i swear the plenum on that thing looked identical to the TPI it even had the spot were the plate says tuned port injected on the tpi but on the vette it was a blank plate

 

then on the side of the plenum to the valve covers it had a black piece of plastic that said corvette in red lettering ....you guys are prolly right because the engine was really short just like the LT1 motors but maybe it is an tpi just trying to give more information that may help

 

Heads, cam , intake, and carb. Which setup? I'm not sure yet, but looking for low 12's high 11's. That should be enough to take down LS1's

 

Good luck. I don't have much faith you'll go that fast without knowing what setup you want - especially in a true street car, but hey, anything is possible.

There are bolt on LS1's in the 11's, but you'll more than likely only ever run into stock cars (like mine for the time being).

 

Thankfully I am not a friend of yours and therefore do not need your "faith" to go that fast. The reason I don't know exactly what setup I want is because I haven't decided how extreme to go yet or how streetable I want to be. I have considered a Holley stealth ram, even an LS1 swap, but then I thought "why?" I don't know how to tune those setups. So I have decided to go with carburated.

Also, don't be so defensive because someone says his car will be faster than yours, I'm not gonna go out looking for LS1's to beat, but, I will be capable of it. And, the only LS1's I've seen that ran 11's sounded like they run 11's, just like mine will. (although I'm sure there are some that are sleepers)

P.S. I don't drive my car every day, it's a 92 with 60xxx miles

 

hey now, calm down, this site is supposed to be for helpin people not for startin trouble with people and once again i dont give a **** about the LS1 and i still dont have a clear answer to my question..im getting different answers to my question

 

I agree, I'm not trying to cause any trouble either, if I did I apologize.

Now, if I were you I would go with the LT1 swap if the price was right and you had NO intrest in high performace modifications. But if thats not the case then i would go with a TPI or any standard Chevy small block 350. Like someone said earlier, there are just too many parts available for it, they are easy the get and for the most part they are less expensive.

 

If you're debating on which one to swap into a 3rd gen to try and make money off of it.....good luck! There are VERY FEW thirdgens collectable enough to be considered an investment. And no lets not bring up the occasional fool that somebody knows who paid way too much for one. Unlike custom hot rods that are more rare and antique....modding a thirdgen is not going to make it an investment you can profit by. Especially once you consider all things aside from cost like time, hassle, scouring for parts, etc. The thirdgen hobby is more like a labor of love....a hobby.

If you have the money, the tools and place to swap it in and the resources to do an LT1 swap.....do it. The motors don't cost much more than what a low mileage L98 (which is hard to find) would. The LT1 will give you instant satisfaction of being respectably quick. The port design of the heads is in every way superior to L98 or B2L TPI motors. There are many shops in north america that can work serious magic on LT1 or better yet LT4 heads. Plus the short block can be built up just as stout as an L98.
There's even a solution to the opti-spark problems.

Unless you really like the look of the long runner TPI system or a super ram....get an LT1. To even make an L98 run as well as a properly tuned stock LT1 you'd have to have done some pretty serious mods that would have put you well past the cost of the LT1 motor in the first place.

If you're starting from scratch with a car that had neither...you may consider the route I've chosen....
1) Build a killer traditional style sbc motor to suit your needs
2) Buy a Holley or Edelbrock or Accel Multiport Fuel Injection System that uses a single plane intake and 4 barrel throttle body.
These systems give good lowend numbers and upper rpm capability. Although to save money, I pieced mine together instead of buying a complete kit.

My car had a vortec TPI setup on it when I bought it, and I sold that stuff and started over. If it would have had an LT1, I would have kept it and built that up.

 

I'm not, I'm just saying that every person that ever is "planning" on something usually ends up coming with nothing. Maybe you'll actually have something that works.

I could say I am planning on something too, but I don't have anything other than a 13.2, so I'm not going to run on about what I think my car will run.

 

. Who are these "people" that you are talking about? I am not some punk 19 year old. I am a grown man who has built a few cars and helped build a few more. When I decide to do something I do something. As of this point I have decided to do "something" and i will. So, if you wanna think that because I don't know exacty what Im gonna go and that I haven't bought any parts that it means I'm going to "come with nothing" (what ever that means) then you think that. I hope it makes you fell better about yourself and your LS1

 

Hey drain what was wrong with the vortec tpi setup and what type of manifold was used in that setup?

 

**** this ....abubaca you should just lock this thread because its not helping me none when people are just aruging

 

well whats ur main question what do u need to know?

