Hello, everyone.

Short background on my project:

Picked up an 84 Trans Am that looked like it was in really good shape. However, while doing preparation for some interior updates, I found some really nasty rust issues. Basically, the driver's front floor pan was nearly completely gone. A previous owner had just thrown a piece of sheetmetal over the hole, unsecured, and then threw the carpeting back down over it.

After some looking around, I managed to find a 90 Firebird that, while it has a decent dent in the rear after peeling off the bumper, has significantly less rust than the 84. I'm going to fix the few rust issues it has, POR-15 the crap out of it, and then swap over virtually everything from the 84. Both are T-Top and Automatic cars, so should work out OK (I hope).

I've accomplished most of the rust repair, but I still have a couple of finger sized spots to fix. Next I'll POR-15 the floor pans, trunk pan, undercarriage, and engine compartment. I have a feeling I'm going to get the crap all over me, haha!

Since there's no motor in the new body, I decided to build up a 350 to fill the void. A buddy of mine has one of those big 1990 Chevy conversion vans with a 350 & 700R4 combo in it that I managed to get for a heck of a deal. Transmission was rebuilt 20K miles ago, and originally sat in a police car I guess. Aside from that I still have the 700R4 from the 84 if that doesn't work out for whatever reason. The motor has 86K on it and is a TBI motor I believe.

Aside from all of this, I had originally gotten the 84 for my step-father and I to rebuild. Unfortunately, my "dad" untimely passed away shortly after getting the car last fall. As such, a large part of this rebuild is to honor him. At some point in the project I need to figure out how and where to memorialize him on the car somehow.

Anyways, I haven't pulled the motor yet so I'm not 100% sure what I have yet, but here's more or less what I'm thinking.

Targeted CR: 9.5-10:1


Carb: Edelbrock 750 1407 (Already Own)
Intake: Edelbrock RPM Air Gap 7516
Heads: Pro Topline 906 Vortec (Already Own)
Valve Train: Unsure - Machinist has a recommendation, but haven't heard it yet
Rockers: 1.6 Roller Tip
Cam: Comp Cams 280HR
Dizzy: GM HEI (Already Own) + Aftermarket Module (Most Likely)
Pistons: Stock unless otherwise needed
Rods: Stock unless otherwise needed
Crank: Stock unless otherwise needed

Questions:

1) I'm going to need something other than a stock torque converter. Comp Cams recommends 2500+. Now, I'm not sure if it means 2500+ flash or not. That being said, assuming I use my 3:73 rear, any recommendations?

2) If someone has any experience and/or a recommendation on reworking a stock oil pan with some baffling so I can try and safe some cash, that'd be awesome.

3) Timing Chain - Stock replacement or...?

4) Is there any good reason to use anything more than a stock replacement oil pump?


Any additional recommendations are welcome.

Thanks!
-Mike

 

2500 converter should be fine. That cam is very similar to lt4 hotcam.

I'd rather buy an oil pan with baffling to be honest.

You could use a stock timing set if you want, but most people want a double roller.

Oil pump should have 10 psi of pressure for every 1000 rpm's, so a Z28 or high pressure pump is cheap insurance since that cam makes power to 5500 rpm. High volume is overrated in my opinion, because it can run the pan empty. Not something I'm comfortable with.

I think you should get some hyper-eutectic pistons, but other than that your rotating assembly should be fine with proper machine work.

 

Rock Auto has some hypers that are priced real well, so perhaps that won't be so bad.

Unfortunately I don't know who's reputable as far as torque converters goes. Could you make a recommendation? I don't imagine I need anything too crazy (or expensive) for this build.

Also, what are the odds I'll be able to stuff all this under a non-cowl hood?

 

EDIT: I just re-read your first post, and realized you're using an Edelbrock intake. I can't comment on whether that will fit under the stock hood or not.

 

Well, it's not that big of a deal. If it doesn't fit I'll just have to fabricate something. I just can't justify spending $500+ on a hood, you know?

And just for anyone interested... Pulling motors out of full size vans isn't any fun at all, haha. Stupid doghouse.

