So.

My 305 runs. This being the case, I will probably be refraining from heavy spending on the Firebird (after all, 2k into it just to get my carb swap working is a tall order) whilst I pay down some of the debt I've accrued and wait patiently (and by patiently I mean flooring it all the time) for my 180,000 mile mini-mouse to grenade.

My question to you folks is this. Crate, or rebuildable core?

2 cars and 3 engines in, I've learned a great deal, but I'm about ready to take a stroll down easy street. It would be really nice to have something to just plop in there (probably nowhere near as simple as I think it will be as I have never separated and engine/trans or meddled with a stick shift clutch/pedal assembly and have only a limited knowledge of what sort of balancing the motor will need...but I'm rambling) instead of having to go through all the headache of tearing it down, honing it out, finding whatever nightmare caused the motor to fail, fixing that...etc.

However, as previously mentioned, I have accrued a fair bit of debt, and therefore should be looking to do it on the cheap...

What do you guys think? What are my options, really?

Junkyard running motor? Shady craigslist crate? Goodwrench $2K pig?

Will rebuilding a motor nickel and dime me to what a crate would usually cost? Thoughts more than welcome, as I'm pretty much on the fence here.

 

if you just want a cruiser junkyard motor, if youre looking for power build it to your liking, if you just want to be lazy but rep the most reward, buy something already built from someone on here or craigslist.... i wouldnt buy a crate motor when you can get a built motor with <5K miles on it for the same price

my rebuild right now im in at 1500 for a cast rotating assembly, alot of machine work, comp cam and vortec heads, with everything else needed for a top running motor, building it yourself isnt cheaper, but you know what you have and its built to your specs

 

When I carbed my LO3 I did it for under $50. so it running you $2k makes me wonder if you're up to the swap yet. You could've paid a local shop less to fix the TBI.
I have no doubts that you're smart and you read alot, but it takes something else to succeed at wrenching on the cheap. I can't yet tell if you're unintentionally over-complicating things, or what.
What I do suggest is you find yourself a second vehicle to drive while working on your Firebird.
If money is tight, you should be thinking of a used Vortec 350 that comes from one of those places that gives you a guarantee of some sort. Not a $150 engine from Pick-N-Pull, even though they do have a 30-day exchange policy, but more like a $500 engine from someplace like AA Midwest or LKQ.
Get the long-block, put it on a stand, clean it up as well as you can, do pull the oilpan if it has one, to inspect things, but don't loosen anything in there. Also don't take the heads off.
Then begin getting it ready to go into the car.

 

Saying that carb swapping cost me 2k was an oversimplification.

Firstly, I bought 3 carbs (lol). The first was a $75 holley spread bore DP that once cracked open turned out to be junk. Not wanting to spend what it would cost to fix a carb that components are not common for, I got a second holley 600 cfm VS. (bout 60 bux) This carb upon installation also ended up being crap. Leaked like a sieve. Being in a hurry, I bought a THIRD and final carb, a 1406 edelbrock (which I'm very happy with) but brand new the pricetag was about 250 + tax.

While taking the top apart, I bought new springs (50), new seals (came with springs), a FPR (70ish), all the hoses (30ish), an L98 cam (50), an intake (100), and 416 heads (240 shipped) that I pocket ported (Free!). There's a long explanation somewhere of my screwing it up the first time around which ended up running me a hefty bit extra(150 in seals and pushrods don't ask!). Not to mention I paid some shady dudes to do it up the second time (500) because I'm unbelievably lazy and bad with money!

We can add about 150 on top of that in doodads and stuff that ended up not working. I've got the operation and application down, it's just the 'on the cheap' I can't seem to master!

Alas, that paycheck's gotta go somewhere.

Perhaps I should include that I DO infact have a daily driver that sucks up about 319 a month for the next three years or so