 

im just wondering which would be a simpler swap and which one am i gonna get the best performance and reliability from for the lowest cost..i dont want a drag racer i want a daily driver a stock LT1 or TPI should be pleanty fast enough

 

are u into modifying at all and messing around with the engine or no? If not and u want something quick and ready to go, go with the LT1

 

i want a reliable motor and ive only heard bad things from this opi spark thing

 

My combo was: Low mileage 99 model vortec 350 long block from a truck. SDPC TPI base. LT1 injectors. SLP runners. Ported plenum. SLP 1 3/4" headers. T56. 3.73 rear. Regular LT4 cam. No Cat. Mass Air with stock 86 prom (which also caused it to run a little rich with the bigger injectors). I know the cam was a tad small and a proper tune would help but overall I wasn't impressed. I know stock SLP runners aren't that great either, but even if all 3 of those things were addressed I still think the car would have lacked on the top end. Down low it was a torque monster......but at about 4500 (per the lazy factory tach) it ran out of steam. It wasn't the vortec's. In fact...they impressed me enought that I bought a set of pro topline vortec's (still brand new and for sale BTW!) and then some e-tec 200's once I decided to go hog wild. I will say that it was the perfect setup for a supercharger or a 150 shot!
I decided to go a different direction. If you look at my sig you'll see what I'm cookin with so far.

I answered camarors8992's question. I guess he didn't want to read it. I'll give him the short version:
You won't profit from either swap. Because it's a thirdgen and the expense of mods...you'll still lose money when you sell it. Since it's not an original L98 car; you would most likely get more money back with an LT1 in it(assuming the swap is done right).

 

im not trying to make a profit i plan on having this car forever and they only way im not is if it gets crashed to the point of no return for example a bent fram

 

I don't remember you saying easy swap and reliable....your wording (at least how I interpreted it...was implying that you were concerned about value. But I think I see where you're going with this.

If you want ease...TPI would because it's a direct swap using all oem parts. Won't be as fast as the LT1, but if a 350 TPI makes you happy and will continue to do so once the new wears off then that's great.

Or...if you want a tpi car, sell yours and buy a 350 tpi one. There's plenty out there and I see great deals on them all the time. You'll have less in it than what you will if you combine the value of your car and the cost of the parts. That's not including your time, effort, and frustration in doing the swap.

 

and i did read it i was ignoring you because you must not want to read it all...I DIDNT MENTION i wanted to make a profit im not doing this to make some money im doin this because im not happy with the 3.1s performance and the odds of me finding a 1992 z28 with a 350 white with red stripes and a grey interior are against me so ill do a swap

 

In fact, for what you'd have in your car plus the cost of swapping. You could sell yours and buy an l98 car that probably already had some good mods to it.
Food for though, huh?
Good Luck on whatever you choose.
draino

 

was the vortec set up for a daily driver or just a week end car? Im doing almost the same set up, and the motor is almost done. Did u try messing with the runners and plenum to try and get more at top end?

 

That's what led me off on my tangent. But I see what you were asking. You're meant bang for the buck.
My bad (geez....I've got to lay off the crack pipe) j/k
I still think that you'd be better off selling yours and buying one.
No offense bro...I've seen many white 92's with gray interior sold. There out there. Probably the second most popular color combo next to red exteriors. You can have the stripes put on. If you're worried about value. It's not valuable...it's just a damn z28. What minimal extra value your car has by being a 92 with heritage stripes will be void once you butcher the cars originality to swap in a non original drivetrain.
None of that was said to offend BTW....just trying to give you the straight dope here and try and save you some money. AND time, hassle, work, etc. etc. etc.
Hell I've spent over.....well hell I'm too ashamed to say how much I've spent on my car but it's one hell of a lot and when it's done it will be a badass car that's I can get maybe $10k out of if I'm lucky and patient. That's why I'll probably never sell it.

 

vortec77... it was a street car. I drove it from Long Island NY to Huntington WV the night I bought it and it run good. Don't get me wrong...it run real good, considering it's prom. Fun car. It just didn't have enough up top. I've dealt with TPI cars enough to know that the Long Runner TPI was the big limit or the reason it hit the RPM "brick wall". I thought about switching to AS&M siamesed runners and porting the baseplate, and 58mm tb, but I knew that would only get me to mid 5k in rpm.
I think were you and me have different goals. After owning an LS1 car....I want something that will sing! Plus a good low end grunt and a nice torque curve.
It's a euphoric feeling shifting at 6400-6600 rpm! And a long runner tpi setup just wont do that.
If you want a blueprint for an excellent 350 vortec tpi street setup: check out the posts from 1bad91z. I've never seen him post an actual dyno sheet or timeslip...but from his accounts his car is impressive.

 

I've taken my comments that don't pertain to your questions to private messages.

 

This is not my forum. I have no powers.

As for your question, there is no clear answer. I've always lived with the idea that when it comes to buying parts, I want to be able to fully explain to someone why I chose the parts that I did. I don't ever want to say "because the guys on TGO said so". That doesn't mean we don't know what we're talking about, it also doesn't mean that you and I and everyone won't make mistakes to learn by.

It means that you have to make an educated decision. We've given you a BIG headstart, but ultimately you have to make the decision, and if I were you, I'd wait until I was fully confident in that decision.


