Computer, vaccum and other stuff....HELP
Computer, vaccum and other stuff....HELP
ok im swappin a 305 to a 350 in my 84 T/A.......im leaving out ALL emissions and im ditchin the computer........i need to know exactly what new parts i need to make this work.........
first
can i go without any vaccum for the engine.....
im getting a non vaccum...non computer....non emissions carb.....i have headers.....what else do i need...
like, distributor.....torque converter lock up...anything else???
this is my first real engine work and i need to know exactly what i need to make this work
thanks
first
can i go without any vaccum for the engine.....
im getting a non vaccum...non computer....non emissions carb.....i have headers.....what else do i need...
like, distributor.....torque converter lock up...anything else???
this is my first real engine work and i need to know exactly what i need to make this work
thanks
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Purely a hotrod with no MPG concerns? If so, you can run a mechanical advance only distributor.
If you like MPG's and the base will take it, then use a vac advance HEI. A street carb will/should have ported vac to run it, not sure of the all out racing carbs.
If you're ripping it all out and you want to still have autolockup of the TC, two ways...one is with a kit, about a $100.00, and the other (I've only heard of, but seems sound) is to go into the tranny and wire the TC up through the 4rth gear pressure switch, would assume you need to go from the switch to a relay and back, not sure...but would be cool then the only time the TCC would lock would be in OD.
Probably not everything, just a few to get ya thinking and bump the post
If you like MPG's and the base will take it, then use a vac advance HEI. A street carb will/should have ported vac to run it, not sure of the all out racing carbs.
If you're ripping it all out and you want to still have autolockup of the TC, two ways...one is with a kit, about a $100.00, and the other (I've only heard of, but seems sound) is to go into the tranny and wire the TC up through the 4rth gear pressure switch, would assume you need to go from the switch to a relay and back, not sure...but would be cool then the only time the TCC would lock would be in OD.
Probably not everything, just a few to get ya thinking and bump the post
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
I see, seems you may be confusing emission devices with vacuum?
The engine produces vacuum when it runs.
Before starting this adventure, do a search on the web for IC engines and how they work or buy a decent book. Learn a bit about what you're modifying before you start, in order to give you an idea of what you actually want.
But yes, if it were me doing this, I'd use a vacuum advance HEI and a vacuum secondary carb. There's no vacuum control for the tranny, it's done via pressure control internally and adjusted via throttle position.
The engine produces vacuum when it runs.
Before starting this adventure, do a search on the web for IC engines and how they work or buy a decent book. Learn a bit about what you're modifying before you start, in order to give you an idea of what you actually want.
But yes, if it were me doing this, I'd use a vacuum advance HEI and a vacuum secondary carb. There's no vacuum control for the tranny, it's done via pressure control internally and adjusted via throttle position.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
If you're removing all emissions equipment, first you need to make sure about the testing done in your part of the country.
That said, w/o the emission equipment, you won't use the charcoal cannister...unless you leave it in to capture the tank fumes.
re: vacuum.
The engine produces vacuum when the piston is on it's way down, and the intake valve is open...air is sucked though the carb, through the intake runners and into the combustion chambers.
Vacuum is tapped off of several places during this occurrence...the base of the carb and off of the intake runners of the intake manifold. These lines go to many different vacuum controlled places in the car...heater vent controls, EGR valve (through temp switches) and various other emissions devices...and depending on the model of the car, necessary devices. Depending on the vehicle, the timing advance at cruise and part throttle is controlled via vacuum, as well as transmission shifting. There's also "ported/timed" vacuum, that is tapped off the carb to only be produced when the throttle blades begin opening.
Again, I really think you need to do a few things before you start yanking things off...one thing would be to learn the basic principles of how things work, then get a manual (haynes/chiltons) for an explanation of how these things affect what's on your car. I don't think you should jump right into a shop manual yet...shop manuals usually assume you know how things work, and they provide adjustment, removal and installation and troubleshooting/diag info.
That said, w/o the emission equipment, you won't use the charcoal cannister...unless you leave it in to capture the tank fumes.
re: vacuum.
The engine produces vacuum when the piston is on it's way down, and the intake valve is open...air is sucked though the carb, through the intake runners and into the combustion chambers.
Vacuum is tapped off of several places during this occurrence...the base of the carb and off of the intake runners of the intake manifold. These lines go to many different vacuum controlled places in the car...heater vent controls, EGR valve (through temp switches) and various other emissions devices...and depending on the model of the car, necessary devices. Depending on the vehicle, the timing advance at cruise and part throttle is controlled via vacuum, as well as transmission shifting. There's also "ported/timed" vacuum, that is tapped off the carb to only be produced when the throttle blades begin opening.
Again, I really think you need to do a few things before you start yanking things off...one thing would be to learn the basic principles of how things work, then get a manual (haynes/chiltons) for an explanation of how these things affect what's on your car. I don't think you should jump right into a shop manual yet...shop manuals usually assume you know how things work, and they provide adjustment, removal and installation and troubleshooting/diag info.
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