I had those mods and more on an 89 Vette and ran low 14s 2.0 sixty on a good day (LACR raceway)
Even corrected for altitude its only 13.9
And that car weighs a lot less than 3500!

Sorry not seeing 12s with bolt ons no how even with a converter gears and sticky tire . Ever

 

That's the goal now the old goal was with regular 083 heads. Now I'll be running a set of Dart 200s. I'd like to be capable of 11s, but the intake will be a limiting factor being NA TPI and all. Cutoff for the class I'm running is 12.00 anyway

 

Wish I had more pics of timeslips and stuff, but most of this was before the advent of the camera phone (or at least before I got one) and I wasn't a big picture taker anyhow.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...stock-cam.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...ock-block.html

I really wish it wasn't 105 degrees that day and they would've at least prepped the track for us :/ (I'm halfway down the page)
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...s/viewall.html

I was running it hot and dragging the brakes a bit because the fastest I could dial in that class is 13.0. Ran 12.85-12.87 in practice (super street eliminations, halfway down)
http://www.mirdrag.com/v2/results/20...3/08-03-09.htm

http://www.mirdrag.com/v2/results/20...3/08-03-16.htm

http://www.mirdrag.com/v2/results/20...3/08-03-30.htm

Original heads and cam were removed summer of 08 in favor of the AFR's and comp 276 cam. Still 100% stock tpi and factory chip. Timing was waaay low as you can tell by the mph and once corrected went 12.27@106-108 (pro street finals, obviously lifted final round)
http://www.mirdrag.com/v2/results/20...3/08-03-30.htm

 

I don't understand how you were running Ls1 track times with a stock TPI in your first link you posted GTAMatt. It doesn't add up.

 

Yep 11's with two factory TBI units to be exact, but with those cubes I bet I could do it with one. I plan to run what are known as medium rise heads aka 428 cobrajet style with a dual 4bbl intake and 2 x 660 cfm marine small block TBI units. I cannot decide if I want to use a C6 or a GM 4L80E transmission.

 

For those of us that aren't magazine racers it adds up just fine.

My last times in my Titan after my E-fan setup went on in -700 DA were 13.7s @ 98 mph on a 2.01s 60'. I only dyno'd 314 RWHP @ 4,980 last dyno.

 

I think his "bolt on's" must have included an electric super charger and one of those chips that give you a billion horsepower... My Mod List may be long, but it is modest compared to some other builds, but even with that said - my Z could do a 14sec quarter at a coast on street tires... Good thing you sold it...

 

I agree he must have had an engine running on 7 cylinders with low compression in 3 others to see the times he claims he ran with mods. It would not be too hard to get 300 RWHP out of a TPI engine knowing some ran as much as 230-240 RWHP in stock form. A well used 76' Impala low compression 12cc dished piston 350 running 083 TPI heads with a flat tappet Comp XE268 cam, low rise dual plane, Q-Jet, 1 5/8" long tube headers and a little tweaking made 320 hp at the flywheel and over 380 ft/lbs of torque. The same engine running TPI and a roller cam would make more power than that. Thats enough to push even the heaviest 3rd gen deep into the 13s. A pair of vortecs, a single plane intake and quick fuel 750 is 400+ hp on the same engine. Remove some weight, add a 3.73 gear withe a posi unit from a 2.8 S10 Blazer and some suspension mods bolt some slicks on it and you have 12 second car.

A low compression LG4 with a Comp XE 262 cam, headers and performer RPM intake with a holley 600 VS made over 270 HP to the flywheel and over 300 ft/lbs of torque. With a pair of unmilled 350 Vortec heads and a single plane it made 325 HP and 308 TQ at the flywheel. If they had used angle milled 305 vortec heads it would have made even more power. That is more than enough power to run 13s in a full weight 3rd gen.

 

No , I had a very healthy 350 motor.

 

The truth is, there are a lot of outrageous claims and track times on this website. You can't believe everything you hear.

 

If you really wanna make a car run faster, Start with the heads. Sure by themselves they don't add much. For example. A certain set of Edelbrock heads only add 20 hp to a stock motor,but when you add a better intake, and then a cam to work within the new power range. You may end up adding close to 100hp.

