i know the basic method of adjusting my timing, but i am curious if the timing (as read on the pointer thing) is even correct.
is there a way to check this without pulling a head and checking for TDC?
the reason i ask is because i would like to button down the timing for sure.

this all started when i discovered that i had a hole in the distributor cap from one of the screws that held the rotor on flying off...
i fixed the rotor, and put the distributor back where i thought it should be (based on marks on the firewall and rotor, but now the car feels a lot more sluggish.
so i advanced the timing some (but forgot to check where it was before i messed with it and also forgot to unplug the brown wire)

now i think my timing is all messed up.


before, even with the screw missing from the rotor, i needed premium to keep from having severe detonation
now i can run regular with no trouble and the car feels noticably slower below 2500 rpms and requires more pedal to "get up and go"

once i get to about 3000 it picks up some, but still feels like its less than before

 

Didn't we already do a thread on you an advance curve?
Okay, if you want to start from zero, you'll need a piston stop that screws in through the spark plug hole, and you'll need to pull your accessories to put a drgree wheel on your crank. from there you can figure out where true TDC is, then remove the piston stop, put the engine at TDC, (#1 cyl) and remove the degree wheel. then clean your damper and put a new timing tape on it, then put the accessories back on.

 

not that i know of, but im pretty forgetful.

ok.
i was hoping there was a way to tell from the valves or something.

as for getting my timing right, if i understand correctly, the tan wire controls the electronic advance, so if i advance the timing with the distributor, all i am really doing is fooling the computer... right?