Don't buy a flat-tappet anything; go with a roller block/cam. In this day and age, there just is no good reason to try to get a flat-tappet cam to live with the low-zinc oils mandated by EPA. Additionally, roller lifters eliminate a lot of power-robbing internal engine friction over a flat-tappet valve train.

 

So I chatted with an engine builder today about refreshing my engine and getting some more performance. He quoted me at $4000-$5000 for parts and labour. So I am debating the L31 R, the 350/290 or the 350/333HP Engine. All engines require the intake The 333hp and the 290 both have the tappet cam. So do I go with the less HP Engine, or the 333HP or the 350/290 and change out the Cam, lifters, springs etc.
The 333 and 290 would have to out perform the L31 due to advertised HP ??
Prices I was quoted were:
L31 $4195
350/333HP $4186
350/290 $4090
Kinda baffled at the price of the L31 for me in Canada because of the difference on the Summit site.

 

https://sdparts.com/i-24104130-chevr...te-engine.html

 

Yup that one was on the list. It’s just under $1000 more at $5028.
I was only planning on spending $4000-$4200 at most. Then the cost of the Intake on top of that. This Engine puts me over budget.
But buying that one saves me buying a roller cam and other parts so it kinda equals out hey 🤔

 

You will probably spend $800-1000 replacing the flat tappet garbage if you went with something other than the L31 anyway. Bringing you right up to ~$5k Canadian.

If you don't want to spend the money for the SP350/357 the L31 is really your only option unless you want to roll the dice with one of the rebuilt crate engines.

OR find someone nearby in the states that can get you the L31 for ~$2k USD.

 

Ya I was looking into getting the engine shipped to a holding point and found one. Problem is, we pay .35cents on the $
then it’s a 14hr drive each way for me to the border. So that $2200 engine puts me at $3100 plus travel expenses, then I still have to pay taxes for my Province which then brings me to $4000.

BUT... I’ve found a way to get the Engine from the shop I’ve been chatting with for tax free.

 

That's similar to the engine I have, if not the same. It's been great, just using a Holley carb. Power is decent, price is a bit much for what you get, but it's complete.

You need to set the valves and use special additive during breakin. After that it's fine to use regular oil as specified by the manual that comes with it. They are flat tappet, but they are HYDRAULIC flat tappet. You don't need to adjust valves with every single oil change like on a race bike.

Flat tappets wear to the cam more. They are bad if you think you want to go swapping around camshafts, but at that point just swap to rollers while you've got the thing apart anyway. They're bad when you're building ground up because you can't get as aggressive of a cam ramp as you would with rollers. You're not going to break quarter mile records, but it will last a long time and it's still plenty of torque to destroy transmissions. I'm up to 3 and I need to look into new diff cones.

It's a fine engine, but used LS1s should be much more available now.

Also make sure your accessory brackets fit. I'm trying to figure out how to swap my truck brackets with caprice brackets and find parts that all fit. Been driving without AC for some time.

 

So with the 350/357 do I have any issues for the cam duration keeping my stock TPI System? It’s listed at 215/223deg
https://sdparts.com/i-24104130-chevr...te-engine.html

I edited this post and here’s my original comment but I thought of the cam after I posted.

So guys I made up my mind. When it comes down to it, as you guys said the roller cam is the way to go.
So I figure if I am doing this I may as well get some decent HP and I’m going with the 350/357 Engine.
Due to me working away 16 days a month, there’s a 98% chance the Engine wouldn’t be installed this year anyways, I am putting aside $3500 out of the $4500 I have now, ($1000 going to other expenses)and will save up between the Fall and next Spring.
So I figure another $2500+ For the Engine, then Intake, balancer, distributor, Plug wires etc etc. to complete the build.

This way I will have time to get my headers ceramic coated and clean up and spray the engine bay in the Spring and not be rushed and make everything mint.

Again I really appreciate the input and looking forward to showing the install next Spring.

 

Without knowing your stock engine in detail it's hard to understand what you are asking. Are you planning to use a higher flowing engine and just stick in bigger injectors to avoid remapping or something? If that's what you mean, it would probably run, but not anywhere near its potential. I'd go carbureted before doing that, and that is not because I love carbs, I don't. FI is better, just costs money and time to do it right.

