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Engine won’t turn over

Old May 31, 2024 | 09:56 PM
  #1  
dylan0503's Avatar
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From: Houston, Texas
Car: 1987 Firebird Formula
Engine: 305 Carbureted
Transmission: 700r4
Engine won’t turn over

So I have an 87 formula and I swapped it with a vortec 350. I was setting the valve lash and distributor and now all of a sudden it won’t turn over, like I was actively turning it over and then it just stopped and won’t go anymore. Switched the starter and ignition switch. Everything comes on when I click the key over but when I turn it to start, nothing happens. No grinding, no clicking, just nothing. Oh yea, and now that I changed the ignition switch, I can’t take the key out unless I turn it backwards to the accessory spot. Any ideas?

Last edited by dylan0503; May 31, 2024 at 10:02 PM.
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Old Jun 1, 2024 | 06:25 AM
  #2  
Aaron R.'s Avatar
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From: Missouri
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Engine won’t turn over

Based on your recent post history you have quite a few things possibly wrong. Recent posts about starter or wiring problems and pushrod length.

1. Diagnose your starter circuit and figure out if starter actually works.

2. And/Or, get help from a mechanic friend who is competent. No offense, but I get the impression you have very little mechanical inclination and are half-assing or just plain buggering up everything on your engine. Not throwing stones because many of us were there at one time as well. If your starter and circuit are fine you probably need an experienced mechanic to put his hands on this engine with you. Or we (the forum) could keep wildly guessing at all the things possibly wrong.
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Old Jun 2, 2024 | 08:22 AM
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exiled350's Avatar
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Car: 1987 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: 427ci Gen 1 Small Block
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Strange60 4.10 Eaton Truetrac
Re: Engine won’t turn over

The holes for the ignition switch to column are slotted to accommodate manufacturing variations in all the parts. You have it too far back(?) and when turning the key cylinder to crank the rod is not pushing the switch far enough forward for the cranking contacts to come together. I believe the correct procedure for install is to have both the lock cylinder and switch in the run position when securing the bolts. If it's high mileage or mixed parts you got some fiddling to do to get it right.
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Old Jun 2, 2024 | 10:24 AM
  #4  
dylan0503's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2020
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From: Houston, Texas
Car: 1987 Firebird Formula
Engine: 305 Carbureted
Transmission: 700r4
Re: Engine won’t turn over

Originally Posted by Aaron R.
Based on your recent post history you have quite a few things possibly wrong. Recent posts about starter or wiring problems and pushrod length.

1. Diagnose your starter circuit and figure out if starter actually works.

2. And/Or, get help from a mechanic friend who is competent. No offense, but I get the impression you have very little mechanical inclination and are half-assing or just plain buggering up everything on your engine. Not throwing stones because many of us were there at one time as well. If your starter and circuit are fine you probably need an experienced mechanic to put his hands on this engine with you. Or we (the forum) could keep wildly guessing at all the things possibly wrong.
I actually just recently got everything fixed. I had a guy come over and check it all out. The engine has the valve lash set and everything is good. It’s just the starter won’t turn over now lol.the starter is a new problem.
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Old Jun 2, 2024 | 10:37 AM
  #5  
dylan0503's Avatar
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From: Houston, Texas
Car: 1987 Firebird Formula
Engine: 305 Carbureted
Transmission: 700r4
Re: Engine won’t turn over

Originally Posted by exiled350
The holes for the ignition switch to column are slotted to accommodate manufacturing variations in all the parts. You have it too far back(?) and when turning the key cylinder to crank the rod is not pushing the switch far enough forward for the cranking contacts to come together. I believe the correct procedure for install is to have both the lock cylinder and switch in the run position when securing the bolts. If it's high mileage or mixed parts you got some fiddling to do to get it right.
that would make sense. That would also probably explain why I can only take the key out in the accessory spot to. Maybe that’s off on the lock cylinder but accessory on the switch. I’ll give it a try and see what I can do to get them lined up right.
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