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L98 >>> 383 stroker?

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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 10:51 AM
  #1  
JayBoCC2's Avatar
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From: Bay Area California
Car: '88 trans am GTA
Engine: 5.7L 355 TPI L98
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: eaton posi 3.73 gears
L98 >>> 383 stroker?

is it worth it to convert the L98 to a 383 stroker or would i be better off in the future gettin a dif block... thanks or is the l98's downfalls due to the tpi and not the block itself
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 02:04 PM
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From: Red Bud, Illinois
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: Pro-Built 700R4 2400 ACT Stall
Axle/Gears: 2.77 Borg Warner 9-Bolt
The increased bore and stroke itself won't be the magical cure. The downfall of the L98 is not the block but the intake system itself depending on what your expecting to do with it. The stock TPI system makes for a great street intake setup but lacks a little when it comes to larger cams and heads. Like i said it just depends on what you are wanting to do with your setup and what your expecting.
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 09:07 PM
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JayBoCC2's Avatar
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From: Bay Area California
Car: '88 trans am GTA
Engine: 5.7L 355 TPI L98
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: eaton posi 3.73 gears
well im goin for all motor into the 10 seconds 1/4mile et but still streetable i already have a large ammount of goodies into the L98 TPI, everthing for the stage for TIPs chip, including the chip... backed up by a beefy th-400 though im gonna be puttin in a manual within the year....
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 11:28 PM
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CC89Formula's Avatar
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From: Amarillo TX
Car: 89 Formula
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
If you make an L98 into a 383 your gonna burn tires for blocks! They both make tons of bottom end torque, you might want to rethink that.
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 06:57 PM
  #5  
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Originally posted by CC89Formula
If you make an L98 into a 383 your gonna burn tires for blocks! They both make tons of bottom end torque, you might want to rethink that.
What would you have to do, chip burning wise?
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 10:17 PM
  #6  
91305Z28's Avatar
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From: South Texas
Car: Camaro
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
i'm planning to buy a 383 next week and using my ported tpi and 350 heads. will this be ok until i get diffrent heads or is it a waste of time.
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 10:27 PM
  #7  
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From: Amarillo TX
Car: 89 Formula
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by 2new2funny
What would you have to do, chip burning wise?
I dont know anything about chip burning, that i cant help you with.

Originally posted by 91305Z28
i'm planning to buy a 383 next week and using my ported tpi and 350 heads. will this be ok until i get diffrent heads or is it a waste of time.
Yes they should work fine, the only problem i see with a 383 TPI is its going to be a torque monster thats going to leave rubber for about 3 blocks.
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 08:35 AM
  #8  
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From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
A 383 TPI powered N/A 10 sec car is possible, but unlikely. Many people have trouble getting into the 12's with a N/A 350 and TPI.

The block you recieved is most likely a 2 bolt main, you probably want a 4 bolt main. The 2 bolts are not good for much beyond a mild performance 350. If you want to stick with a 2 bolt main, get one with a higher nickel content. Do not wate your time with splayed mains either. For the cost of installing them, you could buy a 4 bolt main block.

If you want a 10 sec. car, start looking into other intakes like the HSR or LT1 or mini ram or converted single plane intakes. It will be easier to get 10 sec with those.

Also, if I were you I would start buying replacement parts right now, because you will break ALOT of components.
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 09:03 AM
  #9  
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From: MI
Car: I
Engine: Taunt
Transmission: Mustangs
Originally posted by Tibo
The block you recieved is most likely a 2 bolt main, you probably want a 4 bolt main. The 2 bolts are not good for much beyond a mild performance 350. If you want to stick with a 2 bolt main, get one with a higher nickel content. Do not wate your time with splayed mains either. For the cost of installing them, you could buy a 4 bolt main block.
2 bolt converted to a 4 bolt (w/splayed caps) is stronger than a factory 4 bolt according to the late and great Johnny L. If they are indeed the same price, I'd go with the conversion.

As others have said, the LTR manifold is mismatch with what you want to do, especially with the thought of going manual later.

And last but not least, I don't think your goals are reasonable. You need over 500rwhp to push a full weight f-body into the tens. Good luck even getting 500hp at the crank with a NA 383. Id say your best bet would be to build a stout 383 and hit it with a 100 or so shot of juice.

Last edited by Dustin Mustangs; Mar 18, 2005 at 09:09 AM.
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 10:26 AM
  #10  
JayBoCC2's Avatar
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From: Bay Area California
Car: '88 trans am GTA
Engine: 5.7L 355 TPI L98
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: eaton posi 3.73 gears
right now i just got the 350 tpi been punched once, still in good shape, can still see crossgrinding.

mods to it are:
zz-9 hydraulic camshaft
1.5 exhaust, 1.6 intake rocker rollers
alum heads
alum exhaust headers short style
roller tappets
valve springs
modified maf sensor, flows ~750cfm instead of 529cfm
high intensity msg ignition coil and distributor
open air element w/ k&n filter
58mm throttle body w/ air foil flows little over 1100cfm
"big mouth" alum intake manifold
"large tube" runners
adjustable fuel pressure regulator
new harmonic balancer
all alum underdrive pulley set
larger oil pan as well as external oil cooling for tranny
stage4 chip from TPIs
12:1 compression


some more i probably forgot but its early and i just gave blood so im a little light headed...

Last edited by JayBoCC2; Mar 18, 2005 at 10:34 AM.
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 10:45 AM
  #11  
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From: Shakopee, Mn
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: T5
That is an impressive setup but I am not seeing it reach 10's without some sort of power adder. I have buddies that are running a more radical setup than that and are in the 11's. Please do not take this post as a rip I am just stating my opinion.
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 03:17 PM
  #12  
Tibo's Avatar
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From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
Originally posted by Dustin Mustangs
2 bolt converted to a 4 bolt (w/splayed caps) is stronger than a factory 4 bolt according to the late and great Johnny L. If they are indeed the same price, I'd go with the conversion.
Good Point.

But my point was not so much as which was stronger, just that it would need less machine work, therefore be faster and easier to put together.
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 06:35 PM
  #13  
JayBoCC2's Avatar
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From: Bay Area California
Car: '88 trans am GTA
Engine: 5.7L 355 TPI L98
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: eaton posi 3.73 gears
whatever ammount of work goes into it doesn't matter to me, strength and quality is what i want... and yea the setup is rather disappointing to me... and i dont expect to be into the 10's, i was think maybe 12's... im feeling a miss every so often and i know its drainin power... so i still have a lot of work to do before she's runin at 100%
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