 

Well here we are about 7 months later.

What's been accomplished:
K-Member KBS Coated
A-Arms KBS Coated
Engine Compartment KBS Coated
Internal Side floor KBS Coated
PS Door Replaced
DS Door Dent Repaired
Front Aluminum Impact Bar Swapped
Rear Hatch area Dent Repaired
Floor Rust Repaired
Rear Wheel Well Rust Repaired
Underbody freshly undercoated
New Poly Bushings All Around (Except Torque Arm)
New Tie Rods, Ends, Ball Joints
New Rotors, all four corners
New Stillen Metal Matrix Brake Pads
New Founders Strut Mounts
New Founders Adjustable LCAs
New Founders Adjustable Panhard Bar
New KYB Excel-G Struts up front
New KYB Gas-A-Just Shocks in back
New Moog Springs all around
Torsen Differential Installed
New Bearings\Seals Installed Front\Rear
Dash Components Swapped
Internal\Brake Wiring Installed
Carpet Swapped (Although I probably should replace it)
Fuel Tank Swapped
New Carter CRT-P4600HP Fuel Pump Installed

Left to do:
Reinstall Fenders
Reinstall Hood
Find a new impact bar for the rear
Install rear hatch glass\deck lid
Reinstall Seats
Reinstall Center Console
Reinstall Trim Panels
Reinstall Hatch Release
Install Steering Box
Prime\Minor Filler work
Paint
Install Motor\Transmission
Install Driveshaft
Install Torque Arm

Work in Progress:
Motor is stripped and needs to get dropped off at the machine shop to have it cleaned up, new frost plugs installed, and see how much we need to take out of the bores to clean it up. I'm guessing a hone would do it.

I originally planned on reusing the entire bottom end, but I'll likely replace the pistons at the very least with some flat top Speed Pros. Since I'd like to run floating pins, I may go ahead and get myself some Scat I-Beams, too. That' cut some machining cost so I think it won't be much more cost overall.

My heads are done. New 2.02\1.6 stainless valves, springs with dampers good to .600 lift. 1.6 full roller rockers. I *might* clean up the exhaust ports a bit with paper rolls. I was thinking about polishing out the combustion chambers, too. I'm trying to decide if it's worth taking the valvetrain all apart to do it.

I need to swap tail housings on the transmission for the torque arm mount, and also to get the mechanical drive speedo setup. I also need to decide on a kit to install.

I Need to purchase exhaust components. Presently thinking ebay long tubes and either run 2.5 duals all the way back, or merge into a 3.25 or 3.5 single.

I also need to make a final decision on how I'm building this motor. I need to source the roller lifter components (lifters, dogbones, spider), and decide if I'm going to stick with my v-belt setup or try and find a serpentine setup that will fit. My dreams are filled with 383s, turbos, and superchargers, but I find myself asking if I really need any of that. My current motor components and plans are as such:

350 Roller Block, 2-bolt Mains
Polished stock crank
New Scat 5.7" I-Beams**
New Speed Pro Flat Tops, 5cc Valve Relief**
Production style roller tappets, dogbones, and spider**
Pro Topline 906 Vortec heads (2.02/1.6 valves)
1.6 Full Roller Rockers
Professional Products Vortec Crosswind Intake**
Edelbrock 1407 750cfm Carburetor
Skip White HEI w/Accel 300+ Wires**
Circle D 2600 Stall Converter
Comp Cams Magnum Lobes 3119\3119 OEM Roller on an 108LSA, in at 4* Advanced** (Second guessing this)

(** Denotes that I have not purchased yet)

And of course there's a crap ton of stuff that I probably haven't even thought of yet. Using the above spec parts, I've been able to achieve the best possible results using virtual dyno programs. I haven't been able to find a cam that seems to work better. But that's off in la-la land, and doesn't necessarily equate to real world experience. Quite a few people have mentioned that I should look at adding duration to the exhaust side, but for some reason that doesn't seem to equate to any gains via vDyno. In fact, there were significant losses under the curve in most cases.

This is just more of an update than anything, but I'm all ears if anyone wants to share their wisdom.