Alright, so sometimes, doesn't matter if the car is hot or cold, the solenoid in the starter doesn't seem to want to engage, now I know your thinking, just replace the starter, well there's this thing I think is a relay that the PO's added, and, wouldn't you know it? It was some nonsense to bypass VATS.

Anyhow, I'm not sure if the relay isn't sending enough power or if the solenoid isn't engaging. If I had a camera I'd record every time I started the car 'cause it does it about once every three times.

Basically I try to start it, there is an audible, "click" noise, just once, then I try again, sometimes it does it three or four times, then it starts fine. The starter is not weak once it engages, I'm just not sure if I should look into the aftermarket "relay" or not. Also, the "relay", or whatever it is, has three wires, all of them are red, about 8 gauge, and I know at least one goes to the starter.

Pictures of what I think is a relay:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...d/100_1456.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1.../100_1451.jpg?

So, yeah, any insight on what might be causing this? Could the "relay" be sending too little power?

If this where a factory starter I'd just go straight to the starter, but this isn't.

 

That is a approved mod for starter performance (not your current problem but heat soak causes the contacts inside starter to have more resistance so stater doesn't work ) but appears to be wired strange.
Is usual to use the new relay to switch the main current from the battery direct to the starter ( 2 big terminals on relay )
and bypass the internal solenoid power contacts
How that is wired ;it only appears to be only switching the solenoid current?

The clicking would indicate the solenoid is getting power correctly but the contacts are not transmitting the power to the starter
How old is the starter ;maybe the contacts are getting worn?

 

Not sure, PO's put it on there when they resealed the engine at about 140k, it had about 143k on it when we got it, it's got about 150k now, about a year later.

It seems that thing on the fender is tied to a terminal block which goes to the hot lead of the alternator, and, seems to have a plug that use to go to the fan, I'm quite confused with that wiring mess now, I'll get some photo's of it today.

Also, what appears to be the hot lead off the alternator has a black wire.

 

Alright, made a diagram of sorts of how they installed the solenoid on the fender.

 

I would pull that crap out and wire the starter the way it's supposed to be. I bypassed the VATS system on a friend's car doing the following. I measured the ohms resistance of the chip in the key. I then cut the two small gray wires going to the key switch and soldered in a resistor of the same ohms resistance measured on the key between the two wires. This was covered with heat shink tubing to complete. The car started everytime using a regular non-VATS GM key.

 

To be honest, I wouldn't even know where to begin to undo what the previous owners have done. I'm kind of afraid to mess with it for fear of making my car undrivable.