when i am releasing the clutch and adding a little bit of gas a very strange almost electrical type of high pitch buzzing sounds start coming from it FOR EXAMPLE

when i pull into my drive way and inch off the clutch and add bare minimum of gas ( actually any gas....but its when im inching off the clutch ....turning ...pulling into driveways .etc.)it starts to scream in the wierd buzzing noise i can feel vibration in the shifter

QUESTION could this be a throw-out bearing?

my dad said its power steering and i fillied it up recently its been getting worse and worse
any advice would help i would just like to fix this before a bigger problem happends

 

when your sitting idle and rev it up does it squeel.

 

no only when you start to ride the clutch and usually only when it has to go up a hill
it doesent do it when turning downhills
only up hills or turning on flat ground
preety much anytime i have to use torque while i have the clutch in
like making a U turn etc.

 

Humm so you saying if you partly have the clutch in and revving you get the noise. Does it make the same noise even with the wheel straight

 

yes even when the wheel is not being touched
as exactly when i have the clutch partly in and im letting it go slowly to inch foward

 

No mystery there that I can detect. Sounds pretty straightforward....

Clutch disc is worn down to the rivets.

The disc is a friction lining, exactly like brakes. When you have it partially engaged, the 2 parts are slipping against each other, exactly like brakes. When the lining wears down far enough, it exposes the rivets that hold it together, exactly like brakes. When the rivets are exposed, it squeals and shrieks and makes any number of other possible metal-to-metal grinding and scraping noises, exactly like brakes. When the rivets hit the metal, the metal gets destroyed, exactly like brakes. In the case of the clutch however, the disc has linings on both sides and is sandwiched between 2 pieces of metal, either or both of which could be getting destroyed; on the one side is the clutch itself which of course gets replaced when the clutch is replaced (duh), and on the other side is the flywheel. One can only hope that it isn't the flywheel side that's fornicated, because if it is, you now have "saved" enough money by putting off the necessary repair, to where you have to buy a new one; again, exactly like brakes: except that instead of a rotor for like $15-20, it's a flywheel for about $150.

You need to STOP DRIVING THE CAR before anything else gets torn up. Like, if you're lucky so far and the clutch side of the disc is the one that's worn through but the flywheel side is still OK and you don't have to buy a whloe new one yet but only have to get your existing one resurfaced, you don't want to continue driving it until that's impossible and it too has to be replaced. It's already expensive enough, I'm thinking.

Make sure you re-assemble the throwout bearing to the fork correctly, so your next post isn't a bunch of stuff about "my transmission grinds" and "I can't put my car in gear with the engine running" and "how do I bleed my clutch" (which is NEVER needed unless the hydraulics are opened up, so 99% of the time when you see people ask that it's because they put the TOB together wrong but they would rather blame the hydraulics than their own mistake) and stuff like that. Search the drive train forum for my user ID and "throwout assemble" or some such, and you'll get to see my famous pics of both how to and how not to do it.

 

so i have to resurface the flywheel or what ever has lost its rivets and iv'e been driving the car even drove it to Mexico and back it stopped doing that i can tell havn't heard it in for like a day or two now
but it doesent sound as if metal is grinding more of like some kind of electrical whining or vibrating of some sort
also when i bought the car the guy said it had a new clutch(but that's his sales words)

 

trying to find a shop to resurface the clutch disk but no luck just clutch stores and people who say they used to

do i have to take the clutch disk out myself for anybody to look at it
any suggestions

 

Some one else said it sounds like a bearing problem and that to resurface disk nobody will take it out and resurface it so he said clutch kit is 400$ for brand new OE one and labor is 350 is that worth it?