Traded a 92 carbed lo3 and 700r4 for a lt1 4l60e with around 100k on it. I am planning to swap it into my 87 trans am. I popped the pan and valve covers today and everything looks clean inside. It spins free and sounds like it has good compression. Question is should I do a bearing/re ring or should I just do things like change water pump optispark, new cam and drop it in

 

What does the #1 rod bearing look like?

 

Cylinder 1 rod bearing and crank

 

If you're not down a car, it would probably be worth it to go ahead, break it down, and rebuild it.

It will never be easier to do than it is right now, with it all sitting out of the car.

 

this car is definitely not a daily driver and it will be lucky to be driven once a week once its finished, it will never see the track which is why im curious if it aint broke should i bother rebuilding it

 

If you trust that 100k claim and all looks good, run it as is. That's nothing unless it was severly abused.
Water pump....yeah, it's easy, so go ahead. They usually make it to 150k.
Don't touch the Opti......originals have gone in excess of 200k, replacements are a crapshoot.
Cam?.....are you upgrading?
Unlike my novice status with 3rd Gen's, I know a lot about LT1's

 

well i posted images of bearing and crank, all looks good to me unless you all see something else. i want to put a good mild cam in it, id like to have the engine at roughly 330-350 rwhp with cam intake and true dual exhaust

 

With headers and good exhaust, your hp target is achievable with a mild cam and rev limit that won't tax the un-rebuilt shortblock.
The Comp CC503 (224/230/112) is a classic recipe for 340-350 rwhp with 1.6 rockers and supporting valvesprings. That's the most cam I'd run with stock CR.
What do you plan for torque converter? If mild, you may want to step back a notch from the CC503 cam.
What rearend gears?

 

i was looking at the cc503 for my car. i was planning to just run my stock tc. right now my car has 2:73 posi however i was planning to switch to 3:2x or 3:4x

 

It will be a real dog at low rpm with the stock TC, especially with those 2.73's.
If you really intend to stick with the stock TC, forego your peak hp goal and pick a cam with intake duration in the 208-212 duration range; you'll have more power in the rpm band that you can actually use.
I'd recommend 3.42 gears MINIMUM.
TC and gearing mods will add far more performance to the car than a cam will.
I had my 3900+ lb ImpalaSS running low and mid 12's with the stock B-LT1 cam (191/195/111 !!). It had a 3400 converter and 4.10 gears

 

so what kind of power would i be looking at with stock tc smaller cam, what would be a good cam to look at

 

Something like a Comp CC501 or a custom cam with 212-214 intake duration from one of these:
www.advancedinduction.com
www.elliottsportworks.com

Power is dependent on so many other variables besides the cam. With a cam around 212 intake duration, you could be anywhere from 310 to 340 rwhp, depending on how good of a job you do with the rest of the details and the tune.

 

I plan to have my pcm tuned anyways to remove vats. What about the lt4 hotcam i know its a popular choice

 

The LT4 Hotcam is a poor choice with a stock TC.

 

I was looking at the comp cam 501 and it says not for lt1 on jegs

 

Here's the one for the LT1: http://www.compperformancegroupstore...&Category_Code=

The only difference in LT1 versus non-LT1 cams is the longer dowel pin to drive the Optispark. Some people just pull the short dowel out and press the longer one in for use in LT1's.

You can call Comp and get them to grind it on the 110 LSA with a 106 ICL, which would further help the lowend torque you'll need with that stock TC. Their "custom" grinds are just a few bucks more than the shelf cams.

 

need help identifying this, found it in the oil pan today, not sure if it is from the engine or fell in

 

I figured it out, it's to the oil level sensor

 

So still thinking this project through and if i wanted my engine about 330-350hp at wheel and i bump my gears to 3:73 what cam and stall converter should i be looking at. Im looking for streetable power, not strip

 

I have a 2200 stall on mine and it's very streetable, and I can get a good launch when I want.