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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 09:15 PM
  #1  
Denial's Avatar
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From: York
Car: 84' z28
Engine: Built 350 SB 4 Bolt, Bored .30 Over
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Whats better to do

I have a 700r4 automatic, in an 84 z28, i can go 1,2,3 then drive... my question is.. what is bettert to do for a faster acceleration in a race atmosphere, shift manualy 1,2,3 then drive or just leave it in drive and pedal to the metal, also what rpms should i shift into each gear? Its a 350 sb and is only about 1000 miles old now with proper break in on both the tranny and motor.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 09:34 PM
  #2  
CrazyBear's Avatar
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From: Thornton, CO
Car: 1987 Camaro,'89 firebird
Engine: 305 quadjet, 305 tbi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73. 3.2xs
Id say go with whatever your more comfortable with.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 09:35 PM
  #3  
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From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
7400 RPMs
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 10:06 PM
  #4  
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From: North Carolina!
Car: 87 IROC
Engine: 406 sbc with Trick Flow heads, Hook
Transmission: Pro built 700R4
Axle/Gears: waiting on a new rear!!!!
Originally Posted by brodyscamaro
7400 RPMs
OK that was a little funny.

Do you have a shift kit or a corvette servo? If not get'em that will make shifting it manual a little better and also get a B&M shifter its easy to install. What are the specs on your engine? If you have a average built 350 5500 rpms should be your shift points.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 10:19 PM
  #5  
Denial's Avatar
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From: York
Car: 84' z28
Engine: Built 350 SB 4 Bolt, Bored .30 Over
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
i already have a steet /strip kit in, with the b&m shifter with the lockout on it, just curious whitch method is better for faster acceleration if it even makes a difference
Brody, thanks for the smartass comment, it really helps everyone around here actually trying to learn something
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 11:02 PM
  #6  
brodyscamaro's Avatar
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From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
Well, I'll help you as soon as you answer libo's question.

Engine specs play a role in the RPM at which you should shift.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 11:45 PM
  #7  
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From: Brighton, CO
Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
Originally Posted by Denial
I have a 700r4 automatic, in an 84 z28, i can go 1,2,3 then drive... my question is.. what is bettert to do for a faster acceleration in a race atmosphere, shift manualy 1,2,3 then drive or just leave it in drive and pedal to the metal, also what rpms should i shift into each gear? Its a 350 sb and is only about 1000 miles old now with proper break in on both the tranny and motor.
Hold it in first till you launch then shift it to third. That's what I did in my TA, just to make sure that it wouldn't go into second.

Shiftpoints depend on your setup. What heads/cam/intake/exhaust/gears do you have?
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 05:08 AM
  #8  
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From: Streamwood, IL
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: TPI 5.7 L
Transmission: 4L60 w/Vigilante 2,400 Stall
Axle/Gears: Girdled 10 bolt/3.23's
A stock 700R4/4L60 should not be manually shifted at WOT. It takes a second or two for the line pressure to rise so it can shift to the next gear. In other words, you'll end up over revving everytime. Just leave it in drive and mash it. If your shift points are not where you want them to be, you'll need to buy a spring and weight kit for the Governor. Do not use the TV Cable to try and adjust your shift points either! Very bad idea!
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 09:21 AM
  #9  
Noize's Avatar
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From: Nashville, TN
Car: 2003 Evolution VIII
Engine: 2.0 I4
Originally Posted by Blu91Z28
A stock 700R4/4L60 should not be manually shifted at WOT. It takes a second or two for the line pressure to rise so it can shift to the next gear. In other words, you'll end up over revving everytime. Just leave it in drive and mash it. If your shift points are not where you want them to be, you'll need to buy a spring and weight kit for the Governor. Do not use the TV Cable to try and adjust your shift points either! Very bad idea!
This is true. I used to overrev my L69 '84 that way.
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 10:54 AM
  #10  
Denial's Avatar
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From: York
Car: 84' z28
Engine: Built 350 SB 4 Bolt, Bored .30 Over
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally Posted by Blu91Z28
A stock 700R4/4L60 should not be manually shifted at WOT. It takes a second or two for the line pressure to rise so it can shift to the next gear. In other words, you'll end up over revving everytime. Just leave it in drive and mash it. If your shift points are not where you want them to be, you'll need to buy a spring and weight kit for the Governor. Do not use the TV Cable to try and adjust your shift points either! Very bad idea!
It isnt "stock" though, it was built by mad dog transmissions ( maddog-transmissions.com ) and has a street / strip kit along with aftermarket mounts and some other small things, so does that make a difference in manualy shifting at wot? Or could i just left off the gas for that fraction of a second alittle to shift to the next gear and would it still be better then just throwing it into 3rd or d to let it go on its own
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 05:06 PM
  #11  
brodyscamaro's Avatar
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From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
I always shifted mine manually... The tranny survived longer then I thought it would...
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 06:11 PM
  #12  
Blu91Z28's Avatar
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From: Streamwood, IL
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: TPI 5.7 L
Transmission: 4L60 w/Vigilante 2,400 Stall
Axle/Gears: Girdled 10 bolt/3.23's
Originally Posted by Denial
It isnt "stock" though, it was built by mad dog transmissions ( maddog-transmissions.com ) and has a street / strip kit along with aftermarket mounts and some other small things, so does that make a difference in manualy shifting at wot? Or could i just left off the gas for that fraction of a second alittle to shift to the next gear and would it still be better then just throwing it into 3rd or d to let it go on its own