 

What exactly are you arguing here, that a bolt on L98 won't run in the 12's...?

 

We don't and that's why we're calling on this situation... My car, on the other hand, exists and is still in my possession with EVERYTHING documented. Why?? Because a Car is NOTHING Unless You Can Prove It...

Ask any member that has met myself and my vehicle, it will walk right past that "14 seconder with all the bolt on mods"...

Ugh - My S2000 Roadster can run a 13.9!! Stock, on Street Tires!!!

Since I see your performance references went straight to discussing Edelcrap, I TOTALLY Understand Now why that car was running 14's...

 

Street Lethal

I didn't notice how long i've been missing off the board until I realized you now picked up an R35...

Am I jealous??

...maybe

 

Please don't be jealous, if I told you how much the insurance premiums were you would think I was freaking nuts. We rented one awhile back when we went to Atlantic City for the weekend, and I was so impressed with it that I traded in another car that I owned for this one. I am having a lot of trouble with this one though, it won't launch above 2500-RPM, even after having someone look at it, and it's pissing me off. The GTA might be going soon too, it's just too many damn headaches. Would like to get a few videos of the GTA against the GTR though before it goes...

 

Yea spoken from someone that couldn't break into the 13s with full bolt ons......

It does not take all that much HP to make something move out very well. Only the right gearing, stall speed, and tire/suspension setup.

My Ram running the stock exhaust manifolds and cats along with a 2,800 converter and 4.56s, only made 323 RWHP and weighed 5,350+ lbs.

 

Wow, i'm curious to know if the launch control is talking to the EMS improperly and tossing it the wrong code causing the standard launch protocol to default to a form of limp mode... That car is a Best Buy of Computers on 4 Wheels, absolutely spectacular; and of course if You need someone to Pilot the GTA for said race, i'm your guy

Trust me, I wouldn't jump to high over the premium - Only because a friend of the Family has one in silver... He feels like he's leasing it because of how high the insurance is... haha

Who are you taking it to? If you want PM so we can continue this convo off this thread - I might be able to get the Specialist that does the Maintenance on his to contact you personally if need be.

 

Just wait until it comes time to do tires, brakes, and a transmission fluid exchange....$$$$$$

 

Take this video for what it is, there were two members with me this night, and one of them talked me into running it when I didn't want to. '86 Z28 with an LG4 engine. Only mods were Holley 600 carb w/vacuum secondaries, 218/218 Lunati cam, and a no frills vacuum distributor just to avoid the ECM locking the timing. Stock block, stock trans, stock stall, stock open ended rear w/2.73 gears, stock exhaust, stock tires, stock everything else period. Car weighed 3500 pounds. The only exhaust you hear in the video belonged to the Corvette that I was racing as he was banging gears, as my Z28 was factory quiet, didn't make a freaking sound! Those who were with me that night knew immediately afterwards that this run was only on two barrels, the secondaries were bone dry. Second run after this one the problem was resolved, and I couldn't hook up for anything, blew right through the tire. So basically what your looking at is an LG4-305 with three mods; Holley 600 carb, 218 cam, and vacuum dizzy running a 14.7 @ 91mph on a 2.09 sixty foot, with only two barrels supplying fuel. Like I said, take the video for what it is, and I'm surprised I still even have it saved on my hard drive...

 

I wouldn't worry about it too much man...The dude is a troll with a capitol T. I realize these cars can be that quick and faster with minimal changes. I seem to remember a TBI 305 5spd car with minimal work running 14.20s with the stock cam and heads in place and deep into the 13s after a L98 aluminum head and custom cam setup.

That being said your 14.7 would have easily been low 14s even high 13s with drag radials, suspension tweaks, 3.45 gears and a performance oriented exhaust/header swap.

 

I would have liked to have seen what it ran that night when the secondaries were fixed in the pits. I pulled the car to the line for the second time, and one of the members was videoing it for me, but the tire spun the length of the 1/8th mile. Wouldn't hook up for anything, so he trashed the video. Would have seen a substantial increase in trap with the secondaries fixed with no other changes, but it was impossible to hook and that pretty much ended it. I'd love to get my hands on another LG4 one day to play with it... that was a very fun street car, definitelty miss owning it.

