Valve adjusting
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 916
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
Car: 91 Firebird,00 c2500,75 Vette
Engine: 3.1 but 350 soon, 350, 350
Transmission: T56 soon
Axle/Gears: stock 3.42 Posi to come
Valve adjusting
I am putting a hydraulic roller cam chevy 350 together and have only found conflicting information on how to adjust the valves. I would prefer to know how to do it with the engine running but will do the valves with it not running if need be.
All info says for not running 1/2, 3/4 or 1 turn past 0 lash. What is actually right? I tried 3/4 as my manual says and it does not run right.
I can not find any complete info on with engine running. What is starting setting and then how much turn after it quits ticking or rattling?
What do you suggest or reccomend?
All info says for not running 1/2, 3/4 or 1 turn past 0 lash. What is actually right? I tried 3/4 as my manual says and it does not run right.
I can not find any complete info on with engine running. What is starting setting and then how much turn after it quits ticking or rattling?
What do you suggest or reccomend?
Joined: Sep 2005
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Likes: 2,485
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Valve adjusting
All of those settings are "right". EVERY ONE.
What matters most, is ACCURATELY finding zero lash; then putting your choice of preload on them, CONSISTENTLY.
With it running, ONE AT A TIME back each one off until it taps loudly then re-tighten until it just shuts up. STOP. That's "zero lash". Go through all 16 that way as quickly as practical while still being accurate, to minimize the mess; might even have to go back and tweeeeek em a 2nd time. THen once you've got all 16 to zero, shut the motor off, and add your chosen preload of either ¼, ½, ¾, or 1 turn to them. Less preload for fewer high-RPM problems at the expense of more frequent maintenance; more preload for the opposite. I usually use ½ turn but it's really not very important as long as they're all the same.
What matters most, is ACCURATELY finding zero lash; then putting your choice of preload on them, CONSISTENTLY.
With it running, ONE AT A TIME back each one off until it taps loudly then re-tighten until it just shuts up. STOP. That's "zero lash". Go through all 16 that way as quickly as practical while still being accurate, to minimize the mess; might even have to go back and tweeeeek em a 2nd time. THen once you've got all 16 to zero, shut the motor off, and add your chosen preload of either ¼, ½, ¾, or 1 turn to them. Less preload for fewer high-RPM problems at the expense of more frequent maintenance; more preload for the opposite. I usually use ½ turn but it's really not very important as long as they're all the same.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,271
Likes: 171
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: Valve adjusting
Preload on a hydraulic lifter is roughly 0.030 - 0.060". This can be 1/4 to 3/4 of a turn from zero lash. As mentioned above, the first thing you need to do is find zero lash. Zero lash is when the lifter is on the base circle of the cam and the rocker nut is tightened down until it just takes out any sloppiness in the pushrod without actually pushing down on the pushrod. Tighten the nut 1/2 turn more to set the preload. The pushrod/rocker may feel loose a short time after being adjusted but that's the way a hydraulic lifter works. Don't tighten the rocker again after the initial adjustment. Move on to the next cylinder.
Hydraulic lifters have a tolerance range. As long as you're adjusted within that range, it will run just fine.
Hydraulic lifters have a tolerance range. As long as you're adjusted within that range, it will run just fine.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 916
Likes: 9
From: Wichita Falls, TX
Car: 91 Firebird,00 c2500,75 Vette
Engine: 3.1 but 350 soon, 350, 350
Transmission: T56 soon
Axle/Gears: stock 3.42 Posi to come
Re: Valve adjusting
I wish to thank both of you. I can understand the reasoning of Sofakingdom and much appreciate the added info from AlkylIROC.
This tells me much. First, I had a couple set wrong because of looseness of the rocker arm and second, they were close enough to run so I have something else wrong. (I now think I got the dizzy in one tooth off
just because of the way it runs and cranks.) I never put a distributor in wrong before. Oh Well, a first for everything.
I will be resetting everything tonight. I will be setting the valves at 1/2 turn after finding 0 lash with it running but first I will reset it to 1/2 turn with the engine not running for start up.
This tells me much. First, I had a couple set wrong because of looseness of the rocker arm and second, they were close enough to run so I have something else wrong. (I now think I got the dizzy in one tooth off
just because of the way it runs and cranks.) I never put a distributor in wrong before. Oh Well, a first for everything.I will be resetting everything tonight. I will be setting the valves at 1/2 turn after finding 0 lash with it running but first I will reset it to 1/2 turn with the engine not running for start up.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,271
Likes: 171
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: Valve adjusting
Recheck the plug firing order. It's real easy to mix up 5 and 7.
Rotation is clockwise. Firing order is 18436572
Rotation is clockwise. Firing order is 18436572
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