Does it instantly shift to the next gear or is there a second or two delay? I have a Trans-Go Valve body kit in mine and it still does it. Like I said above, if it's not shifting at the RPM you desire, all you need to do is buy a kit to change the springs and weights on the governor. It's an easy job. The governor is located on the driver side of the trans. It has a stamped steel dome shaped cover. You can't miss it. The other thing you can try is snagging a couple governors out of the junk yard. Different engines had different RPM ranges hence different governors with different springs and weights. Good Luck!
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 08:00 PM
  #13  
91drag's Avatar
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From: arkansas
Car: 1928 dodge coupe, 64 1/2 mustang
Engine: 350,289
Transmission: munice 4 speed,c4
Axle/Gears: 9" 3.00, 9" 3.25
[QUOTE=Denial;3061276]It isnt "stock" though, it was built by mad dog transmissions ( maddog-transmissions.com ) and has a street / strip kit



good luck with that trans might need to read post about them in vendor section

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...ht=maddog+long

Last edited by 91drag; Sep 15, 2006 at 08:03 PM.
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Old Sep 16, 2006 | 09:22 AM
  #14  
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From: Glendale, AZ
Car: 4 Mopars total
Engine: Pentastar power
Transmission: T/F and New Process
Axle/Gears: Three 8 3/4's & one 9 1/4
He never answered the original question pertaining to the cars specs.
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 10:58 PM
  #15  
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From: Greenville
Car: 89 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
If theres a delay in the shift when you manually shift, leave it in drive. If it shifts hard when you manually shift with no delay, you can shift it yourself. Go to a track and test which rpm is the best to shift at. Honestly though, it wont make that big of a difference and you'll probably end up wearing out your transmission which happens a lot of fbodies that people manually shift.
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Old Sep 23, 2006 | 03:53 PM
  #16  
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From: Glendale, AZ
Car: 4 Mopars total
Engine: Pentastar power
Transmission: T/F and New Process
Axle/Gears: Three 8 3/4's & one 9 1/4
Originally Posted by piratexcore
you'll probably end up wearing out your transmission which happens a lot of fbodies that people manually shift.

LOL, I dont know about that. Ive had 12 thirdgens, and have been racing them regularly for 9 years. I never had one problem. In a lot of transmissions, it actually increases line pressure...which means good. I dont remember if the 700R4 does (its been a while since ive been into one), but TF 904's and 727's do, as do the TH350's and 400's.
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Old Sep 23, 2006 | 11:06 PM
  #17  
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From: Toronto CANADA - GM Parts Rep.
Car: 1987 Iroc Z28
Engine: The KING of the 3rd gen TPI's.
Transmission: Beefed up T5
Axle/Gears: Aussie 3.45's
Leave it in D.

You don't like it, get yourself a manual. Really.
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Old Sep 23, 2006 | 11:37 PM
  #18  
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From: Greenville
Car: 89 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Eh, I manually shifted my 700R4, and it went out in less than a year. The guy that rebuilt it said that its pretty common and I was lucky mine lasted as long as it did.

Edit: My GTA was error proned anyways, so I was probably just unlucky again.
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