Thanks in advance for any help. I have an 87 ta 305 tpi, the car was running like crap so checked the codes and came up with maf sensor & oxegen sensor, I have replaced them both with no change & codes are still there. I am not used to working on newer cars with all these sensors& computers, but it runs like it has a bad accelerator pump, won't idle& a real dead spot until you get to 3000 rpm

 

Check out the first code that shows up, fix that one, and the other should go away. If you replaced the maf, and are still getting a maf code, check for vacuum leaks, properly secured duct work, and also check the operation of the maf relays...... have fun now.

 

Not a flame, but your first mistake is trusting the computer. Everyone does this, its no biggie... just warning you in advance so if it ever throws another code, you dont go buying parts the dumb computer in the car is telling you to. Its just a general direction to head in, and then you get to do the actual work of figuring out what is really wrong.

If you dont have a voltmeter, you may as well go get one now. I have one I got from Radio Shack, cost me all of 15 bucks I believe...
With that, you will ground one end, and read the TPS sensor, which is on the passenger side of the throttle body. The way I do this is stick a pin in the blue wire going to the TPS, and read the voltage. It should be approx. .5v with the throttle closed, and should steadily increase to above 4V when the throttle is all the way open. Please do this with the key on and engine not running. If it doesnt increase voltage correctly, or if its reading really high (more than 1.5V) with the throttle closed, you will need a new TPS. Then you will need the voltmeter to set it to about .4-.6max with the throttle closed, and just make sure its over 4V with it open.

 

As a matter of fact, I just fixed a MAF code on my 85 IROC three days ago. I had a code 33, which means the MAF is reading too high. Your best bet is to disconnect the neg. battery cable to reset the ECM. Reconnect it and then start your car and let it run until the codes come back. If you know how to jump the terminals on the ALDL connector under the driver side dash, you can access the codes. Otherwise get your hands on a scanner. Next find yourself a schematic and diagnostic flow chart for the MAF and any other codes. Follow it exactly. I first found an open ground circuit at the computer, fixed that, then had to replace the MAF itself. Lucky I had one from a wreck I have. Replaced it and the car runs better than it had in two years. (Hadn't really had time to fix it, just had to baby it for a while!!). You are going to definately need a DVOM and a test light, and maybe even a home made fused jumper wire. GOOD LUCk!

 

I have a code 33 on mine too. I checked all wiring between the MAF, the computer, and the relays. Everything is OK and no grounds or open wires. Next I checked the voltage to the MAF and got 12V. Checked the signal voltage from the MAF and got 1.4V - 1.6V steady with no change regardless of airflow.
So assuming the MAF is bad I bought a new one and still got a code 33. I was lucky the guy at Auto Zone let me have the old one back.
So what gives, was the new sensor bad too, or am I missing something.
Another thing I noticed was that when I started the car and the SES light did not come on, the car would run as if it had no power at all and would not accelerate like it should.
Any ideas?

Never mind, got my answer on ther Electronics board.

[This message has been edited by Ozzy88GTA (edited April 16, 2001).]