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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 10:09 AM
  #1  
draco1366's Avatar
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fuel pump...

(insert dramatic music) need to replace my fuel pump (95% sure its that) what is the best/ easiest way to go about it. ok with the "trap door method"
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 12:02 PM
  #2  
fervernt's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 578
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From: Colorado Springs
Car: 91 firebird Formula 350
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: N/A, working on a t5 swap
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi
Re: fuel pump...

the trap door method is the easiest way to do it hands down. but I don't like the idea of sparks being that close to gas and gas fumes. and you would be doing some sparking while you cut out that door. It also weakens the structural integrity of the rear of the car. If it were me I would just drop the tank and do it the old-fashioned way. Shortcuts aren't always the best ways to go. but either way, I believe there are good write-ups how to do it on here.
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 01:12 PM
  #3  
ASE doc's Avatar
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From: Aurora, OR
Car: 87 IROC Z28
Engine: 355 cid TPI
Transmission: Custom Built 700R4 w/3,500 stall
Axle/Gears: QP fab 9" 3.70 Truetrac
Re: fuel pump...

I have done several 3rd gen fuel pumps and would never dream of cutting the floor on one. The job just isn't that bad.

Like many repairs on modern vehicles you just have to remove the necessary parts to perform the job. Otherwise you will fight it alot more than you need to and end up realizing that you just can't get the tank out without removing the necessary parts.

First, raise the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands or a lift if you have access to one. Then, detach the brake line to the rear brakes from the body. There is no need to open the brake system. The steel line will flex enough without damage. Now support the rear axle with a floor jack, unbolt the rear shocks from the axle, lower the axle and let it hang. Next, detach the rear exhaust behind the catalytic converter and at the rear hangers. Remove the rear exhaust. Detach the fuel lines and vapor lines at the left frame rail. Disconnect the electrical connector above and in front of the tank. Hopefully you have left as little fuel in the tank as possible to reduce the weight. Detach the straps and lower the tank while supporting it with a floor jack, or just have a friend help you wrestle it out. Be sure to clean the tank around the sender opening before opening it up or you'll get dirt and crap in the tank.

If the pump you remove has the pulsator between the pump and the sender, replace it with the hose and clamps provided with the pump. I advise that you install a new filter sock and fuel filter with the new pump. Check the tank for sediment and drain and flush it out with gasoline as needed. Check the o-rings at the fuel line connections and replace them if they are damaged in any way.
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 01:23 PM
  #4  
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From: Glen Park, NY
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: TPIS II Supercharged w/Nitrous
Transmission: 700R4 Probuilt
Axle/Gears: 3:73 Richmond 12 Bolt
Re: fuel pump...

Did it last year on my car, was an out and in project that took just over 3 hours total.. It isn't bad at all..
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 04:31 PM
  #5  
ASE doc's Avatar
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From: Aurora, OR
Car: 87 IROC Z28
Engine: 355 cid TPI
Transmission: Custom Built 700R4 w/3,500 stall
Axle/Gears: QP fab 9" 3.70 Truetrac
Re: fuel pump...

One thing that can make it interesting is aftermarket exhaust or factory exhaust that is badly rusted. On my 3" system, I just took the exhaust loose from the muffler and loosened the down pipes from the headers. That gave me just enough room to get the tank down. If the bolts that attach the rear exhaust to the cat are badly rusted, you may have a hard time getting them loose. Lots of penetrating oil and maybe some heat will help.
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 05:45 PM
  #6  
Edwardgp's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Washington State
Car: 1983 BB 1995 Z28 Camaro's
Engine: 454-350
Transmission: TH350-4l60e
Axle/Gears: 373 posi-Stock
Re: fuel pump...

You can also replace the rusted hanger bolts with stainless steel.
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