Starts but won't stay running.
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Car: 1987 Iroc Z28
Engine: 305
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Starts but won't stay running.
I have a 87 305 tpi. I bought this car with the motor out of it that was supposed to have been rebuilt. From the looks of the heads and the motor itself I believe it had been. That being said, before I put the motor back in the car I put all new components on it. Dist, plugs, wires, fuel injectors (South Bay 19lb), knock sen, oil pressure sen and switch, coolant temp sen and switch. I also converted it over to a serp setup with new alt, water pump, power steering pump and belt.
I dropped the motor in the car and got everything hooked up. The car wouldn't start and with the help of vetto on here narrowed it down to the fuel pump. Replaced that along with a new filter. There was a little gas left tin the tank so I put 10g of 91oct in and a bottle of stable in. The car fired right up bet then died often a out 5 sec.
After doing some double checking that the motor was at top dead center and that all the wire were in there correct spot I started it again. It did the same thing. Now if I keep my foot on the gas it will stay running but is very rich. I have tried to advance and retard the timing ( by turning the dist) but nothing is working. I have unplugged the esc and that doesn't work either. I can't get a idea of where why trimming is because I can't keep it running long enough to use the timing light.
The only thing that I can think of is that maybe my injector wires are mixed up? How would I go about checking this? Not firing in the right order?
The A.I.R system and heat/ac has been removed.
9th injector/ cold start has been removed.
EGR has been blocked off
The TB has the coolant bypass. There are only the 2 vac lines hooked to the TB
There are 2 vac line on the back of the plenum one closest to the from of the car goes to the FPR and the other goes to the T by the brake booster.
Not sure where to go from here. I checked for codes with a paper clip and the service engine light will only flash 12 once. Computer problem? I have not had any new chips burned for the mods that I have done yet. Could this be the problem?
I believe this is as much info as I can think to give so far.
Thanks for any help in advance
Keith
I dropped the motor in the car and got everything hooked up. The car wouldn't start and with the help of vetto on here narrowed it down to the fuel pump. Replaced that along with a new filter. There was a little gas left tin the tank so I put 10g of 91oct in and a bottle of stable in. The car fired right up bet then died often a out 5 sec.
After doing some double checking that the motor was at top dead center and that all the wire were in there correct spot I started it again. It did the same thing. Now if I keep my foot on the gas it will stay running but is very rich. I have tried to advance and retard the timing ( by turning the dist) but nothing is working. I have unplugged the esc and that doesn't work either. I can't get a idea of where why trimming is because I can't keep it running long enough to use the timing light.
The only thing that I can think of is that maybe my injector wires are mixed up? How would I go about checking this? Not firing in the right order?
The A.I.R system and heat/ac has been removed.
9th injector/ cold start has been removed.
EGR has been blocked off
The TB has the coolant bypass. There are only the 2 vac lines hooked to the TB
There are 2 vac line on the back of the plenum one closest to the from of the car goes to the FPR and the other goes to the T by the brake booster.
Not sure where to go from here. I checked for codes with a paper clip and the service engine light will only flash 12 once. Computer problem? I have not had any new chips burned for the mods that I have done yet. Could this be the problem?
I believe this is as much info as I can think to give so far.
Thanks for any help in advance
Keith
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Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 383 SP EFI/ 4150 TB
Transmission: T400
Axle/Gears: QP 9" 3.73
Re: Starts but won't stay running.
Some thoughts.
You say it is way rich , where is the fuel coming from?
Either the ECM ( for whatever reason ) is supplying the wrong amount of fuel
or you have a fuel leak direct into the intake.
How did you delete the cold start?
Check the vac line from the FPR to the intake ,see if there is fuel in that line.
If so, the diaphragm is broken and raw fuel is going straight into the engine as soon as the pump starts
Last edited by vetteoz; 10-21-2013 at 05:59 PM.
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Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 383 SP EFI/ 4150 TB
Transmission: T400
Axle/Gears: QP 9" 3.73
Re: Starts but won't stay running.
Remove the cover and check the memcal inside (prom ) is correctly seated into it's socket.
What is the 4 letter code on the memcal ?
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: auto/stock
Axle/Gears: stock
Re: Starts but won't stay running.
did you even mention if it ever ran prior to you replacing a whole bunch of items? most people will take video of the engine running as PROOF that it indeed used to run after they yank it to provide evidence it's a good engine.. otherwise, you are rolling the dice..
#5
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Car: 1987 Iroc Z28
Engine: 305
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Starts but won't stay running.
