Looney

This kid I work with thinks that he can take me on in a mile race against my bird so I took him up on the offer, but the race isn't for a few weeks, but he has a stock hemi 5.7.....and i'm all stock too.....am I screwed?

iroc stangs

if its really a mile, then ya im pretty sure your screwed. a quarter mile could possibly be diffrent but im not positive. a complete exhuast will do you good though, expecially on a 350tpi.

joeblue83

iTrader: (8)

why so far??

Stangski09

iTrader: (10)

Stock you may be screwed. I've licked a few Charger R/T's and 300's, all with the 5.7 Hemi.

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

You either need to have a full bolt-on car at least to take the 2005 Magnum with the 5.7L engine in a mile race. I think you'll certainly have him off the line but as you near the end of the first half of that mile he'll start to reel you in and in the second half, you'll get walked. In a mile race TPI's lack of top end is going to come into play.

fly89gta

iTrader: (1)

...a mile race?

Like others have said, if it's really a mile race you're done for.

Looney

Well, the road itself is a mile, but in theory the one who puts the most distance between eachother wins pretty much.....any simple bolt ons I could do to my car?? I got two weeks or so

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

Get an ATI Procharger. That's a good bolt-on and with some basic tuning you would be sure to win!

Looney

A bolt on thats not 2000 bucks :/ ? maybe around 300-500 bucks lol

SiCkRs

iTrader: (6)

You should pm dyno don they are the ones who put out good hp on tpis they could tell you some bolt ons that are actually worth installing

iroc stangs

since you asked... just do the basics, magnaflow exhuast/high flow cat (if you have a bad one if not then dont replace) and build a ram air/cai, do a few weight reductions and some free mods. that'll take up pretty much 400 bucks if you shop right (bandit exhuast has the magna for 320. but honestly in a full mile race your still screwed... by a half mile probaly lol.

tpivette89

nitrous. It's the only thing that's gonna keep you ahead in any race over a 1/4 mile. And if you buy a used kit, it'll come just under your budget. There's nothing else that offers more bang for your buck, period

youl need room to shut down after the race, so I wouldn't run the whole road. That's just asking for trouble. The standard measure of speed is a quarter mile. Don't run anything longer than that

oscarsrs

c'mon seriously ? stock for stock,,,that would be like having your 70 year old grandmother running against your 16 year old sister

ASE doc

I disagree with many of the posts on this thread. I worked for chrysler for a few years as an engine performance specialist. I did alot of work on the 5.7 & 6.2 HEMIs. The 6.2 is a 430hp beast. Dont even think about it with anything less than a seriously built TPI(mine would eat its lunch).

The 5.7 in 05 made 348hp. Thats 133hp more than a stock 87GTA. The Magnum also has big rubber, stock wheel size is 19". These cars bite hard off the line. I had a hard time even getting them to break loose on dry pavement and they pull hard. Im sorry brother. Youre talking 80s technology vs new melinium. Sure, our TPIs are capable of putting most new factory hi po to shame. But not in stock form.

If you have any chance at all, it will be at higher speed. The magnum isnt very aerodynamic. The SRTs Ive driven might run my IROC off the line, unless Im running drag radials, but I would be leaving them behind by 100mph. Even stock, I think you may keep up at speed.

That being said please dont race on open road with no limits or safety regulation. You know what happens to your GTA when you crash at 100+? They will be mopping you up.

Looney

Would I gain any horses buy putting in new headers and runners? those seem within my grasp....although it looks like a tight fit to change headers, as for nos...probobly something I want to stay away from now, if i put in a kit i want it done right and not cheap, would a set of deeper gears help too??

iroc stangs

i would do headers if you are going do an COMPLETE exhuast. pointless to do runners, maybe have your complete tpi unit ported a bit and that would help alot with exhuast.

ASE doc

The cheapest way to get power from a stock tpi is with a cam swap. But to make a larger cam work you need to install valve springs that will support the higher lift and more aggressive profile. You also need to port your heads, manifold base and plenum. Ive done this upgrade a few times with very good results. It will take you about 30 solid hours of work, assuming youre good with engines.

Be very careful porting the L98 heads as they are thin walled. Atilla the fun has a great thread on porting on this forum. Search it out. As far as the cam goes, Ive used an SLP grind 223/230 @050 502/513. I believe the comp XR268 is pretty close to this if you cant find the SLP.

