Currently I have a 72 GMC pickup with a TPI 350 in it. In the spring, I'm going to begin a frame off restoration of it (pretty much have the money already, and its in decent shape, so I hope to finish it within a year). I'm also going to be making it into a shortbed. I'm running 3.73 gears right now with a 700r4 tranny with stock converter. Also, I currently have 28" tall tires. I'm shooting for 300-350 RWHP with torque similar to stock or a little more.

That leads me to the engine. Obviously after the restoration it won't be a daily driver, so I can stand a rougher idle. I'm going to be using it as a bracket racer, cruiser, and car shows.

I've been doing some looking online here and there and have came up with a few ideas...which of course leads to questions.

First. I'm looking at vortec heads. I know with my goals I'll have to get the ones already modified for higher lift from Scogin Dickey or others. For the money, are these the best bang for the buck? Or are there other heads out there for a similar price that will get better results? I also saw GMPP is now offering a Bowtie Vortec head. They're a little more expensive, but flow better than the standard vortecs. What is the advantage/disadvantage of different sized runners?

Next, the intake. After looking at what options are available (especially for the vortec heads) I'm thinking the holley stealth ram. Its reasonably priced and should be able to give me the power and RPM band that I want. I can't believe how much the other vortec baseplates are...and you're still left with the restrictive runners and upper plenum.

Next, the cam. I know there are literally hundreds of cams out there; too many for me to sort through, being fairly new to the TPI world. So I was thinking the LT4 hotcam, ZZ4 cam, or I saw a comp 306 cam. What else would work well with the combo I'm laying out so far.

I'm also going to be going with roller rockers.

Is the stock throttle body up to this? I think on the stealthram I can use an LT1 TB also (or am I wrong).

While doing this rebuild, is it neccessary to replace the lifters? I know you can re-use the lifters, but while I'm at it, is it a worthwhile upgrade?

What about the connecting rods? Are they strong enough to hold together.

I figure I'll have the block machined and use the stock crank. Get new forged pistons.

Obviosly I have a lot of questions on what to use. I want your opinions on where I should go, and what experiences with any of these parts you've had. Also, open to other suggestions.

Thanks

 

with what you are talking about doing U will be over the 350rwhp line

Thats all good!

making the cam decision last, is the key.

stock lifters will work untill they dont work anymore-unless you are going over the 550 lift, roller lifters are all about the same

I would only change out the lifters if you are in fact going solid

the main thing you havent told us, is where you want the rpms

If you are going over 6k then you will need a forged balanced crank and some better rods. if not after an inspection at a machine shop the rods should be OK

If you are not running nitrous and not going over the 6k mark you should not have to buy forged pistons. hyperkenetic flat tops should do the trick.

I do not know much about the heads and intake setup, bieng I run a 305 so maybe some else could chime in on that subject


Good Luck!
My bird eats 5.7 gto's on the open road.
Keep the 3rd Gen ALIVE!

 

I have a 69 c-10

 

You should easily be able to reach your goals with a mild cam that will have a good idle. If you want a rough idle than that is another story. The key to power is good heads and of course the supporting mods in the intake and exhaust system. So buy the best heads you can afford.

No problem with keeping the stock crank. I'm currently running stock rods but in by current building up I'm running the GM powdered metal rods. The Holley Stealth Ram is an excellant choice.

Comp Cams has the XFI series of cams that would work out well for you. Maybe the one with 218 degrees on the intake might best in your situation. There is also the custom cam route for not much more money. They would be taylored to your setup.

 

I'm thinking of spinning the engine up to 6500 RPMS (up to the top of the range of the HSR)

I've never been a fan of nitrous, but I was thinking that if I built the engine for it, a little bit would be fine....so that's a possibility.

 

In that case you will need a larger cam. 230 degree or so.

 

the greatest engine builders in the world wait untill they have gotten every performance part first and practically have the longblock built before worrying about the cam