New motor and no start
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 520
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From: Amarillo, Tx
Car: 1986 Z28
Engine: 355TPI 380hp
Transmission: Rebuilt 700r w/ Transgo Shift Kit
New motor and no start
Well I finally got my motor put back in but no start. It's holding steady fuel pressure, and I'm guessing that it's getting good fire due to the flames coming out the headers. I tested the grounds and they all seem ok. I'm pretty sure that we set the distributor in at #1 plug. I don't know what else to check. Is there something I'm missing? How would I know if the valves were set right?
It's a 355ci, hooker headers(open right now), 58mm Holley TB, SLP Runners, High Output Coil, cap, and rotor, and the list goes on and on.
It's a 355ci, hooker headers(open right now), 58mm Holley TB, SLP Runners, High Output Coil, cap, and rotor, and the list goes on and on.
Your plug wires aren't hooked up 
But really though, You have everything plugged back in? The engine needs to see the sensors to meter air and fuel properly.
The big ones are: MAP or MAF, IAC, TPS, IAT, and MAT.
Especially if you don't have the temp sensors plugged in, the ecm defaults to -40f, and then dumps about six times the amount of fuel in the engine that it would normally see.
I'd also pop the distributor back out, make sure your on TDC on COMPRESSION stroke. Cylinder 1 is going to see TDC twice during the combustion process. Align the distributor with where you want #1 to point, then align the oil pump drive with the slot on the bottom of the dist. shaft and pop it back in.
Then with everything hooked back up, have someone crank the engine while you slowly move the distributor advanced or retarded a little and see if you can get it to catch.
If you flooded it out, pop the plugs out and let it dry for a while. If you washed the cylinder walls down, it might be a good idea to change the oil too.
Oh, when you turn the key on, do you hear the pump prime?
If not, make sure the oil pressure switch above the oil filter is plugged in. That won't allow the pump to prime until it sees oil pressure. Won't entirely block the car out of starting usually, but it can make for some lloonng crank times.
Nice looking motor, btw

But really though, You have everything plugged back in? The engine needs to see the sensors to meter air and fuel properly.
The big ones are: MAP or MAF, IAC, TPS, IAT, and MAT.
Especially if you don't have the temp sensors plugged in, the ecm defaults to -40f, and then dumps about six times the amount of fuel in the engine that it would normally see.
I'd also pop the distributor back out, make sure your on TDC on COMPRESSION stroke. Cylinder 1 is going to see TDC twice during the combustion process. Align the distributor with where you want #1 to point, then align the oil pump drive with the slot on the bottom of the dist. shaft and pop it back in.
Then with everything hooked back up, have someone crank the engine while you slowly move the distributor advanced or retarded a little and see if you can get it to catch.
If you flooded it out, pop the plugs out and let it dry for a while. If you washed the cylinder walls down, it might be a good idea to change the oil too.
Oh, when you turn the key on, do you hear the pump prime?
If not, make sure the oil pressure switch above the oil filter is plugged in. That won't allow the pump to prime until it sees oil pressure. Won't entirely block the car out of starting usually, but it can make for some lloonng crank times.
Nice looking motor, btw
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 520
Likes: 0
From: Amarillo, Tx
Car: 1986 Z28
Engine: 355TPI 380hp
Transmission: Rebuilt 700r w/ Transgo Shift Kit
Well, as usual, just when I think I have everything set right, the dist. was a 180* out. Turned it around, bolted up the ypipe, turned the key, and boom, she fired right up. The only thing now is an exhaust leak. Should I put the squeeze on the ball flanges to tighten then up, or is there a gasket or something that goes between the headers and ypipe?
Glad you got it running 
All the headers I've ever seen have a collector flange that mates to another flat flange on the y-pipe. The ball flanges and ball seals are not reused. I wouldn't just tighten it, that will probably just warp the flange on the collector.

All the headers I've ever seen have a collector flange that mates to another flat flange on the y-pipe. The ball flanges and ball seals are not reused. I wouldn't just tighten it, that will probably just warp the flange on the collector.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Aurora, IL
Car: 92 Camaro
Engine: ZZ4 350 HSR
Transmission: G-Force T5
I just went through the same exact scenario as you...New setup, everything hooked up correct, cranks with good fuel pressure, but no start.
I too, had my distributor 180* out of phase - fixed that and it fired right up. Timing is set. No leaks and good oil pressure. Now to adjust a couple of loud rockers just a bit tighter, more fuel pressure, and take her for a spin
I can't beleive how something so simple can leave you sitting with a "bum engine"
I too, had my distributor 180* out of phase - fixed that and it fired right up. Timing is set. No leaks and good oil pressure. Now to adjust a couple of loud rockers just a bit tighter, more fuel pressure, and take her for a spin
I can't beleive how something so simple can leave you sitting with a "bum engine"
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