Building my 87 camaro.

I need a little help with this set up Im planning to put this motor in my car
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-SBC-383-STAGE-2-2-CRATE-MOTOR-ENGINE-470hp-BUILT-WITH-A-DART-RACING-BLOCK-/350804791580?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51ad98511c&vxp=mtr
Cool enough right? Was also planning to swap it from a auto to a manual and my idea was putting a stock t56 behind the motor and doing a 4.10 rear end.

Now i know that the chassis are not the greatest and they twist with the excess amount of torque that this motor is going to produce. So what mods can i or should i do to the chassis so i dont destroy the chassis.
Your suggestions and thoughts are highly appreciated i do need the help

 

I notice the build has pro comp aluminum heads. I just bought the same pair for $550. Get some subframe connectors, new rear shocks, and an adjustable panhard bar.

 

What about wheel size? How wide can I go in the rear without mods

 

If that motor does put out that, you need to start planning on replacing the rearend.

 

Ah, good ol' Skip White. Sure wish that guy would learn English.

Could you be more specific about the "drag" part? Are you just going to the track to have fun, or to win? Can we assume bracket racing? Any other type of competitive drag racing would take the "street" part out of the equation.

If you're planning on bracket racing, forget the T56. Consistency is the key, and unless you face plate the T56 gears, you'll kiss consistency goodbye. And, if you face plate the T56, you can kiss regular street driving goodbye (yes, you could drive it to the track, but daily driving would be a pain).

A TH700 is fine for a dual-purpose street/strip car. You will need it improved a little, like shift improver kit (Transgo is a good one), Vette servo and relief valve. The Transgo "Jr" kit is also a good idea, for the 3-4 clutch pack springs (which will require transmission disassembly to install). With the single plane intake and "choice #1" cam, you'll want at least 4000 RPM stall - yes, you'll still be able to drive it on the street. Get a lockup converter. Oh, if I'm reading this correctly, the '87 has a V6 in it now. You'll need to get a V8 version TH700. The '88-'92 ones are a little better than the earlier ones.

Ditto the subframe connectors. Don't even consider not doing them. When you put the 6-point roll bar in, that will further help to stiffen the chassis.

I hope you plan on sticky tires for the track. Running the tires you drive on the street is not a good idea.

And, ditto the rear end stuff. Especially with manual transmission and sticky tires, don't even show up to the track with a factory rear end, regardless of what you do with it. 9-inch, 12-bolt, Strange S60 - any of those would do. Even with an automatic tranny, with that much power (if the engine actually puts out that much power), you don't want to trust it to a factory 10-bolt (or 9-bolt).

 

I don't think I'd trust skip white for a crate motor. I looked into one, doubted the parts being able to take the abuse he claimed the motor made. Called him and he couldn't even tell me the deck height on the motor I was about to order. Don't get why he uses an aftermarket block and the cheapest crank/rods he can get his hands on.

 

I don't like Skip's 383 assemblies or motors. He always uses externally balanced setups, and that's just silly since the cost difference is honestly negligable for something so critical (in my opinion). You can do better for the same cost.

 

If that engine sounds too good to be true.. it probably is. I would find a local machine shop in your area that the bracket racers use... that will be you best choice.

The 700 trans is OK at that power level, I did it for years but the more your race it.. the more you need to look at other upgrades.. the sun shell.. The planetaries & red alto clutch packs.. this will give the 700 additional strength for track days.

If you plan to really beat on it at the track and want peace of mind I would consider a 400 trans swap. My car is not a daily driver anymore... so I went this route.. manual valve body, trans brake, etc. etc.

Nitto 555Rs are great street /strip rear tire, Nittos you can get them 245 50 R16... same as the oem tire size.
I believe M/T ET streets come in 16" size also.. but I used Nittos for years.

The stock rear end is junk at this power level.

Also with sub-frame connectors invest in a driveshaft loop...

 

What would be possible? Im really trying to get ariund 500+ horses out if this

 

http://www.straubtechnologies.com/rotation-assemblies/


The budget kit there would probably get the job done nicely.

 

Still trying to figure out what trans to use. Its not staying auto its going to a 5 or 6 speed. The wheels are im changing to a staggered look im planning 17x8s in the rear ans 15x7s in the front so what would be the biggest width i could do in the rear? Also for the rear end i was thinking doing 3.42 gears but since this is my 1st 3rd gen build i dont beleive i can dump 373 gears

 

don't do a 5 speed unless you like a grenade sitting underneath your feet. Either that, or spending a boatload on a TKO swap.