Oil pressure gauge maxs out, Engine bogs down
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1
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From: Tennessee
Car: 1992 Heritage Edition RS
Engine: 305 H.O.
Transmission: 700R4 Built
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Positive Traction
Oil pressure gauge maxs out, Engine bogs down
I have a 1992 Camaro with a TBI 305. When the engine is cold if it revs above 2500 rpm the oil pressure gauge will max out way past the 60psi mark until the needle can't go any further. As soon as the pressure rises the engine starts to bog and lose all power until the transmission shifts (700R4). I'm not sure if the pressure rise is just the gauge malfunctioning or not, but I have no clue as to what is going on. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,879
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Oil pressure gauge maxs out, Engine bogs down
What's going on is, your engine is cold.
This causes 2 things: relatively high oil pressure (because the oil is still basically candle wax) and consequently low oil flow, which in turn means poor lubrication, which in turn again, means the engine is not ready to have any significant load put on it because you'll just tear it up; and, since fuel doesn't evaporate well when it's cold, a lean mixture with occasional large blobs of solid liquid fuel (which doesn't burn) instead of vapor.
Solution is, let your car warm up a bit before driving it. Doesn't have to be "all the way" warm, just, learn from your experience, and don't drive it until the symptoms you asked about, have cleared up.
Then, be glad you live in TN and not somewhere that's actually cold.
You'd just have to wait a bit longer.
This causes 2 things: relatively high oil pressure (because the oil is still basically candle wax) and consequently low oil flow, which in turn means poor lubrication, which in turn again, means the engine is not ready to have any significant load put on it because you'll just tear it up; and, since fuel doesn't evaporate well when it's cold, a lean mixture with occasional large blobs of solid liquid fuel (which doesn't burn) instead of vapor.
Solution is, let your car warm up a bit before driving it. Doesn't have to be "all the way" warm, just, learn from your experience, and don't drive it until the symptoms you asked about, have cleared up.
Then, be glad you live in TN and not somewhere that's actually cold.
You'd just have to wait a bit longer. Thread
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