SuperMacDaddy

about to come home from working a turnaround and want to budget about $2500 if possible, to $3000 max on rebuilding my 350 to a 383. I don't know a lot about making fast motors so if any knowledgeable doodZ here can help me I'd really appreciate it, I don't want to order mismatched parts and don't know a lot about buying the correct heads for a cam etc. anyways, I'd like to keep TPI, and I'm unsure about the stroker kit I should order, I was thinking of ordering this one http://shop.dssracing.com/383_CHEVY_E_SERIES_Rotating_Assembly_p/ra383sx.htm but I don't know if it's work spending the extra $300 vs every other 383 stroker kit
I was going to order the SD manifold and some vortec heads,and don't know what cam to go with. I'd like it to run as smooth as possible while achieving around 450rwhp what am I gonna need to make it happen?

also I will be paying a machine shop to rebuild the motor, not sure what that's going to cost but I've seen the average that people usually spend is around $800 on machining.
i live in the Rio Grande Valley where everything is dirt cheap so I would expect to pay a lot less.

P.S. the block in the motor is not the original L98, the original owner blew the motor and replaced it with another 350. Don't know why but it is slow, runs like **** it's probably easier to overtake people on the expressway in my 1.5L Ford Fusion

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

Hate to say it, but with a $2500 budget and $800 of it being machine shop labor, you're unlikely to afford a 383 build including Vortec heads and valve train.

The Vortec heads require a different TPI manifold base. That alone is $400.

A decent rotating assembly, properly balanced, etc is around $1000.

Valve train and camshaft is about $1000 for not-junk (Comp complete kit with springs, etc)

That's $3200 and doesn't include gaskets, and misc.

A 355 is more in your reach - reusing your crank and rods, etc.

GD

SuperMacDaddy

$3000 is what I can spend right now, I'm sure it will take time to build it but I need help getting the parts list together, I can reuse the heads I have now on the 383 after it's machined and put together while I buy and build the heads right?

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

Maybe. Depends on the camshaft you are going to use. I assume you will be going hydraulic roller cam if you plan on Vortec heads later? And how you go about doing the hydraulic roller cam setup depends on what block you start with. The fuel injection hydraulic roller cams will most likely require cylinder head work (valve springs, retainers, rockers, and guide modifications) on your existing heads to support the lift and ramp profiles of cams condusive to 383, performance, and fuel injection.

Generally speaking, to use old, nasty, poor flowing emissions era heads *without modification* is going to severely limit the cam choices for the build.

GD

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

Maybe it would be better to find another block to start out with. A 4 bolt hydraulic roller block for example. So you don't have to take the car out of commission. You don't know what's in it but it sounds like it's probably junk. Get the casting number off the block and from under the valve covers on the heads and post them. Then we can decide if you should pursue using it or find something more suitable.

GD