I will do this once I wake up in the morning. I never did reset the fuel adaptives the night it was hesitating but I did the next day, maybe that's why there was a big improvement. I hate to mess with the settings since the timing is right 6 degrees and tps is .56 volts. After I adjust the idle do I need to adjust the tps? And do I adjust timing after all of this or before I adjust anything?

Setting base idle will not affect base timing. TPS may be changed and should be checked after idle is set. Remember, intake air leaks(vacuum leaks) are your main concern here. I think you must be getting unmetered air to cause a lean condition with the new injectors. Besure to check your O2 sensor if no leaks are found.

I never thought to ask. Is your car MAF or speed density? If its MAF, be sure that your air duct is not leaking between the TB and the MAF. Be sure that your PCV system is sealed as well.

Hey doc, it is MAF. I checked for vacuum leak using a vacuum gauge, throttle body cleaner and even propane gas and there are no leaks. The car is running just fine now, I think unplugging the battery really made the improvement to clear the fuel adaptives like you said. I know these bosch injectors are the stock 22lbs/hour but for a given pulse width they may differ in output volume slightly from the old mutel injectors except at full continuous flow. I did bring the pressure to 47 from 43.5 even though it was running fine on 43.5 to atomize the fuel a little better. I know I really need a scan tool to really see how I'm skewing the blm etc, I will get one soon. I did lower the base idle to about 500 and with the iac and timing feedback wire plugged back in it idles at about 600. I did recently replace the 700r4 with a t56 a few weeks ago and I heard that since the torque converter of the auto is different weight than the t56 flywheel I might have a slightly higher idle, is that true? By the way I think my cold start problem is fixed.

Youll have a higher idle with a manual trans. Even at idle, the TC places a small load on the engine. Im glad your engine is running better. Good news. If you ever get tired of shifting gears, Id be glad to take the T56 off your hands. Lol. How difficult was the swap for you?

Is 600rpm ok then? Maybe I forgot I will lose some torque from idle because I don't have a torque converter now and torque converter provides max torque multiplication from idle. Well the t56 swap I've had in my mind for 8 years, owned the car for 10, it was my first car. I researched everything I could about the swap. It took about 30ish hours. Everything fits right in, same drive shaft length. I used a dakota digital sgi-5c box for the speedometer. I need to put a little in-line 12v filter because sometimes the speedo jumps only when stopped at a light because of alternator noise and box goes into sleep mode when you stop. Once you start moving it's solid. The guy I bought the transmission says it's the 1993 t56 with the shorter first gear 2.97, but I think he's mistaken because it has the skip shift solenoid on it which was available only on 94's to 97.

I said Check/adjust.

That is a little misleading, I agree. You can check and adjust the TPS. You can't adjust the IAC. WHat I should have said was Check/adjust the minimum air setting and the TPS.

edit: By the way, glad you got it fixed.

Witha manual trans you can idle the motor wherever its comfortable for you. With an auto, the TC limits idle speed. As engine speed increases above 600 with the OE TC stall point of about 1,800RPM, the pull on the car's drivetrain becomes uncomfortable. And shifting from park to reverse becomes a little unsettling. With a manual trns this is a non issue. For a stock cam TPI, 600 is about right. If you ran a setup like mine, you'd probably want more like 800-900.

If I had to be picky the only thing that's bugging me is from 500-1000rpm it feels a little sluggish and wakes up from there.

500-1000 rpm is a little low for power production anyway. I wouldnt expect even a TPI to start pulling much below 1,200.

While I agree with you, it felt different (more torquey between 500-1000rpm) before the injector swap, but then again even though they are 22lbs/hr, they probably behave differently for a given pulse width when compared to the original Mutel's. I would think they would behave better because the Bosch III's really atomize...Everyone thanks for your help and support! It was greatly appreciated.

Glad to hear you've got it straightened out. One good suggestion is to buy a scanner. With this you can scan the IAC counts and tell if there is a vacuum leak that is causing problems. With a high idle and counts down to zero that's a sure sign of a leak. Useful for many other things too. I have an old Auto Xray XP240 that I use. Pulls codes, does a scan and freeze of sensors, memory for later recall, and does a real time readout of the various sensors. Probably have to find a used one these days, be pretty cheap though. Don't spend a lot of money on what they call code readers, no real help on the OBD1 cars as you can pull codes with a paperclip. This is the scanner I use, probably others out there just as good:

http://www.fuelinjection.com/autoxray.html

That's it I'm buying a scanner. I was thinking about the moates XtremeALDL for $80... http://www.moates.net/aldu1-and-cabl....html?cPath=64

Can someone recommend an affordable hand-held scanner for me? So far ASEdoc recommended a Snap-On MT2500 scanner going for over $400 on ebay. tom3 recommends Auto Xray XP240, not sure where to buy them though? Any more recommendations?

