FOR THE LIFE OF ME I CANNOT FIGURE THIS OUT.
MY IROC RUNS GREAT WHEN MOVING, BUT AT IDLE, IT MISSES AND AND SKIPS. I CANNOT FIND THE PROBLEM EVEN WITH ALL NEW COMPONENTS YOU CAN IMAGINE CHANGING.

 

Do a compression test..

 

i know this sounds stupid, but the engine is basically new. I just turned maybe 13,000 miles. I drive it mostly about 10 miles a day, with a couple of long trips on the odometer. I will do a test this weekend for the hay of it.
And I keep a regular change on the fluids with Royal Purple 5W30 Synthetic every 3000. I didn't break in the motor with this oil. Regular 5W30.

 

At WOT does it miss or skip? Also, when you say it misses, are you sure it's missing or is it choking? What RPM does the engine idle at?

 

Any air leak after the input sensors but before the throttle body will cause the computer to fail at fuel delivery only during idle. Make sure you have no leaks and then check the IAC motor and TPS.

 

IT IDLES AT 950 TO 1000 RPM. MOSTLY 1000 RPM'S. I HAVE CHECKED FOR LEAKS, AND FOUND NONE. I HAVE CHECKED FOR VACUUM LEAKS AND FOUND NONE. I'M CONFUSED AT THIS POINT. I'M EXPERIENCING WHAT FEELS LIKE A THUMPING SENSATION WHILE IDLING. I CANNOT EXPLAIN IT ANY BETTER I'M AFRAID.
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THE IAC AND TPS HAS BEEN CHECKED AND THEY ARE IN SPEC. NOT INCLUDING THE FACT THAT THEY ARE NEW.

 

Timing. Your idle is way too high anyway which sounds like excessive timing or a vacuum leak.

 

I CHANGED THE TIMING FOR THE HECK OF IT. NO DIFFERENCE. THE COMPRESSION TEST WAS ALL NORMAL. I CHANGED THE PLUGS AND CAP AND ROTOR, NO CHANGE. I GIVE UP.

 

TAKE OFF YOUR CAPS LOCK CAUSE IT MEANS YOU YELLING IN INTERNET LAND

Go thru the basics.

The motor hasnt been in the car that long.

And the rest of the components are 15+ yrs old now too.

Do some investigating, just dont throw parts at it.

Check carefully for correctly routed wiring and that all power and grounds are good. Pickup coils can cause intermittent missing at idle as well as a little oil from worn valve stem seals can.

MAke sure you have no vacuum leaks and everything is as proper as can be before you go on with further diagnosis.

Getting pissed off and/or throwing parts at it wont let u get the car fixed any sooned. We've all been there.

Start simple ad verify everything.

See if there is someone near you who can help out.

Lots of info available here thru searching as well

later
Jeremy

 

Thanks Jeremy and Sorry guys. I'm not trying to yell at everyone.
Your right I shouldn't throw parts at it. I do have two friends that are diesel mechanics, and they have given me the advice I've used to replace such parts.
I love this car and I'm just desperate to fix it before the wife says to get rid of it. The distributor is new also, so I know the pick-up coil is new.
So, I'm still at square one. Thanks again guys. And girls that apply.

 

lol

Simple matter of fact statement:

New means squat :-) Check it out anyways.

Thouroughly check things out and report back what u find and we can help you the best we can over the puter.

 

About five years ago my car was acting almost exactly the same, exept my idle was set at about 500. It would drive just fine, but when I got to a light or had to stop, the car would sputter, and want to stall. I would have to hold the throttle at about 1000 just to keep it running, but it still didn't sound right. Since your idle is about that, the car wouldn't stall on you. My issue turned out to be my MAF. Of course it also triggered a code. Make sure your engine light is operational and not throwing any codes.

 

No codes, I even have a Snap-on scanner on it and it tells me everythings in spec.

 

OK, Now I'm getting somewhere. While fixing my vacuum lines to where they are supposed to go, I found one of my dual coil connectors to be frayed and about to break. Luckily I had an extra connector in perfect shape to replace it. But, it still has a minor skip/miss to it. It's very suttle, but it's still there. The performance is way better though.

 

With things running crappy you may have fouled the plugs. I'd check them again.

 

I'm sorry I forgot to mention I also had replaced the plugs when I did the rerouting of vacuum lines. I also hade changed the oil and did the brakes all the way around. So I don't think the plugs were it. Maybe not anyway.