This combination made excellent power from 2500 to 5000 and the only parts required were a $300 cam, $100 springs and gaskets. It may have even kept up with the magnum. It would have done even better and had more top end with headers, exhaust and a better cold air intake.

tpivette89

you'll need alot more than a cam and springs to do the swap. Additional costs include all the gaskets (oil pan, timing cover, water pump, head, intake, exhaust manifold, valve cover), a new timing chain, head bolts, and all related fluids. That easily adds around $300 to the bottom line

also, with a cam that large (222/230), you'd need some sort of recalibration to truly take advantage of it

ASE doc

I dont wish to argue. I know this combo works because Ive done it 3 different times on a series of 87-89 350 TPI motors. Every one turned out very well and ran strong on stock calibration using an AFPR and advanced base timing.

The key is the MAF system. The MAF sees the increase in air flow and can compensate to a large degree. The idle will be rough and youll need to mechanically adjust it to 850-1000rpm.

I would never atempt any such combo on a speed density car without recalibration.

And if you read my post more carefully youll see that I did include gaskets. Even with the additional parts, this is still the cheapest way to increase power in a TPI.

ASE doc

BTW, Ive rebuilt dozens upon dozens of stock small block chevys and, unless the motors been overheated or is being built for serious power, I never replace head bolts.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

You'll pull off the line for sure, and probably spank him through second and most of third gear. Once you hit fourth, and he starts hitting his HP peak, and still can shift into fifth or sixth (don't the new dodges have 5-speed automatics and 6-speed manuals?) is when he'll eat your lunch. In a quarter, you have 80 ft-lb of torque more than his peak at a peak 1200-1500 lower rpm than his torque peak. In the mile, he has 100-120 horses on you.

I've taken a Hemi SRT-8 from the line up until my trans didn't want to upshift to third. :/

SnistahRS

didn't some of the hemi mags come awd? i'd beware if thats the case

fly89gta

iTrader: (1)

....there's an AWD option on them.....

Stangski09

iTrader: (10)

I swear i've seen an awd badge on an Magnum before.
And just incase, I have the proof to back it up

http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...take_road_test

And it runs an 14.5 Quarter Mile, now I know for a fact my GTA would lick that. And that's not a good time for an AWD car with a powerful Hemi.
I think it'd be a great race to watch, with some intake bolt ons so your 350 can breathe past 5 grand i'm sure your GTA could run it down.

ASE doc

If a stock 5.7 took an SRT 8 off the line, the SRT8 must have been at half throttle.

Why do we keep coming back to the pointless discussion of torque versus horsepower? Where acceleration is concerned there is no difference between the two. Its just a matter of gearing to harness HP into rear wheel torque.

Again, I own an extremely fast, high horsepower 355TPI IROCZ. I worked for Chrysler for a year as an engine performance specialist. I would drive my IROC to work then turn right around and drive the hemi cars. Unless youre running slicks, you will not take the hemi off the line. Even if you can muster the power, tire spin will prevent you from keeping up.

Stangski09

iTrader: (10)

Minor suspension mods will fix that, plus a 0-60 time of 5.9 is nothing to be proud of with an AWD car.
LCAs, LCA Relocation Brackets, and Panhard Bar would definitely help with traction.
I'm just saying from experience that i've beaten a few of these hemi's, and you know what, it's been a light to light race, no faster than 120km/h.

Looney

Ok well i'll be getting a few bolt ons this week and hopefully that will give me an edge for next week, thanks for all the input

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

From what I read the 5.7 Hemi's only have 260-280 HP before they hit the rev or the speed limiter. We're only 30-50 down from that, and have gobs more torque. And all at lower RPM's. Why is it so surprising that I could take him off the line when I have more power in the lower RPMS? He left me in the dust after I couldn't upshift, and I couldn't catch up, either. I don't think I would have made it through 3rd gear though without him passing me, as he was starting to pull on me anyways.

Edit: Okay, so it wasn't an SRT-8. It was a Daytona R/T. Sorry I can't keep all of Dodge's stupid nomenclature in my memory. I knew it had special paint, so figured it had to be an SRT. 340 Horses with a 20% drivetrain loss is 272, and aren't the TPI's rated from the rear wheels?

ASE doc

I dont know for sure. I think that the TPI is rated on net flywheel HP. I only make my claims based on driving the cars while working as a drivability specialist with chrysler. I may be full of c**p anyway since I havent driven a stock TPI for years. My extreme 87 is the fastest car I have ever driven and I lose perspective.

I say race! If you lose it will only be educational. I would run 3 times though to help balance out driver error. Then you can go to work on the mods to make your TPI the Magnums lunch at any speed.

fly89gta

iTrader: (1)

All cars are rated at the crank/flywheel