Help! pleasE!
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 33
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Help! pleasE!
Ok, for the 2nd time! (site logged me out after i got finsished writing all this!!!
Ok, 4 months ago my car just stopped running well, just out of the blue >:O I would have to apply lots of throttle just to keep it running , and even then, it would run BADLY. It would NOT idle. I checked compresssion in the 1st 3 cylinders, below spec (90 or so) and all plugs had oil deposits, so i figured, hey, great excuse to throw in a 350! (shoulda figured out what went wrong 1st
time!) I replaced the 02 sensor, but that didn't help.
So i get the 350 all together and it won't run well, just like b4. CRAP! i disconnet the MAF, no problem.
500 miles later...it's back. I was driving to autozone when the car just started dieing, i had to stomp on the gas just to crawl w/ LOTS of shuddering and bucking, and when i finally pulled over, there was smoke come from under the distributor and fromt he back of the car. There been lots of other problems though, so here everything, and hopefully you guys can come up w/ something, cuz i'm at a complete loss and think it may need an exorsism!
1)Smog pump was never re-installed, but i did get the TES headers and hooked everything up except, no belt driving air pump, and line going to cat disconnected.
2)Car has always overheated, both fans needed to keep at 220! fans won't kick on, at all, went all the way to 260 once.
3) Back end of Catalytic convertor glowing red before and after the car failed.
4) Car shows no difference w/ all or any of the 3 relays on driver side cowl disconnected!! I can't find any 2 sources that agree on what these are, some books say it's MAF BO, Fuel Pump, and MAF power, but when i replaced the MAF relay, it was in the middle.
5) I've been getting code 33/36 (maf/maf burn off) but i've been running w/ the maf disconnected
6) Sometimes my tachometer would go crazy, and the engine would be erratic, i disconnest EST, no problem, so i replaced the ign module, problem returned in 1 hour.
7) When finished i had a green/black wired connector at the front of the car and a black/blackred connector near distributor, what are they? They look like they'd connect, but i'd need some extension. I tried jumping them, no difference at all (before failure)
Here's the only things i can come up w/:
1) bad ECM
2) smoke was from burnt o2 sensor wire, which is way it started running super rich, and way cat was glowing (except it glew b4)
3) demon
I'm really at the end of my rope w/ this car, and i've got to move in 2 weeks!
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Ok, 4 months ago my car just stopped running well, just out of the blue >:O I would have to apply lots of throttle just to keep it running , and even then, it would run BADLY. It would NOT idle. I checked compresssion in the 1st 3 cylinders, below spec (90 or so) and all plugs had oil deposits, so i figured, hey, great excuse to throw in a 350! (shoulda figured out what went wrong 1st
time!) I replaced the 02 sensor, but that didn't help.
So i get the 350 all together and it won't run well, just like b4. CRAP! i disconnet the MAF, no problem.
500 miles later...it's back. I was driving to autozone when the car just started dieing, i had to stomp on the gas just to crawl w/ LOTS of shuddering and bucking, and when i finally pulled over, there was smoke come from under the distributor and fromt he back of the car. There been lots of other problems though, so here everything, and hopefully you guys can come up w/ something, cuz i'm at a complete loss and think it may need an exorsism!
1)Smog pump was never re-installed, but i did get the TES headers and hooked everything up except, no belt driving air pump, and line going to cat disconnected.
2)Car has always overheated, both fans needed to keep at 220! fans won't kick on, at all, went all the way to 260 once.
3) Back end of Catalytic convertor glowing red before and after the car failed.
4) Car shows no difference w/ all or any of the 3 relays on driver side cowl disconnected!! I can't find any 2 sources that agree on what these are, some books say it's MAF BO, Fuel Pump, and MAF power, but when i replaced the MAF relay, it was in the middle.
