turboguard

As the title suggests, my brand new idle stop solenoid has been getting stuck open after I turn off my AC, leaving me with a high idle speed. I have to open the hood and physically push it down after which it disengages just fine. It even stays open while I drive around and giving me rpm's of a little over 1000 in first with my foot off the pedal. I have pretty strong throttle return springs on my linkage as well. Now, if this were an old solenoid I would obviously replace it, but this thing is brand spankin new and calibrated properly!

This is the one I bought:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....251245&jsn=400

So is the solenoid a lemon or is there something else going on?

turboguard

So it gets stuck open WHENEVER it activates, such as hard deceleration over 40 mph...could there be some underlying cause with my ECM or other electronics causing this or should I go ahead and get it warrantied?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you have it adjusted to have too much "authority".

Its ACTUAL purpose (the AC connection is purely incidental) is emissions: the idea is, it holds the throttle open a bit when you pop your foot OFF the gas, since when the throttle slams shut with the engine braking the car at cruising speed, it produces a YUUUUUJJJE blast of raw fuel and unburned hydrocarbons. It's controlled by the ECM.

The way it's supposed to work is, it should hold the throttle up until the engine RPMs decrease to some certain point (indicating that the engine is no longer braking the car so much), at which time it should drop out.

If you adjust it up too high, such as, if you try to make the idle RPM the same between AC on and off, it will NEVER drop out like it's supposed to. It doesn't have enough nads to open the throttle by itself anyway; only to hold it partway open after the driver has already opened it.

The part that contacts the throttle is the adjustment. Screw it in to lower the RPM when it's active. Try setting it to where the RPM idling out of gear with it kicked on (you can disconnect its wire and just alligator-clip-lead the coil to battery) at around 1200 - 1300 RPM. If it's over 1400 RPM, it for sure will never reach the condition while driving normally, where the ECM will let it drop out. Keep tweeeeking it until it allows the engine to decelerate smoothly.

I would have to wonder why you changed it out in the first place... I've never seen one go bad, other than damage. (the terminal breaking off for example) Not that it "can't" break, just that it DOESN'T break very often. The reason for your choice might reveal something useful about what's going on.

turboguard

Well the main reason I bought a new one is because when I bought the car it didn't even have one

Thanks for the advice though, I'll try adjusting it like you said and see if it makes a difference for me with it kicking off properly

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Well that explains that, I guess...