Tach Issues
#1
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Car: 1985 Chevrolet Camaro IROC Z
Engine: LB9 305 Rebulit Original to the car
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 RPO GU6
Tach Issues
The Tach in my 1985 IROC suddenly stopped working about a month ago. The Tach worked fine for about a 1,000 mile break in period on a rebuilt LB9. I am using a DUI HEI computer controlled distributor. With ignition off, Tach is pegged at 7000. With ignition on, also pegged at 7000.
Any ideas on possible fixes?
Shorted out/electrical? Recalibration/repair? Tach Filter? Etc.?
I am including a couple of pictures in case anyone has seen this before. Thanks for the help guys!
Ignition off.
Ignition on.
Any ideas on possible fixes?
Shorted out/electrical? Recalibration/repair? Tach Filter? Etc.?
I am including a couple of pictures in case anyone has seen this before. Thanks for the help guys!
Ignition off.
Ignition on.
#2
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Car: Yes
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Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Tach Issues
There may well not actually be anything at all wrong with it, besides maybe its accuracy.
Try taking off the bezel and moving the pointer to 0 by hand with the engine off, then see what it does.
The way those work, there's no "return spring" on the meter movement, like most meters have. Instead, they rely on 2 coils oriented 90° from each other that drive the movement, one that moves the pointer "north-south" so to speak, and one "east-west". That particular tach moves 270° from 0 to full-scale; 0 is "due south", about 2300 is due W, 4600 is due N, and 7000 is due E; when the key is on and the engine is off, the N-S coil is trying to drive it S that being where 0 is, and the E-W coil is off; but if the pointer is already too far around past E, then to get from there to S it has to go CW, which it can't because the OP gauge physically is in its way. The circuit is as dumb as a bag of sand, and lacks the intelligence (and of course any knowledge about the pointer's current location) to drive the pointer N first, then W, and THEN S, to get it to return all the way S to 0.
Try taking off the bezel and moving the pointer to 0 by hand with the engine off, then see what it does.
The way those work, there's no "return spring" on the meter movement, like most meters have. Instead, they rely on 2 coils oriented 90° from each other that drive the movement, one that moves the pointer "north-south" so to speak, and one "east-west". That particular tach moves 270° from 0 to full-scale; 0 is "due south", about 2300 is due W, 4600 is due N, and 7000 is due E; when the key is on and the engine is off, the N-S coil is trying to drive it S that being where 0 is, and the E-W coil is off; but if the pointer is already too far around past E, then to get from there to S it has to go CW, which it can't because the OP gauge physically is in its way. The circuit is as dumb as a bag of sand, and lacks the intelligence (and of course any knowledge about the pointer's current location) to drive the pointer N first, then W, and THEN S, to get it to return all the way S to 0.
Last edited by sofakingdom; 09-08-2017 at 06:19 AM.
#3
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 11
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Car: 1985 Chevrolet Camaro IROC Z
Engine: LB9 305 Rebulit Original to the car
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 RPO GU6
Re: Tach Issues
There may well not actually be anything at all wrong with it, besides maybe its accuracy.
Try taking off the bezel and moving the pointer to 0 by hand with the engine off, then see what it does.
The way those work, there's no "return spring" on the meter movement, like most meters have. Instead, they rely on 2 coils oriented 90° from each other that drive the movement, one that moves the pointer "north-south" so to speak, and one "east-west". That particular tach moves 270° from 0 to full-scale; 0 is "due south", about 2300 is due W, 4600 is due N, and 7000 is due E; when the key is on and the engine is off, the N-S coil is trying to drive it S that being where 0 is, and the E-W coil is off; but if the pointer is already too far around past E, then to get from there to S it has to go CW, which it can't because the OP gauge physically is in its way. The circuit is as dumb as a bag of sand, and lacks the intelligence (and of course any knowledge about the pointer's current location) to drive the pointer N first, then W, and THEN S, to get it to return all the way S to 0.
Try taking off the bezel and moving the pointer to 0 by hand with the engine off, then see what it does.
The way those work, there's no "return spring" on the meter movement, like most meters have. Instead, they rely on 2 coils oriented 90° from each other that drive the movement, one that moves the pointer "north-south" so to speak, and one "east-west". That particular tach moves 270° from 0 to full-scale; 0 is "due south", about 2300 is due W, 4600 is due N, and 7000 is due E; when the key is on and the engine is off, the N-S coil is trying to drive it S that being where 0 is, and the E-W coil is off; but if the pointer is already too far around past E, then to get from there to S it has to go CW, which it can't because the OP gauge physically is in its way. The circuit is as dumb as a bag of sand, and lacks the intelligence (and of course any knowledge about the pointer's current location) to drive the pointer N first, then W, and THEN S, to get it to return all the way S to 0.