I'm not just memeing about "swap used LS", I really think that's the way to go these days. I bought my engine when the LS was still not even something you could really find used.

 

IF I didn't have to deal w/ cali SMOG BS, I'd put one of those in my 89 IROC Z Vert! (And have the AT beefed-up, also).

 

Don't want to high jack the thread, but that's the engine I'm eyeing for my T/A with stand alone aftermarket EFI. Nice bump in HP and should basically bolt right in same as stock. I thought about one of the Blue Print rebuilds but read as many negative reviews as positive so that scared me away from them.

 

Here’s a thought for now, would you guys think I would be ok installing a set of Vortec heads and intake without causing any stress on the rest of the engine at 90,000 miles that Runs great?
I can get a good deal on the heads and I can buy the intake now and reuse it when I get the crate Engine next Spring.

 

Why on earth would you want aftermarket, crap FI? Go w/ OE.

 

I'm not messing with sourcing a TPI system and harness, learning how it works, buying the stuff needed to tune it, etc. I would go carb before I mess with all that.

Now, back to our originally scheduled thread.

 

Wanted to see if I could clarify if my Stock TPI system is fine to use on the 350/357HP Engine. And will the SD Intake bolt onto these new crate engines?
This is basically the same post as #58 but still looking for clarification. A friend mentioned that from his research said I cant have more then 118deg on the Cam, not sure if he meant intake or Exhaust side,
Here's the engine specs if someone can clarify please and thanks.
https://www.chevroletperformancestor...sp350-357-base
https://sdparts.com/i-23896057-sdpc-...baseplate.html

 

About four years ago, I bought a new GM L31 Vortec crate motor form Jeg's. Right at $2,000 and FREE shipping. I threw on an Air Gap intake, Edelbrock 600 carb, HEI distributor, and long tube headers. Even with the stock cam, I can assure you it is way more than 220 hp. I do plan on installing the LT4 Hot Cam along with Alex's spring and retainer kit in the future. It's my daily driver. It's got a lot more power than I thought it would.

 

Ya I don't doubt that. The reason I am going with the 357HP Engine is because in Canada for me the L31 is $4195 and the 357HP Engine is $5028. So for $833 I will take the extra HP.

 

I think you would be fine. Id go ahead and do the Alex spring kit and change cam and I think you would then forget about the crate engine.

 

Wanted to update this topic. I made a deal on a 1st TPI System to add to the Engine.
Should be a nice compliment to the 350/357 Engine. I’ll be ordering the Engine Mid November it’s looking like.

 

Ok guys before I order this 350/357hp Engine. Are there any components of my 350 TPI L98 that will not bolt on/attach to this Engine? Such and anything electrical, Flywheel, Distributor, Alternator you know basically everything.
What else am I looking at here so I can be 100% sure I won’t run into any trouble?

 

Jeg's has the best deal on a new GM L31 for about $2,000. That's what I bought about 3 years ago. I dropped it in and used long tube headers, Edelbrock 600 and Air Gap intake, true dual exhaust, and HEI. I am actually surprised how well it runs with the stock cam in my daily driver. So well, I'm still on the fence to whether I want to go to all of the work to swap the cam. Naturally, it has a truck cam for low end torque but it really moves my car pretty well.

 

skip alex and go straight to the source
straub tecnologies dot com talk to chris

 

@ Out-Cast: I was looking at your engine combination (SP350/357hp Engine and First intake) and wanted to ask you how is your project coming along? Thanks!

 

I haven’t got my engine out of the car yet. I just finished building a new garage so hope to get it out Early February. The Car has always been in storage elsewhere and I wasn’t going to take the Engine out in the Summer months.
I work away from home for 3 weeks at a time so that’s why so late.
I plan on assessing my engine condition (which should be fine) and then deciding on the Crate engine or modify mine to get the 350hp range.

 

CURIOUS? ANY UPDATES? I am waiting on my sp350/357sbc to come any day and will be going with the FIRST INTAKE. What did ya do for TUNE? Which EXHAUST? Any complications or advice?

 

I ended up building my original engine. The Crate engine went up in price by $1100
My engine is being put together now and I’ll be putting it in the car mid July.

 

Oh and I’ve got a chip from Scott Hansen.
Hedman Headers and Y Pipe.

 

curious how is the "Scott Hanson" chip?

 

Scott is very knowledgeable and his tunes work
well.