly. Be sure to give the starter a rest so you dont burn it out.

Let us know how you make out.

 

I used the thick pink wire that was on the original TBI distributor.

I will dry all the plugs off.

I didnt set the float, these carbs are basically "plug and play".

Frankly, I am tired of looking at this engine.

 

Your floats will probably still need adjusting. they can get them close from the factory but should still be checked.

Try hooking the dizzy directly up to 12v right off the battery, this will help eliminate any other wiring if it still doesn't want to run.

try the starter thing you might find that your timing is off. If anything mark it where it sits (marker line on the base of the dizzy and intake) then you can always put it back to where you had it.

 

did you mange to figure out what was wrong with it or no?? cause im having the same problem.. but im wondering if mine is caused by not have a fuel return like hooked up.. i blocked off the metal line.. and my fuel pump doesnt have a fitting for a return like.. its not a stock pump.. and its running like 5 to 8 psi..

 

Not yet.

I am having it trailered off, and tomorrow, one my dads' Chevy guru buddies is going to take a look at it. I will report back.

 

Your fuel pumps not turning on because the oil sending unit might not be wired right, you can bypass the oil sender by running 12v into the bottom left port of the plug on the right under side of steering column. This will manually turn the pump on.

Also, make sure you have a 3 port fuel regulator (return style)

 

I appreciate the response, but I know that the pump wont turn on, as I never wired the OPSU switch, and in the pics I have a Mallory 1403 regulator :P .

Anyhow-
Brought the car to my dads place on a trailer, I got in it while he looked at it, told me to try to starte it, then he moved the distributor a little bit and it fired right up and idled. That was both irritating and relieving at the same time, I dont know how many times I turned the dizzy, or even replaced it, with no results. I also believe that my "new" distributor was defective. I drove it home from his house (about an hour or so) without a hitch. Car ran at 190 degrees steady, good oil pressure, etc.. Just felt a bit sluggish, but shes getting there!

Thanks guys!

 

I just took my car out for the first time after rebuild and it backfires under acceleration, otherwise it runs and sounds great. i am gunna try putting 93 in it. It is a tpi and i set the timing to 6 deg. btdc with tan wire disconnected. When i plug the wire back in and restart it the engine light stays out and the timing is at about 20-25 deg off the scale. I think my problem may be my new knock sensor that may be the wrong appplication. Any help would be apreciated. I hope its not the valve lash inncorect i went 3/4 turn after the slack was out.