Well I had her stored away for winter but got a chance to take her out over the past few days.. I am still having some problems (not that they would just go away lol) but looking for some insight.. The main issues I am realizing is that the car takes a while of cranking to finally turn over.. Usually takes like 6 seconds of cranking.. Durign that time I usually turn the key to the off position at least once so basically i hear the fuel pump go twice.. also I notice that I get a heavy gas/exhaust odor however i dont know if that is just because its straight piped with no cats, muffler, or smog equipment.. basically I am trying to get her to turn right over.. i actually have her listed for sale locally (i really dont want to) but wanted to try and get her fixed right for the next owner.. unless i have a change of heart and keep her which is what i feel every time i get in to drive.. anyway was hoping for some input on what i should be looking at.. like i said she definately has the power to crank and turn over.. its just that it takes alot of cranking to get there.. i wasnt sure what would cause that... it sort of makes me wonder about what caused it.. when i first bought her it didnt take this long to turn over.. it was only when i brought her to Meineke where the guy did a lot of custom work on older cars.. i brought the guy parts that Summit racing had listed that would work with my engine however the guy said they didnt fit perfect and he had to "make" it work.. thats when i started noticing the car taking longer to start.. parts installed at that time were Hi-flo runners, Hi-flo intake manifold baseplate, spark plugs, wires, headers and distributor cap.. he said the holes on the runners and didnt fit perfectly so he had to open them up a bit.. also he said the distributor cap wasnt the right one but made it work.. not sure how its supposed to be but its pretty loose.. i mean i can move it around with my hand and shake it around.. i really dont know what would be causing this.. i plan on bringing it to a guy that work on nothing but muscle cars (camaros, firebirds, and stangs) but was hoping to get a little insight as to what i might be looking at... also not sure if it helps but when they did all that work they also removed the oil cooler hookups as they said i didnt really "need" it, plus it didnt reach with everything in there or whatever..they also removed the a/c unit at this time as they said it was broken which i knew it was so they said they just took it out... also i believe he said they removed my o2 sensors.. they said that i should drive it around for a while and bring it back so they can tighten the header bolts and hook everythign up but i never ended up bring it back.. just wondering if that could have anything to do with it as well..

also forgot to add.. its a 1987 Iroc-Z TPI - Originally a 305 but owner replaced with 5.7 350...

 

When you bought the intake manifold.....did you get the one that has the provision for a cold start injector? No csi on a csi car will cause extended cranking times unless you get into the prom and re-program.

Check for vacuum leaks since "your holes didn't line up".

Are the screws too long on the dizzy cap? If they are and they're hitting the manifold, you won't be able to tighten the cap unless you cut 'em down. And yes, it's supposed to be tight.

You don't really need the oil cooler lines but they're nice to have. Why remove 'em? Were the headers in the way? I find that hard to believe.

O2 sensors? You have more than 1 bung? At the very least, you should be running 1. Your engine bases its fueling on feedback from the O2 sensor. If your headers didn't come with a bung, then you need to get one welded in and install a sensor.

 

Not sure if it had the csi.. I bought the Edelbrock 3860 Hi-Flo intake manifold baseplate.. Supposed to be stock configuration.. http://http://www.summitracing.com/p...x?sku=EDL-3860

As far as the oil cooler goes I forget the why but basically they said that he lines wouldnt reach having to go around something and the guy said i really didnt need them so it woldnt causea problem... and the 02 sensor i think its just the 1 but he said he would have to extend the line or something and said to bring it back after a week or 2 of driving but i never ended up going back..

 

Do you have a metal tube on the driver's side that goes to a single injector right before cylinder/runner number 5?
If so, that's the cold start injector. If not, somebody deleted it and shouldn't have.

 

I will check that in a few.. (raining out now).. but i also noticed that it is mostly very bad when i first go out to start it.. if i drive the car around a bit and/or have it running for a while then turn it off it will start back up relatively quick (maybe 2-3 seconds) compared to when i go out and first start it after sitting for a night...