5) I've been getting code 33/36 (maf/maf burn off) but i've been running w/ the maf disconnected
6) Sometimes my tachometer would go crazy, and the engine would be erratic, i disconnest EST, no problem, so i replaced the ign module, problem returned in 1 hour.
7) When finished i had a green/black wired connector at the front of the car and a black/blackred connector near distributor, what are they? They look like they'd connect, but i'd need some extension. I tried jumping them, no difference at all (before failure)
Here's the only things i can come up w/:
1) bad ECM
2) smoke was from burnt o2 sensor wire, which is way it started running super rich, and way cat was glowing (except it glew b4)
3) demon
I'm really at the end of my rope w/ this car, and i've got to move in 2 weeks!
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 248
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From: nlr, ar
Re: Help! pleasE!
Originally posted by wplacrosse26
1)Smog pump was never re-installed, but i did get the TES headers and hooked everything up except, no belt driving air pump, and line going to cat disconnected.
2)Car has always overheated, both fans needed to keep at 220! fans won't kick on, at all, went all the way to 260 once.
3) Back end of Catalytic convertor glowing red before and after the car failed.
4) Car shows no difference w/ all or any of the 3 relays on driver side cowl disconnected!! I can't find any 2 sources that agree on what these are, some books say it's MAF BO, Fuel Pump, and MAF power, but when i replaced the MAF relay, it was in the middle.
5) I've been getting code 33/36 (maf/maf burn off) but i've been running w/ the maf disconnected
6) Sometimes my tachometer would go crazy, and the engine would be erratic, i disconnest EST, no problem, so i replaced the ign module, problem returned in 1 hour.
7) When finished i had a green/black wired connector at the front of the car and a black/blackred connector near distributor, what are they? They look like they'd connect, but i'd need some extension. I tried jumping them, no difference at all (before failure)
1)Smog pump was never re-installed, but i did get the TES headers and hooked everything up except, no belt driving air pump, and line going to cat disconnected.
2)Car has always overheated, both fans needed to keep at 220! fans won't kick on, at all, went all the way to 260 once.
3) Back end of Catalytic convertor glowing red before and after the car failed.
4) Car shows no difference w/ all or any of the 3 relays on driver side cowl disconnected!! I can't find any 2 sources that agree on what these are, some books say it's MAF BO, Fuel Pump, and MAF power, but when i replaced the MAF relay, it was in the middle.
5) I've been getting code 33/36 (maf/maf burn off) but i've been running w/ the maf disconnected
6) Sometimes my tachometer would go crazy, and the engine would be erratic, i disconnest EST, no problem, so i replaced the ign module, problem returned in 1 hour.
7) When finished i had a green/black wired connector at the front of the car and a black/blackred connector near distributor, what are they? They look like they'd connect, but i'd need some extension. I tried jumping them, no difference at all (before failure)
1 smog pump operation only needed on start up and cold start up.
can cause cat glow if exhaust has exesssive fuel inducing extra
oxygen to burn the extra fuel.
2 your temp is standing still or cruising.
standing still: retarded timing, ultra lean condition super over advanced
timing.
cruising: lack of air dam under nose to direct air flow accross the
radiator.
3 see #1
4 because the MIL indicated relay issues doesnt mean the relay is
bad. check the wiring and power to relays.
5 maf disconnected still reports the maf burn off wire hasnt received
its proper command.
6 disconnecting the four-wire connector just bypasses the computers
advancing mechanism.
7 the connectors sound emissions (egr, canister purge)
the swap to 350 from the 305 was sort ok, because you had under
lying issues only got compounded with the swap. because of the extra
cubic inches.
access a data scanner to determine if the O2 is lean or the block
learn is 150+
when you swapped, did you swap injectors too?
there are differences between 305 and 350 injectors. mainly a lean
condition. upping the fuel pressure is ok, but not for a long term fix.
your issues stem from a electrical fault. be it an incomplete ground
or bad ecm. still id use a data scanner to observe the sensors and
their outputs.airdeano
