Hi Guys,

I finally sorted the ignition wiring on the car and wanted to check if the motor would turn before finishing up the ECU wiring, as well as to prime the oil pump before actually starting the car and have hit a problem.
The car seems to turn over for a split second, and then nothing. No noise when i turn the key, but voltages are all going where they should.

I also took the serpentine belt off just to see if it was too much tension or something for the motor to push through
Chev Small Block Offset Angle Bolt Staggered HI Torque Starter 350 400 | eBay
(this is the starter I bought, its brand new)

Still nothing, so I jumped under the car to take a look and it looks like the starter may have wedged itself in, as the solenoid is still engaged/poking out when there's no voltage going to it.
Its too late now to start taking bits off, so I'll leave it till tomorrow, but assuming when I loosen the start motor bolts it retracts, will this just need me to put a few shims to drop the starter a bit and give less chance to wedge, or have i got a dodgy starter?

 

That starter looks new (assuming you didn't buy it 6 months ago and leave it in the box until you got around to installing it- which is what I usually do!). Return for a new one if possible. If the second one has the same problem try some shims.

Not saying you couldn't MAYBE fix that problem with shims but here's my rule for starters: Every single engine I've owned where the starter system worked so well I never even thought about it after a while HAD NO SHIMS UNDER THE STARTER. Straight onto the block. Every single engine I've owned where the starter system was tossing me problems over and over again had shims under it just to make it work halfway acceptably.

 

Haha, yes that is correct.
It sat in a box for a while before installing, but it should still be under warranty. I just want to make sure its not the install that's wrong and not the hardware.


I'll remove it this afternoon, or at least loosen and see if the bendix(I think that's the term) retracts and check all grounds then try again and see if it gets the same result or different with a shim or two.

 

you should be able to move the converter a little bit and the bendix should pop back in.

make sure good clean connections and proper battery voltage.

shims should be used if needed. if not, dont shim.

make sure your using the correct bolts for your block and starter. sometimes using the knurled bolts on the older blocks will split/crack the outside mounting bolt hole in the block. sometimes not using the knurled bolts where required, can allow the starter to move around a tiny bit as its being tightened. it all depends on the year block and starter used. many guys dont believe this, but end up wondering why the outside hole cracked.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Starter_motors

 

Thanks Joe, will do.
I'll check it all out and let you know what I find.
Cheers.

 

I'd try swapping the Starter for another new unit if possible and double checking the right starter bolts are being used. If the second starter is still too close,.... Then I'd try shimming a little. On newly installed engines I don't ever shim; If I'm just replacing a starter and there are already shims, I will re-use them.

Using regular bolts for a starter will not hold the starter to the block correctly and can cause a host of SIGNIFICANT problems over time. It's also important that the correct starter bolts are used...... Auto vs. stick starter bolts are not the same length for example. Older / used Starter bolts should be replaced when / if ANY wear marks are noticed on them. ( They wear-out, similar to caliper bolts )

 

This is exactly why you should check all the simple things first....

Checked grounds...yep all good, check ground battery terminal...all good
Checked main 12v 0-gauge wire to starter, its just resting against the battery terminal!

Attached and tightened and away it cranks, I've never heard anything more beautiful in my life.

I feel so stupid now haha.

Thanks guys for all the responses, but there's no solving stupidity LOL

Should be able to plug the PCM up in the next day or two after the last of the gauge wires are done and see if it can fire up

 

glad to hear you got it figured out, and it was an easy fix.