 

That's why I posted links. So you could SEE. Most of the outrageous claims I see here are outrageously slow....

 

I agree with you Matt. I went 9.6/9.7s (14.9s) essentially stock (170*F thermostat and TB coolant bypass) in my 5,300 lbs truck with an engine that allegidly only made 317 HP at the flywheel that was restricted to only 60% throttle from 0-35 mph and 45-55 mph. I used the Nissan scan tool to advance the timing 2*, put some traction enhancing leaf spring clamps on it, lowered the tire pressure, and ran a 9.48 @ 74.50. I never took it down the 1/4 in that trim, but took it later in much higher DA with an intake and muffler swap. I only ran a 15.03 @ 92.20 on a 9.68 1/8 mile time. Using the 15.03 and 9.68 1/8 mile correlation of that run, I would have run a 14.9 with only a 170*F thermostat and TB coolant bypass and 14.72 with only the intake, muffler, 2*, thermostat, TB coolant bypass and good weather.

 

my 89 formula 350 went 14.40s @ 98-99 mph bone stock on gatorbacks.
bump timing, fuel psi, full slp kit minus chip, and I went 13.50s on stock tires.
added tires, converter and a gear, unplug knock sensor, ported edelbrock base/SLP runners went 12.50s-70s.
out of box TFS heads, big SLP cam, lil weight reduction, 11.70s but this was in 94 ish
Some little mods are left out, like a trans that wouldn't let me shift full throttle or SLP underdrives, aluminum waterpump and lil supporting mods.
I did it all with a ...... STOCK 350 chip (which i still run on my car today) yes it needs tuned badly now that I have a 400 stroker and mini ram with a solid roller, AFR 235s and long tubes..

 

Thank you for posting information to back me up. With minimal modifications these TPI cars can fly. 12.50s on stock cam and heads is impressive. What were you trapping? 102-103 mph?

The old GM knock sensors I always found were over sensitive. I almost always desensitize them with the double resistor mod especially with a cam or 1.6s.

 

I hated the knock sensor on the maf cars. I just unplugged them. I picked up mph EVERY time i did. (most people cry about me doing it, so I just keep my mouth shut. then they wonder what all i did when I fly by them)
Its not just minimal mods but the right combo of mods. I was in a world without the net back then and did 99% of the stuff by just trying things.
I was always having transmission problems and could never shift the combo over 5K. Always had 2 lift-let-it-shift then nail it again. it killed my times.
I was pulling the front tires (yes both) on the street when I was running 12.70s. not a lot, but would put daylight under them, so says my mustang buds from the day. I think my best 60' was in the 1.60s someplace.
I have 90% of my old time slips but they are faded and won't scan very well.


To add a lil fuel to the fire, the little turbo V6 89 TTAs could run 13.50s, stock, with street tires, on the right day, conditions and drivers. rated at? 240-250hp? Prolly closer to 270-300hp (like the 93-97 LT1s and 73-4 SD T/A an formulas)

 

Now your trying to tell my about right gearing? the right gearing for a tpi car with stock tpi intake and a 700r4 transmission is a 3:42 gear. That is the maximum you should go. A 3:73 would only get you a better 60ft time,but no quicker ET. Plus the idea is stay in the powerband ,that is why I recommend a 3:42.

 

That's turbo. That is why it ran those times. Totally different car. Same with the Grand Nationals. They ran low 14's with only 250 hp. It works totally different than N/A.

 

Explain your "double resistor mod".

 

Its fairly easy to accomplish. The knock sensor has a specific resistance that the ECM must see otherwise it gives a code. To desensitize the knock sensor you use a resistor in series with the knock sensor and a 2nd resistor between the signal wire and ground. This allows the circuit to have the OEM resistance value and desensitize the stock knock sensor at the same time.

 

Yes and no. I do understand the whats and Ys with the turbo (still 250hp-340ftlb rated) but the 73-4 SD cars were rated at 290-310hp and would run 13.5s stock also. They even weighed more.