I mean this with the utmost respect. If you can't tell what motor you buddy has in his Vette, then maybe you should wait. Don't get me wrong, there's no shame in not being able to tell the difference, I'm just saying that there's a LOT that goes into the project, and you really need to know what you're getting into.

Please don't take that the wrong way.

 

93 was the first year of the 4th gen, we all know that. The Z and the TA had the LT1. I GUARANTEE that the Camaro didn't have an LT1 while the Vette still had the TPI.

...so your buds Vette has and LT1/LT4, (Gen-II small block)

 

i know my motors pretty well but the top end of that motor looked identical to a TPI but all the lt1s ive seen never looked like that i dunno maybe the top ends are different in a vette

 

hey people im sry if i seemed to start being an ******* but i was getting irritated that everyone was going off topic on stuff that has not pertaining to the topic...well im just gonna do a little looking around for a TPI maybe even a new car ive always dreamed of an 89 iroc 350 but those are a bit pricey but i would prefer to keep my car because its a true heritage car im looking for value i just like them and putting those stripes on a non heritage car isnt right it shouldnt be dont but thats just my opinion.

 

The only "true" heritage car is one that has the heritage appearance package. If you don't have those and the color matched wheels/grill, then you've simply just got a 25th anniversary badge on your dash.

I'd also just get a new car.

And the only year the LT4 was offered in the Vette was 96.

 

didn't know that. ...I shoulda said GenII smallblock

I understand wanting to keep a given car for whatever reasons, but I agree that if it's not a "Heritage Edition" car, then I wouldn't bother. A new car is the best bet.

...but like I said, we all have different reasons for keeping cars.

 

I'd agree. I don't know many things, and i'm always learning something new everyday - but I've also learned A TON in my miniscule 5 years of dealing with "sports" and "performance" vehicles. It sounds like our friend might just need some more experience before making his decision - and that's what this site is for

 

my car is a true heritage edition :lala:

 

Does it have the RPO? I'm just asking since the pic in the sig doesn't have stripes.

 

yes its Z03 it doesnt have the stripes because when i bought it it had no front end on it and i replaced it wite a green front end and spray painted the front white since i cant drive yet anyways

 

Fair enough

I'd still just buy a new car though lol

 

your crazy im never selling my car :lala:

 

hes just jealous cuz he doesnt have a 3rd gen heritage edition

 

Yeah ive seen 1bad91z's engine and status, and it is impressive. The difference he did was the stage III Porting on his vortec heads and a bigger cam and hes got siamesed runners and a bigger throttle body too. Im thinking of getting siamesed slp runners and a 52 mm Throttle body too. Im starting to get some crap at my job from a guy in the shop who has a 76' T/A but the thing is he doesnt know what he has. He bought the car with a knock in it from some kid, he took it apart and found the threaded rod that the air cleaner wing nut is installed on, between a piston and a valve. He got a new piston, which was forged and bored 30 over i believe and put it all together. It sounds nice and the cam sounds pretty lopey, but thats all, its a pontiac 400 with a holley on it, hes pretty confident that his car is pretty fast. Im not saying it isnt but im thinking i have more torque and hp in my 350.I know those pontiac motors had some good torque, what do ya think?

 

OK, stock l98 350 TPI motor is nice. 4500rpm limit though and only about 230-245 horses depending on exhaust flow. Quick off the line and gives you good thrill in your pants when the tach rolls thru 3000rpms. But TPI will leave you wanting more after a while. LT1 is a little quicker and just as fast off the line if you have stick. Stock for stock, LT1 with 6-speed vs L98 auto, the LT1 will outrun it easy as long as the Lt1 driver is good. The gearing is better so torque is multiplied more leading to quicker acceleration.

Suprised no one said this. Why dont you get L98 from somewhere and add LT1 intake manifold? Get it converted to old style small block bolt pattern. That way, you get LT1 looks, and performance in a easier to install motor, without the Optispark. No reverse coolant either.

Thats a good route for you. Upgrading TPI is not cheap. Unless Ebay miracle deals. Think about this, LT1 intake off of ebay and converted to L98 is like 300-400 dollars. TPI runners themselves are 250-400+ dollars. Next add a base for 300-400 dollars and portmatch it all and your talking 600-800 dollar TPI setup that still WILL NOT make as much power as mildly modded LT1. Sell the TPI on the motor already on ebay for 100 bucks. Someone will buy it. That makes the LT1 idea even cheaper.

Simple headers, gears, cam swap into LT1 will yeild low 13's. TPI cars need heads, complete exhaust, Full blown TPI system, cam, and chipped to run well into the low 13's then 12's. granted Your not looking for this performance, but still LT1 intake conversion is your best bet.

Only way I would stay TPI if I were you is if you like its look and dont plan on running any better than 13.7's or so. Also TPI if you go superram which I consider TPI. superram is first choice above all to me, but aint cheap, 800-1200. A good reliable Daily driven LT1 can be cheaply made to run 13.5's or better.

 

Obviously.

 

lol