Our Sunfire's been pretty decent overall. The alternator pooped out and had to be replaced (but t'is the season) and the rear window defrost has quit. Right about the time we started needing it, it quit working. It doesn't appear to be anything obvious. Paul and Irocker, you guys have Sunfires too, right? This ever happen to you? I'm just wondering if it's a j-body thing. It quit working right after Schlueters did the GM recall work.

 

As stupid as it may seem....make sure that it is "plugged in" at the rear window. I am not sure how the sunfires are set up, but i know in my camaro the little plug-in's came loose on mine last spring.

I havent heard of that being an inherent problem iwht the sunfires, but I will ask a buddy of mine, if it is an ongoing problem with them he will certainly know what the fix is.

 

I haven't had that problem Tracey, but my car is a bit newer so perhaps it's a matter of time. But as David eluded to above, I believe it has the same type of plugs/connectors as the f-bodies do. Double check on that first. Also, sounds like a stupid question, but did you check/replace the fuse? I think the defroster runs on it's own circuit.

 

If the fuse checks out good, take a test light find a good ground (if the car came with one of those baby seat anchors in the back they work good, or a seat belt anchor) and check the grid where it starts on the window, I think you'll see it coming out from behind the window trim (if its the same as my wifes Cavalier) If it lights you can then check each line on the defroster if there is a scratch across the line it will not work (the grid is a live 12V) If the test light does not light you may have to take the window trim off to find where the bad connection is. If the grid has a scratched line you can but a kit to fix it from Canadian Tire.

Hope this helps
Mark

 

My buddy has a 2000 Cavillac that had the rear defroster crap out on. It was the switch in the console that fried and almost burned the car. I yanked the dash apart...not fun and found the connector on the rear of the switch completely melted.
From the dealer you have to buy the complete console face (with the *****) for about $250. I ended up getting it from a wrecker with the connector for $40! Coulnd't find any other problems, so just replaced it. Works fine now.

Yank off one of the wires at the rear window grid and check the current. His was around 18 or 19 amps whick corresponds to a resistance for ther grid of .67 ohms. Confirm that as well. Everyone knows V=I*R??