 

To me its minor mods but like you say they have to be matched. Getting drastic would be fully lightning the car, building a stroker engine, and the like. Minor mods such as heads, cams, headers, rockers are something easily accomplished without having a garage full of tools.

I know what you mean on the 700r4 shifts..I also had one that would not shift without letting up on the throttle in my van. Manually shifting at 6,000 in cool weather I would run 14.5 @ 96 despite 5,300 lbs and 3.08s. Gotta love 45 mph in 1st. To fix the problem I converted it to a manual shift setup with a Transgo shift kit. The disadvantage is you must manually upshift and downshift every gear.

http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/f...t=101_1468.mp4

 

One of my fine 700r4s. clutches held, hard parts didn't. got a good vet servo in this one still. lol
Its hard to see in the pic but if I un bolt the pan the trans will fall apart.

 

I was being sarcastic. I was wondering why you were using two? There is only one knock sensor wire.

 

On the year I was working with, the ECM monitored the resistance value of the knock sensor and if the value was not correct it would turn on the check engine light. The 2nd resistor further desensitize the knock sensor and corrects the resistance to the stock specification.

 

I had one in my garage as a trophy for a while. Mine did not crater quite like that, but the case lugs that hold the steels, sheared off the case turning it into a 20 lbs piece of scrap aluminum.

 

I have found the maf cars you can just unplug them and be ok but the SD cars you cannot or it will set a code.

 

i remeber that night car should have been alot faster , but once we fixd the carb/fueling issues alls it did wa sspin one tire down half the track

 

so those 1.6 roller rocker arms help our tpi motors.i asked because i am getting some head work done now was we speak and i want to change the stock cam since it has 137,000 on the motor as is.so i figure the 1.6 roller rocker arms are the best way to go to help suport my siamease ported stock lower intake and mega ported slp runners.I do want o run full headers also or maybe just shorty headers since i plan on replacing the motor for a powerful 5.3 lm7.

BTW HAPPY NEW YEARS EVERY ONE.

 

1.6's may lean you out a little. More fuel helps

 

If he is running the stock Prom chip the lean out might be a blessing. The factory tunes are very rich on a stock car. Generally you will gain power from both the additonal airflow under the curve and additional lift, but you also run a full roller and get a friction reduction as well. I saw gains of 15 RWHP on a 200 HP TBI engine with full roller 1.6s and an almost unchanged air/fuel ratio.

 

Damn, thats a huge gain. Most get about 10flwhp

 

By the time I finished with that lowly little 8.75:1 compression 350 TBI I had 320 RWTQ and 250 RWHP.

 

I was 38 yrs. old when I bought my 1992 z in nov. 1991
they were pretty strong stock
ran 14.14 the very first time

 

I have never not known that, with the right minimal mods they can absolutely fly as well.

 

this picture poped into my mind everytime i stepped on the throtte in my twin turbo iroc till i swaped the 700r4 for a 4l80

i ended up blowing up 2 700's in the iroc the worst of the 2 broke the sprag when i did a street launch off the antilag system

 

race weight probably around 3500lbs. No slicks. I've tried to do some stopwatch 1/4 runs, traction is serious issue running 255/50 R16

 

Update: Dynoed the car and got 330hp and 420tq. Weight is 3300+me=3500lbs

HP: 330
TQ: 420
WGHT: 3500lbs

Most likely around 13 sec is my guess

 

Ok, so you have aftermarket heads,intake and cam. what heads?

 

Heads, intake, cam, full exhaust, runners, fuel pump and some other stuff.

Edelbrock heads. As said, last owner did these (and some others which I can't remember now) mods. BUT I'll get full list of all the mods in few weeks. I just can't live with the fact that I don't know exactly what is in my car. all I know that there is Mild LT cam, Edelbrock intake, Edelbrock heads, Edelbrock headers, new prom, Edelbrock y-pipe, Magnaflow cat-back, edelbrock runners and pertty much just edelbrock parts. And tune ofcourse. I can update all the mods here as soon as I get the list of them.