Well, like the title says, I ate a rod bearing I picked up the lower used (almost a decade ago)and wasn't aware of any issues but in the end it went clank clank, (not sure if it was my fault with the EBL learning cure or if it was a previous mechanical issue), and had to be redone. So I bought a new short block and I'm starting over:

New lower end is a 355ci@ 10.5:1 with these heads.
LT4 Hotcam.
113 heads, 1.6 rockers and appropriate springs - unh, if I could do it over again I would.
Airgap intake - again, unh, if I could do it over I would.
80lb injectors, with VAFPR.
Complete Ultimate TBI mods.
Complete MAC headers and exhaust.
MAC headers and exhaust - they suck with the 113 heads, plugs are a



Dyno 2000 engine build<br/>

I had the injectors cleaned at WitchHunter, I have to say those guys are top notch. So I now know they are 82psi at 24lbs. This can help with my calc for EBL (don't think I need to mess with the current bin). Can I get a yea or nea on the estimate that Dyno 2000 came up with as far as HP? 375? I will again start with the EBL_F_3001.BIN file as my base. I have since gotten rid of my Bosch NB02 and replaced it with Delco, and my IAC is within the base of the filter assy. Deleted AC, EGR, PCV and smog, plugged all ports on the TBI with the exception to the one that goes to the VAFPR. Based on how the last motor ran the base timing will be set to 8*. Is there anything that I missed, any comments about my ideas?

 

That's the best piece of advice to anyone who has some sort of internal damage. So many people don't realize how much work is involved to properly repair (spun rod bearing) damage. It's cheaper to just buy a new short block. The only time it may be economical to rebuild is if you have some exotic parts in the engine.

My bare Dart block is worth $3000. If I have to spend $1500 to repair it, it's cheaper than buying a new block but I've already replaced a Dart block once when it had a crack in the webbing of the mains. Not worth repairing so I got a new block. Same goes for a crankshaft. If it passes a magnaflux and can be turned down to repair the journals, it's cheaper than buying a new $1200+ crankshaft.

For a typical performance street engine that doesn't have high end aftermarket parts, a new engine is far cheaper than trying to repair the old one.

8* base timing is a little low for that camshaft. With a duration @ 0.050 of 218/228, base timing should be in the 10-12 range.

Dyno 2000/2003 is good for playing "what if". The accuracy of the output depends on the accuracy of the input. I have good numbers for my engine including very close head flow numbers and DD still doesn't give a high accuracy on the engine performance. It's only good to give you a ballpark number and to give you an idea what would happen if you changed something.

If you really want to know how much power the engine makes, you need to put it on a real dyno. An engine dyno is good to find the torque curve for converter stall selection. A chassis dyno tells you how much power is actually getting to the wheels to move the car and neither will be close the the desktop dyno numbers.

 

Cam specs are dead on and they are stock 113 heads the data was taken from this site as specified on Like you said just need to be in the ballpark for fueling. I am pretty sure that my biggest problem came from the fact that I was under the impression that I had 80# injectors after seeing the WitchHunter sheet it appears that my setup should more closely resemble the fueling for EBL_F_2025.BIN. They flow 82# @24psi. So unless I am wrong in the BPC calc, my fuel pressure is at 24 and Inj Flow Rate is at 60 whcich gets my Single injector flow to 81.5. Then I crank up the Fuel pressure to 38? making them about 102.6, for a total of 388 supported HP?
I think I have that right.

 

So I have a fueling question. I re read my WithchHunter datasheet. My injectors are 82# @ 14.5 psi. As far as the EBL_Utility is concerned I'm trying to fix my BPC numbers, this is how I extrapolated the numbers.



RBob, any comment on this?

Hopefully starting the car on Saturday, and I can't afford another bottom end... lol

 

Since only the short block is being changed, using the same cam & heads. I wouldn't do much at all with the BIN. First priority is to get the engine up and running and the rings seated.

Once that is done adjustments to the fuel pressure for more flow can be made. Along with the appropriate BIN changes.

The fuel pressure versus flow and HP supported you posted look OK.

As for the failed rod bearing, two things in the tune can do it. First would be excessive detonation (incorrect SA). That can pound out the rod bearings to the point of failure.

The other would be from excessive richness washing out the rings and diluting the oil. The fuel saturated oil doesn't work very well at supporting/cooling the bearings.

RBob.

 

Thanks RBob...

 

RBob
I never thought about the second option. We took the pistons out to find multiple sets of compression rings lined up. IT explains the fuel smell in the gas. So it was a bad engine after all, my fault for not taring it completely down though. Kinda makes me feel better about my tuning skills.