I have never heard or seen the motor run previous of the purchase. I bought the car with the motor out of it. The guy that I bought it from had the rec from the rebuild. But with that being said the car does fire and run. Just won't stay running. I did do a little more investigating today and found the valve leash was way out. But in doing so I also discovered that there is no oil going to the heads. I will be replacing the oil pump tomorrow. I ordered a meling pump today.
Vetto I did check and the mem cal is fully seated. Pic attached.
Vetto I did check and the mem cal is fully seated. Pic attached.
#6
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Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 383 SP EFI/ 4150 TB
Transmission: T400
Axle/Gears: QP 9" 3.73
Re: Starts but won't stay running.
ACXT
'87 305 auto memcal
Should only ask the same question in one place
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...wont-stay.html
Makes it very hard to keep up with who is saying what when it is spread around the Forum
'87 305 auto memcal
Should only ask the same question in one place
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...wont-stay.html
Makes it very hard to keep up with who is saying what when it is spread around the Forum
#7
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Car: 1987 Iroc Z28
Engine: 305
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Starts but won't stay running.
Sorry I will delete that one and stick to this one. I wasn't getting any answers over there so I figured I would post here. Yes it is a 87, 305 tpi motor and computer. All my number match up. I looked local today to see if I could find a used computer in a bone yard and wasn't able to match it up. I might just end up getting a aftermarket so I can data log and tune. But I believe that I have found part of the problem. My valve lash was way out and wail doing so found that there is no oil in the heads. I'll be replacing the oil pump tomorrow and finishing the valve lash.
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Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 383 SP EFI/ 4150 TB
Transmission: T400
Axle/Gears: QP 9" 3.73
Re: Starts but won't stay running.
was used in many GM products,it doesn't have to be from a F-Body
Some but not all applications
BUICK SKYHAWK 19862.0L MT
CADILLAC CIMARRON /CAVALIER 1986 2.0L MT
CHEVROLET ASTRO VAN 1987 -90 2.5L
CHEVROLET CAMARO 1986 -89 TPI 5.0L and 5.7L
CHEVROLET CORVETTE 1986 -89 5.7L
1986 2.0 L4 TBI “P” LQ5 w/ MT
1987-91 truck 2.5 L4 TBI “E” LN8
1991 truck 2.5 L4 TBI “A” L38
CHEVROLET LM SERIES 19872.5L
You can tune and datalog the stock ECM with the right cable and free software
At the moment you have too many unknowns to just throw something at it and hope it is the cure
#9
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Car: 1987 Iroc Z28
Engine: 305
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Starts but won't stay running.
Yes I know what you mean about the unknowns. I'm going to start with the oil pump and valve lash and go from there. I will update tomorrow. Thanks for all your help again.
Keith
Keith
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Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 383 SP EFI/ 4150 TB
Transmission: T400
Axle/Gears: QP 9" 3.73
Re: Starts but won't stay running.
Check the most obvious source of a over fueling problem ;a leak into the intake somewhere.
Once you have confirmed the fuel system is sound and holding the correct pressure , then you can blame the ECM
Haven't said how you deleted the CSI ?
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Car: 1987 Iroc Z28
Engine: 305
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Starts but won't stay running.
I deleted the cold start with a block off plate from eBay. Came with a plate and a plug so that shouldn't be the problem. I will do a fuel pressure test tomorrow and see how long it holds pressure after key off. They are brand new injectors so I hope one isn't faulty. Will keep you posted.
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Car: 1987 Iroc Z28
Engine: 305
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Starts but won't stay running.
I'm trying to do everything right on this car. That's half the reason I bought everything new that might need to be replaced in the future. I was trying to cut down on problems like this.
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Car: 1987 Iroc Z28
Engine: 305
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Starts but won't stay running.
Ok so I finally got the old oil pump out and the new one in. Reason I had no oil pressure is that the rod from the pump to the dist was mia. Not to sure how that happens but it wasn't anywhere to be found. And let me just say that was one hell of a job. No I go to fire the car and city starts right up but, I have oil shooting out from a hole in the block right above the timing chain cover. It is a threaded hole. What is supposed to be there? Just a plug or a sensor of some type? I shut the motor off a soon as I seen oil shooting all over the place. Nothing more I can do till the parts store opens tomorrow.
Keith
Keith
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Car: 86 chevy camaro iroc, 82 chevy k20
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Re: Starts but won't stay running.
Mine did the same thing and it ended up the iac was all gummed up I replaced it and did the relearn and now it idles like a dream
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