Carb to TPI fuel pump - in tank or out?
Carb to TPI fuel pump - in tank or out?
Anyone who has done this swap got an opinion on the best way to install the fuel pump? Would it be easier/better to mount an inline pump or use the factory in tank jobbie? What about the fuel lines - do I need to replace the entire run? Do I need a surge tank ahead of the pump if I use an inline pump?
Ta.
Ta.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Are you trying to do a similar to stock with all the emissions stuff? I need to know that but here's an idea if you dont need the emissions, specifically the charcoal canister:
Use the stock feed line for the fuel feed, but make sure to change the rubber hoses to high pressure FI line. Its kinda pricey FYI.
Use the charcoal can line for the return, again you need the $$$$ FI hose. Run an external pump, and install it where the fuel filter sits on the FI cars, which is right in front of the driver side rear wheel, in the recessed area of the floor pan under there. Stuff a fuel filter in there too, between the engine and pump. The stock vented gas tank system isnt going to work right with this setup, so you need a vented cap. The other way is to get the stock sender/fuel pump hanger for the tank and use that, which has a vent line and a line for the return besides the charcoal can line and feed line. In any case I think you will have to pull the tank, because there is a plastic piece on the end of the charcoal can line that will probably restrict flow from the return line if you decide to use the stock sender.
Generally, in pump tanks are quieter, but of course harder to replace when they go bad.
Use the stock feed line for the fuel feed, but make sure to change the rubber hoses to high pressure FI line. Its kinda pricey FYI.
Use the charcoal can line for the return, again you need the $$$$ FI hose. Run an external pump, and install it where the fuel filter sits on the FI cars, which is right in front of the driver side rear wheel, in the recessed area of the floor pan under there. Stuff a fuel filter in there too, between the engine and pump. The stock vented gas tank system isnt going to work right with this setup, so you need a vented cap. The other way is to get the stock sender/fuel pump hanger for the tank and use that, which has a vent line and a line for the return besides the charcoal can line and feed line. In any case I think you will have to pull the tank, because there is a plastic piece on the end of the charcoal can line that will probably restrict flow from the return line if you decide to use the stock sender.
Generally, in pump tanks are quieter, but of course harder to replace when they go bad.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,466
Likes: 71
From: Alberta, Canada
Car: 1989 Camaro-1LE
Engine: TPI(s)
Transmission: 5 speed (MM5, MK6)
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.73
I did a TPI swap on a non F-body vehicle. I used an external pump. It is mounted on the frame at the lowest point in the fuel line routing as close to the tank as possible.
It was simple to install and easy to get at should I need to change it. About the only thing I do not know, is if the pump has capacity for the high rpm use. I have doubts since I have not measured it, but I have never felt any problems.
Whatever pump you get, make sure it has ample capacity.
Being the cheapo guy that I am, I used the fuel pump from a late 80's ford F150 pickup. They had 302/351 engines. They come with a nice mounting bracket.
Mark.
It was simple to install and easy to get at should I need to change it. About the only thing I do not know, is if the pump has capacity for the high rpm use. I have doubts since I have not measured it, but I have never felt any problems.
Whatever pump you get, make sure it has ample capacity.
Being the cheapo guy that I am, I used the fuel pump from a late 80's ford F150 pickup. They had 302/351 engines. They come with a nice mounting bracket.
Mark.
A lot depends on the climate too. The gas tank also cools the pumps. I used a large aftermarket external, used a voltage reducer, and drove it during 90's and 100's. It was definitely louder than when cool. I bypass the reducer, with a cabin switch, for WOT.
i did a tpi swap too, you do not need high pressure fuel line for the returnline only the line between the pump and fuel rail, as the line behind it is sucktion not pushing to the rail. if you have no return line you can get a kit from summit or jegs where you run a rubber (id use hardline) line to the fuel inlet tube(where you stick the gas station pump when refueling) pretty cheap and easy. if your doing it into an f body,then i say swap in a tank from an injected car pump and all, and just run a wire from the fuel pump relay to the tank.
i say this b/c if you use an inline pump and dont get it it a low enough position, then when your low on fuel and it sloshes around when your driving, the pickup may go dry and your engine may stutter or stall. also, if you run out of gas its a pain because most inline pumps are designed to push fuel not suck, so you may burn out the pump by running it dry, or at the very least have a pain getting the engine started again.
[This message has been edited by 442guy (edited February 11, 2001).]
i say this b/c if you use an inline pump and dont get it it a low enough position, then when your low on fuel and it sloshes around when your driving, the pickup may go dry and your engine may stutter or stall. also, if you run out of gas its a pain because most inline pumps are designed to push fuel not suck, so you may burn out the pump by running it dry, or at the very least have a pain getting the engine started again.
[This message has been edited by 442guy (edited February 11, 2001).]
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
theshackle
Tech / General Engine
4
Mar 5, 2017 06:37 PM
beachrodder
Tech / General Engine
7
Aug 25, 2015 08:05 AM
AkDrifted
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
6
Aug 17, 2015 07:45 PM