Can I use Equus 3120 or 3140 for live data?

The problem with the AX240 is the same problem with the MT2500. Neither has factory support as they are both discontinued. The advantage to the MT2500 is its proven durability. Thats why I recommend it so strongly. These machines have bee around since the 80s and they just dont die. The cable they use is the same cable used by the newer MODIS.

However, if youre looking for something less expensive thats not so obsolete, I would probably go with something PC based like the Xtreme ALDL. The only hardware youre buying is an interface cable. The rest of it is just software and it will allow much more flexability and upgradability. Most of the repair industry, including the OE is going PC based.

I figured if there was a basic hand-held that would provide live obd 1 sensor data that wasn't over $250 then I would go for it. I appreciate the suggestions though, I'll probably end up getting the Xtreme ALDL interface and using my laptop. Even if the car is running well, now I kind of want the scanner anyways just because I'm curious about the data.

hi i have a similar issue as tagta3, can you tell me where my timing connector is?

On the passenger side near the firewall, there is a single wire (brown wire), disconnect that before checking your timing.

thanks

ASE doc, I still get a little hesitation 500-1000rpm. I don't know if I should call it hesitation because it doesn't ping or stall, it is smooth, but it just doesn't feel like there's much torque in that range (500-1000), you think it's just in my head? Also after more driving I noticed when I'm coasting around 3000rpm (not that I do that normally, just testing things still) when I gradually push the throttle there is a point in the throttle that I get a sudden boost of acceleration, not entirely gradual like it should be. I don't know if it's just me entering the power-band or something else because it somewhat happens quick. I already tested the TPS and there are no sudden spikes in voltage, it is linear like it should be.

Almost sounds like the FPR vacuum line is temporarily collapsing?

OK guys, I could use your opinions again please. The hesitation is still there so I decided to do the following. With the car in neutral when I blip the throttle you can actually hear and see the engine hesitate for a second everyt ime I rev, but just the initial part of the rev.

I wanted to make sure that every injector was working while idling, so I unplugged each injector while it was running, one at a time, and the one that did not change the idle or exhaust note in any way would be the one malfunctioning. All the injectors checked out fine. Is that a valid way to check? (I don't think they should have a problem because the car has power after 1000rpm).

While I was doing this test I noticed a very slight ticking on the passenger side and everytime I rev it there is a single louder tick sound after the rpm's drop, it does it everytime. Why is there always just one louder tick after the rpm drops after I rev, is that a spark arc discharging somewhere after spark energy accumulates after the rev? I think I have a spark plug wire arcing somewhere, what do you guys think? It only hesitates like I said before between 500-1000rpm or just the first blip of throttle.

Try misting water at the plug wires in the dark to see if you have something out of the ordinary going on with the ignition. Sounds odd maybe, but you could easily have an erronious arc.

Also, check for play in the throttle shaft where it enters the TB by the butterfly on the DS. My 87 had a hesitation like you are experiencing because of this. If you find an issure there I recommend upgrading to a newer style TB with the progressive linkage (you have to swap the cable from the pedal to TB as well); much more linear power delivery for powersliding.

OK I had some old spark plug wires laying around and used those to test my theory and no change at all. I took out all the spark plugs and they look normal, maybe very slightly white colored, and I mean very little. There is oil around the threads of all 8 spark plugs but nothing on the electrodes itself.

Usually when a car hesitates from idle can also indicate incorrect timing. Even though it is at 6 degrees should I try playing with it. Some of my friends are telling me that 6 degrees may no longer apply with a high mileage engine (130k). The new plugs and wires, distributor cap, rotor, and msd ignition coil will be here on Monday. If replace those and there is still no change, what should my next move be? This is driving me nuts. It's like it's so simple but I just can't figure it out.

Sounds like the plugs are fine.

While you are rehabing the ignition you had might as well go for a new pickup coil and ignition module.

Could these be causing an issue only from idle? Could a CTS (coolant temp sensor) do this only at idle?

Can anyone please help me here I'm getting desperate. I replaced the spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil and it is still surging on me. To recap, say I start it from 2nd gear and the RPM is at 600 when I press the gas the car hesitates a lot until it gets to about 1000-1200rpm and clears up. This all happened after I replaced the injectors to Bosch III's. I checked the coolant temp sensor and it's reading 450ohms at about 130 degrees Fahrenheit, does that sound right? Can anyone please help me? If you want we can talk over phone too.

OK here's an update. I put the old injectors back in and the car is back to normal. I don't know why my car didn't agree with the Bosch III's but I'm glad she's back to normal.